John Deere 4100 Electrical Problem

[Blaneypark]

I have a JD4100 that while blowing snow will just quit. If I let it sit, sometimes it will start. I'm thinking maybe it is in the key switch. Any Ideas out there.

 

[DFB]

Thats not much to go on could be a safety interlock switch problem pto or seat or even a battery cable. Is it a gear or hydro? So after it stops what happens...do you have dash lights headlight etc? Does the starter turn over?

 

[Blaneypark]

After it stops I have nothing. No lights, heater fan, nothing. Everything is dead. Went out after it sat an hour and it started right up. It is hydro drive. Just cleaned the battary cables last week and they are tight.

 

[DFB]

Ahh thats a much clearer picture. On a 4100 the power goes from the battery to starter first then thru fuseable link to key switch. That starter connection may be loose. Also on that side (left) is a frame ground wire. Good place to start looking. Check battery to ground too

Key switches can be continuity checked if it came to that I have circuit diagram

When key is turned to start 12v power runs to starter relay (in conjuction with the control module) and back to the starter solenoid

 

[Blaneypark]

I have jiggled wires on the left side of the engine and sometimes it will start. I talked with a JD Dealer a few years back and I remember him saying something about the wireing being a fuseable(???) wire that can go bad. I'm up to my ***** in snow in Northern Mi. but in the morning will check check and clean all the connections you mentioned. Thanks.

 

[DFB]

Certainly sounds like a poor connection in the starter circuit

 

[Blaneypark]

I cleaned every connection I could find. Ran it for 5 hours and no problems. Time will tell.

 

[DFB]

Good! My 4100 is a 1999 model year and unbelievably I am still using the original battery. Just as an FYI for 4100 owners thinking back I remember once I had a battery charging issue and it turned out to be that one of the oem bandstyle battery cable clamps (negative cable) had a crack in it that was hard to see and no matter how much I tightened the bolt it didnt hold a good connection.

 

[RitchElbe]

continued with another wiring issue. Installed basic Halogen flood lights on the ROPEs. Which ground through the frame. under the seat, there are two pairs of wires in the bundle with the wiring for the flashers. These are simply one black , one white. Each set of wire bundles. Before I simply connected the hot to the white lead of one of the bundles and I had power. Some punk from the trailer park shot those lights out, hence the new ones. This are working great. Wind picks up, just as I step back to prepare the shrink rap..hot lead comes loose from the white, the would be ground from the lights swings over in the wind and touches the white hot lead. The main head lights dimmed for a nano second and now I have no power on either of the white hot leads. I tested the new wiring to the lights via a battery I had lying around and they are still working. I checked the 4 fuses under the hood and they are good....any thoughts?

 

[Towmater]

I have a JD4100 that while blowing snow will just quit. If I let it sit, sometimes it will start. I'm thinking maybe it is in the key switch. Any Ideas out there.

Check out my thread.... 4100 charging problem. Mine would quit while running and drain the battery. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2610574.

 

[RitchElbe]

enroute thanks

 

[Towmater]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2610574

 

[RitchElbe]

ok checked the threads... the mention of unplugging and replugging a relay..got the old cogs grinding...seems when I hooked the original set of works back in 2002...something similar happened...disconnected the battery to check the terminals..and it worked.. will be braving the winds in abit to try that idea out..soon as Walking Dead is done
LOL

 

[RitchElbe]

so for the past hour, I disconnected the battery, un-plugged/plugged in every relay and check for any other fuses other than the main 4. Everything is working as it should...except for power to the black and white wires that branch off from the bundle that feeds the flasher/caution lights. Yet, the work as they should.
hmmm

 

[Towmater]

I could be wrong but those wires might only be hot when you have the switch turned to run the headlights only. I believe the thought process their is so you are not running work lights off the back while going down the road. Again, I could be wrong but I recently ordered LED lights to hook up and I know when I tested the wires that's what I found.

 

[RitchElbe]

You're correct. They only had power when the lights switch was on. Which is how I would use them. But now no power, yet the switch still works as it should. I'm curious is there's a hidden fuse somewhere

 

[RitchElbe]

Oh Dear Lord...I just made the mistake of actually calling John Deere...20 mins of them constantly saying...we can redirect you to a local deal or another dealer with your issue...local dealer looked like a lost cause when I described the issue, next one is an hour away...both have about a 3 weeks back log working on equipment....grrrrrrrrrr John Deere..what the heck happened to your company!

 

[DFB]

Well my tractor powers up like this...key switch needs to be turned to on position, then light switch is off 2) flashers only 3)work pos. headlight/rearlights 4)road pos. headlights only and flashers. No xtra fuses that I know of. Make sure your add on light wires aren't reversed connected. I've had a few add on lights that the wire colors were not what I THOUGHT they be. In my photo the blue spade connectors are power taps for my worklights and the lights are grounded to the ROPS using the flasher mounting bolts.

 

[RitchElbe]

DFB: check my original post, I had it wired correctly, I've ran work lights on it for years, but had to replace due to neighborhood brat and a BB Gun.. so when the main lights turned on..so did the work likes on the ropes. the problem arose when the wind blew a good gust..which shook the wires enough that they pulled apart. The secondary line which ran to the ground..caught the hot lead..that's when all the lights dimmed for a nano second..now nothing comes of the hot lead..yet...the 30amp fuse that I am told controls the lights on the fuse rack mounted next to engine on the right firewall is fine. Everything works ( well the glow plug issue still remains from years ago ) but no power to those two hot leads...which makes no sense..if power was lost...and there are no other fuses....then it should have killed the rest of the lights as well

 

[DFB]

Fuses should be (2) 10A, (1) 15A, and (1) 20A.

According to the book

Glowplug/Starter 10A
Accessories 10A
Flasher/Warning Lamps 15A
Headlight/Taillight Lamps 20A

Good Luck