John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair

   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Ok, so it appears i made it almost 9 years before, it's gotten bad again. Last time I had adjusted the clutch pedal out to spec. Still grinding gears. Split the cases and ordered a set of shims to adjust the clutch brake and clutch pack. Phoned a guy, who took it upon himself to come over and assist. He showed me how the clutch brake worked and how to test it. Put it back together and it seemed to work well for the better part of 7 years. Very little grinding and now it is almost unusable being able to shift with out coming to a complete stop and waiting with the clutch pedal depressed for over 15 seconds and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Most times need to put in forward motion a couple of feet which seems to help line everything up and wait for about 5 seconds and it will slip in reverse. So it appears need to open the case again, adjust or replace the brake on the clutch and reshim and see what happens.

What ya think, is the clutch brake my big culprit, all along?
 
   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair #22  
Yeah, 9 years since I saw/posted this thread.

I have never been inside a Deere with synchronized gears, tho I have rebuilt auto manual gearboxes with them. I do not know how the "clutch brake" you describe works. I gather your foot pedal mechanically engages/releases a wet multi-plate clutch?

And here is another wrinkle I recently discovered: JDParts.com has changed and I can no longer get any prices quoted, no matter which dealer I link it to. That may be well-known to frequent JD parts buyers.
 
   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair
  • Thread Starter
#23  
dfkrug,
yep, 9 years since i saw your very detailed lengthy post, i gotta go back and review your post about how to get the diff lock working again. I don't have synchronized gears, i have the collar shift trans. So, complete stop, then shifty. The clutch pedal does work as described by engaging and releasing easily, no slip or herky jerky on take off or under load. The big problme is literally shifting, sometimes it will slip right in to the next and then sometimes it won't go into any, which is why i think it is the brake or snubber plate, i think is what they are calling it. Thanks for the reply like usual.

Yep, i noticed the same thing, unable to get a parts price, call dealer. On top of my shifting problem, most of the plastic panels over the engine, which is almost all of them, have broken, split, fell apart. I'm running all naked in the yard, poor tractor. So, probably shouldn't buy plastic tractor. Gotta find replacement panels now.
 
   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair #24  
Gotta find replacement panels now.

More JD dealers are posting green plastic panels on eBay, and prices have actually dropped. This applies to their tractors, riding mowers, and Gators as well.
 
   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I see there are a bunch of Aftermarket panels, I only see a handful of different panels that are actually OEM. Does anybody have experience with any of the aftermarket plastic panels for fit and durability?-
 
   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair #26  
I see there are a bunch of Aftermarket panels, I only see a handful of different panels that are actually OEM. Does anybody have experience with any of the aftermarket plastic panels for fit and durability?-

My Dad has the aftermarket panels on a 425. They fit fine. They do not have the JD stickers so you can tell the cheap plastic hood broke and has been replaced.

I have looked at getting aftermarket plastic for my GT235 but I keep glueing and screwing the cheap hood together for on more year.

My next mower will be like my tractor it will have a steel hood.
 
   / John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair #27  
They do not have the JD stickers so you can tell the cheap plastic hood broke and has been replaced.

I have looked at getting aftermarket plastic for my GT235 but I keep glueing and screwing the cheap hood together for on more year.

My next mower will be like my tractor it will have a steel hood.
The panels can be glued to a backer, as I showed in my 4300 rebuild thread. They can also be polished to remove the faded look. The labels are not that expensive from JD, and really make the tractor look good after replacing body panels.

I prefer steel body panels myself, but they can rust, esp in an environment with lots of fertilizer or livestock effluent.
 

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