john deere 1050 questions

johntom89 · May 7, 2019

i forgot to thank everyone taking their time to reply. means a lot guys thank you :drink:

beenthere · May 7, 2019

Good luck, but I'd use the Deere oil..

California · May 7, 2019

At least put down a tarp, so small parts that fall don't vanish.

Amazon reviews on Lucas products are favorable for both their hydraulic and motor oil stop-leak products. Haven't tried them myself.

TimberHole · May 7, 2019

Are we talking about the front spindles? I've done them on a 950. More than likely the spindle will have grooves and you will need to install a repair sleeve. I didn't like Hoyes sleeves as they would have required machining the hubs. I bought a thinner repair sleeve and it worked great. My spindles leaked like a screen door on a submarine before the repair and don't leak one drop now. I'll have to look at the book for the hydraulic oil that is called for.

Here are some p

johntom89 · May 8, 2019

timberhole i found a previous post you had about that particular sleeve. i take it i will simply have to measure the hub as it is, then the hole it enters the lower gear housing there? thatll be the way to determine which sleeve is needed? previous owner replaced the housing with a yanmar-colored one very recently and i initially figured he forgot to replace maybe a brass ring-type-bushing where that hub meets the lower gear housing which is what gave it the 1/16th or so of existing side to side play. but i am assuming this is very common which is why the companies offer wear sleeves?

TimberHole · May 8, 2019

The design of this spindle seems weird to me as the oil seals from housing to housing, as opposed to just sealing where the shafts exit their respective housings. As I recall, there is a bearing in the lower housing which supports the pinion gear. I don't recall a brass ring but I'm not looking at a parts manual. All the spacers are important as they establish the correct backlash in the gear train. The manual goes thru this in great detail. When I did mine I simply kept good track of the spacers and returned to the original condition. Here is a pic of the lower hub. The issue I had with the Hoye spindle sleeve is that the OD of the sleeve was larger than the hole in the lower hub, preventing the install of the lower hub unless the hole was enlarged.

As I recall there are two different seal applications. Some hubs use a single seal while others use two seals on each hub. You might need to take yours apart to figure out which you have.

With respect to the sleeve you'll want to measure but I'm guessing you'll need that same part number. That sleeve is designed to work on existing OD of 2.359 to 2.365. You'll need to cobble together driver but a pipe sleeve and a piece of wood or plate will suffice. I think I put a little pucky under the sleeve to prevent any seepage under the sleeve. Probably just used a bit of silicon but don't remember.

chriswheeler · May 8, 2019

Best advise I can give is all of the bearings and seals are not much of a cost issue compared to replacing drive gears. Damage in mine were caused by bearing fails and movement in the drive gear clearance. I re-set up the gear clearance and contact patterns during the assembly knowing it was likely if I lost anymore of the gears, I'd be cutting my own replacements, very hard to find replacements. The bearings that did cause the fail were less than $5 ea on ebay. Look by bearing # and not by John Deere part # and go to any local bearing supply. Change them all.
Chris

johntom89 · May 8, 2019

excellent, solid gold replies exactly what i was hoping for

i couldnt agree more on replacing all the bearings and seals at the same time. i will order everything i see on the parts schematic tomorrow hopefully, maybe tear into her her this weekend

outta curiosity timberhole what year is your model? mine is the 88" so i am assuming (which is dangerous at times i know) it is the new style

thank you everyone, theres nothing like the right people at the right time. as one stupid move is very costly...

one more question, do you run the lucas hub oil? what gear oil do you use? and is it the same in the axle housing?

TimberHole · May 8, 2019

johntom89 said:
excellent, solid gold replies exactly what i was hoping for

i couldnt agree more on replacing all the bearings and seals at the same time. i will order everything i see on the parts schematic tomorrow hopefully, maybe tear into her her this weekend

outta curiosity timberhole what year is your model? mine is the 88" so i am assuming (which is dangerous at times i know) it is the new style

thank you everyone, theres nothing like the right people at the right time. as one stupid move is very costly...

one more question, do you run the lucas hub oil? what gear oil do you use? and is it the same in the axle housing?

I do not run any any additives now that I have my leaks fixed. The axle housings and hub housings are really one big system as there is not an oil seal between them. The seals you are replacing prevent oil from hitting the ground but do not prevent oil from moving from the axle to the hub. I think there are separate fill plugs on the housings but that is just because it would take forever to move enough oil from the axle to the hubs to fill the hubs. At least that is the way I see the system. The correct oil is 90 weight. Even the Deere dealer was wrong on their recommendation for the oil. Below is a pic from the manual.

I have the manuals. If you send me a private message with your contact info I can send you copies if you need them. Hopefully your side play is just in your bearings and your housings are good. Probably be easy for a machine shop to repair the housings if necessary. You may need to adjust shims to get the correct backlash. The book goes thru all that.

Looks like I am smart enough to occasionally fix a tractor but not smart enough to take a picture as it is sideways. Oh well.

Edit: my tractor is a late 70s model. A 79 I think.

chriswheeler · May 8, 2019

timberhole brought up a point I forgot, the sealing sleve repair. He is right, mine were toasted just like his. I have a lathe and it wasn't much work to make my own and shrink them on fixing them with a new running surface. I just run JD 90 wt gear oil and after the repair, not a issue.
.it's running at a farm in Twin Falls Idaho now My "new to me" JD 970tlb runs the same 90 wt and it's just fine.
chris