John Deere 4230 Problems

[johndeerelover4230]

So lately our 1974 quad range 4230 has had some problems going uphill while on the road. What it does is when I am going up hill then suddenly, it starts slowing down until you shift it into the C or B range. I have asked arounnd, and nobody else knows what is happening. I hope we can figure this out before we start planting.

 

[tow653]

Sounds like clutch!

 

[jd110]

When you say it slows down, do you mean the engine bogs down, or does engine stay at same speed with ground speed slowing down?If only ground speed slowing down, then clutch is slipping or Hi-Lo is slipping. If engine is bogging down, then you may have a fuel problem or the engine may be misfiring under load due to a bad injector, low compression, etc.

 

[johndeerelover4230]

The engine stays the same speed, but the ground speed slows. Thanks for the help.

 

[Tx Jim]

Either the traction clutch or the hyd hi-lo is slipping. Does it slow down in both high & low speed of the 2 speed? I'd suggest checking traction clutch pressure. It should be around 165 psi.

 

[bound2needhelp]

I have a 4230 with the following and it is doing the same thing. Sorry for jumping in here but I'm new and beg foregiveness
Transmission: John Deere Powershift
Type: full power shift
Gears: 8 forward and 4 reverse

 

[beenthere]

No "foregiveness" needed around here. :welcome: to TBN

Re-hash just what you are having happen, in your words and when the problem developed, as it developed.

 

[bound2needhelp]

The warmer my tractor gets the more slippage I get. I will be pulling either my 16' Hydro-swing or round baler on normally level ground and especially if I shift to 4th gear or higher while the engine speed remains the same the tractor will slow until it would otherwise stop. Most of the time reducing the RPM's will enable me to stay in that gear and the slippage stops as the transmission engages. Often I must move to a lower gear, lower RPM and then synchronize my move to a higher gear with an RPM reduction until it grabs and then it behaves normally.

As a note: I have what appears to be a small hole in the bottom of the transmission housing and I get a relatively steady steam like jet that exhausts from their..
Since I have repaired the main hydraulic pump (under the radiator) and rebuilt the 2 of the 3 hydraulic valves (quick couplers) on the rear and replaced the seal on the PTO shaft (thingy) I have reduced my hydraulic leaks to almost nil and my hydraulic reservoir remains within the safe range

 

[Tx Jim]

bound2needhelp
Welcome to TBN.
Powershift trans needs to be tested with gauges in each gear to properly diagnose malfunction. Also another possibility is a slipping damper clutch in engine flywheel. How long since hyd filters were changed & sump screen checked/cleaned?

 

[bound2needhelp]

I changed the 2 filters about 2 years ago. At that time I was going through hydraulic fluid at an alarming rate because of all the leaks in the pump and selective control valves. I have never checked the sump screen and I am not sure where to check.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sump screen is located between rear hyd filter cap & rear axle housing. No more that those hyd filter cost I think I'd change them if it were my tractor.
AR75603 Filter Element - ELEMENT,OIL FILTER ADD 8.20 USD

 

[buickanddeere]

On a different topic . Is the engine slow to crank and a lousy winter starter ?

 

[bound2needhelp]

True, it is a very cheap way to eliminate a potential source. I'll look for the sump screen tonight.

 

[bound2needhelp]

Somewhat slow but I swapped out the 2 6volts and put in 2- 12 volt batteries and that made life a lot better. I always have to use starter fluid in the winter. I have in the last month added fuel system cleaner during refueling to try to make sure my injectors were clean. This tractor has always been a pig about starting until I did that. compared to what it was I feel like I have a new beast.
If the tractor has sat for a few days I can expect 10-15 seconds of cranking before it starts

 

[Tx Jim]

True, it is a very cheap way to eliminate a potential source. I'll look for the sump screen tonight.

To inspect sump screen either oil needs to be drained or insert the nozzle of an operating shop vac into hyd filler hole to create a vacuum to limit oil draining out.

 

[buickanddeere]

Somewhat slow but I swapped out the 2 6volts and put in 2- 12 volt batteries and that made life a lot better. I always have to use starter fluid in the winter. I have in the last month added fuel system cleaner during refueling to try to make sure my injectors were clean. This tractor has always been a pig about starting until I did that. compared to what it was I feel like I have a new beast.
If the tractor has sat for a few days I can expect 10-15 seconds of cranking before it starts

Ground the battery cable under a start mounting bolt instead of on that crusty stud on the right side of the engine block . It makes a world of difference .
I would use a hydraulic pump destroker and a block heater before hammering the engine with ether .

 

[bound2needhelp]

I do have the battery grounded to one of starter bolts. I am hoping things will be better this winter since using the fuel system cleaner and when it is below zero I do plug it in. I have an engine block heater and an inline water heater ( not so eloquently said)
the 2-12 volts have made a significant difference to the cranking quality

 

[buickanddeere]

I do have the battery grounded to one of starter bolts. I am hoping things will be better this winter since using the fuel system cleaner and when it is below zero I do plug it in. I have an engine block heater and an inline water heater ( not so eloquently said)
the 2-12 volts have made a significant difference to the cranking quality

Looks like you have it well covered. You are three steps ahead of the usual operator.