Buying Advice John Deere compact choices

   / John Deere compact choices #21  
My loader is on 99.999 percent of the time the .001 percent was when I took it off just to see how it dismounts and reattaches.

BUT just like many other tools that have functions that I don't use a lot or rarely at all I wouldn't buy a new tractor without a quick disconnect loader, just like the tools when they are needed nothing else will really do the job right without a lot of extra work and when the job pops up that needs the loader off it will be a godsend to be able to remove it for sure.
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#22  
Thank you Paulfun9, really good point. Trouble is the likely purchase price reaching heights that are becoming hard to justify and may be a trade-off between price/Tractor size and functionality/convenience:-(......
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#23  
Cheers DK35vince, Yes, yourself and others re-introducing the 'Permanent'/Removable FEL debate in my head:), if price was no concern and ultimate feedback on the 4000 series as good as the advertising, then a 4000R probably where I would go but sadly the price hard to justify for basically property maintenance/recovery and maybe some hobby 'farming', however the internal debate still raging so all the feedback really welcome:).....
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#24  
Cheers Nickdfish, Just bucket (as opposed to whole FEL) removal sounds like it could be a compromise solution for situations where manoeuvring space is tight. See you have or had a 3038E are/were you happy with it? Any build quality issues. Any FEL issues with hydraulics i.e. bucked not holding its angle necessitating re-positioning.
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#25  
Vince has it right about removing the FEL for certain chores. By taking the loader off, it relieves the front axle from carrying several hundred extra pounds on a typical mid-sized compact, which makes a noticeable difference when mowing, operating a tiller, etc., and puts less wear on the front end. Everyone's experience differs, of course, but about half of my work benefits from having the loader removed. Easy enough job removing it with most modern tractors.

Thanks Grandad4 and apologies to all as I should really have been selecting 'reply with quote' to most posts, far easier to follow....Ideally I will opt for a unit that has a quick FEL release option, I would much prefer it but will probably be restrained ultimately by cost. As you say FEL's generally removable without the quick release design but personally suspect i would find it too much of a chore without the quick release.
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#26  
In the 28 yrs I owned the 750, I never took the fel off but I did not cut grass or rototill with it. I did negotiate some very tight spaces in the woods with little problem and was always glad it was on there.You are exactly right about "use". I mostly log and plow snow with mine. Of course I went to look at the Deeres first and was shocked to find that the 3032-38 series Deere's were mostly a lot of plastic including the floor boards. I was concerned that these would get wrecked in the woods and thought my old 750 was a much better built tractor. If I could, I thought the 770-790 or what they then called 3005 was a better choice for me for how I use a tractor. I then went to the JD 3320 and loved this tractor. With my trade, the JD dealership was 10 grand off what the Mahindra dealership was offering me so I settled for the Mahindra geared 3016. This has been a very useful tractor so far and the grandkids also seem to like it as much as the green one I used to have.

Thanks again Arrow, re Grandchildren, terrific piccie, bet they have a lot of fun. My only grandchild to date loves the ride-on mower but will I suspect be even more impressed with the tractor, if that is I can ever make a decision!! I'm a bit tied with make of tractor as there is a large JD dealership close to our France property (was leaning towards JD anyway) although I have since discovered there is a New Holland dealership close by as well.
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#27  
I've never had my FEL off, either. More often than not, if I am using the tractor, I am using the FEL.

Novice Brit - Keep in mind you can also use the FEL to get yourself unstuck, should you venture into some marshy land.

Cheers Mike, I will probably require the FEL for less than 25% of the time but good to know I don't really need to worry if I don't/can't remove it and good point re marshy land, I do have some very wet areas around the lake in the winter, I'll ensure the FEL is on whenever I go near 'em!
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#28  
I remove my 3320 FEL all the time. It takes less then 5 minutes! It makes the tractor easier to use when cutting the lawn, or using things off the rear PTO. It took a few times to get use to it, but it is very simple.

Cheers JB, I'll ensure that if the FEL isn't one of the quick release variety, i at least can get it off myself if necessary......
 
   / John Deere compact choices
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#29  
Different strokes for different folks, that is a fact. I have never had the loader off of the 32hp machine and yet I hate to have the loader on the 75hp machine when doing field work. It really does make a HUGE difference with just exactly what you are doing with the machine at any particular time.

Just my :2cents:

Thanks, suspect I will end up removing the FEL more often if I opt for a tractor with quick release and very rarely if without, knowing me it will take a lot longer than for the majority of users, i'm a bit of a 'dreamer' and not the most practical!
 
   / John Deere compact choices #30  
skim read the thread.

the lake, uneven / hilliness of property, and woods, is the big concern stuff.

skidding out trees that you have dropped, is about only thing that is going to push you, for wanting a bigger tractor. bigger tractor being 4wd, MFWD, or like, more weight (weight is king in tractor stuff majorty of the time (more the better)), more lifting capacity, larger engine.

due to you tasks most likely involved, will be a lot of forward/backward motion along with changing of speeds, a HST (hydro-static transmission) most likely better for you, and all the multi tasks.

FEL, most likely a requirement for you, and not optional,

going to suggest a TNT (top and tilt) setup for your tractor, at bare min, replacing the top link on 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder. if you have spare cash, then maybe also replacing 1 or both side links on the 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder.

2 rear hyd remotes min, 3, if you go with both top link and 1 or 2 side links for a TNT setup. this should give you enough for what ever 3pt hitch attachment you end up getting / using.

check chains / sway chains, swinging draw bar, for 3pt area of tractor, most likely an other requirement and not optional for you. for various tasks the tractor will see.

left/right rear steering brakes (separate pedals for left/right rear wheels) = a requirement, and be on opposite foot than the gas/hst pedal/s a lot of maneuvering and FEL work, and may be only way to keep the machine under control and be able to steer the machine.

with woods, there is a good chance you may get a "12v electrical winch" for tractor. in that case, if they give an option for a bigger "alternator" get it.

for extra weight, and help stabilize the tractor hills, fill rear tires with a fluid, then double check manual to see if recommends filling front tires or not ((it differs from every make/model out there))

if the rims allow for it, have tires swapped around, to obtain a "wider stance" for the tractor. for extra stability on hills.

having a differential lock (able to lock rear tires together), can be nice getting your rear unstuck at times. not a requirement but nice to have, 4WD, and FEL, and split rear brakes, goes a long ways, but at times, it is easier to tap the differential lock. and up and out of the mud hopefully.

if you have an option for "power revers-er" for the transmission, same speed forward/backward. it can be a nice thing to have, have ran backwards a lot (less time vs turning around a couple times, to do what i am doing on longer runs)

3pt hitch, quick attack, pats easy hitch, telescopic lower lift arms, get one of them, i am favor of telescopic lower lift arms. the other two puts things a few inches further out behind tractor, and reduces over all lift capacity of the 3pt hitch.

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a lot of above is tractor specific stuff, that can be cheaper bought up front and at same time as tractor. vs saving and DIY or paying someone later down the road to add to tractor.

the one thing i did not mention was a 3pt hitch backhoe with a sub frame. this tends to be a high ticket item. if you want one, get it at same time as tractor, you more likely get a bigger discount this way. backhoes are nice for trenching, stump removal, ((biggest things seen here on TBN)), but have used mine to get myself unstuck, loading odd objects into back of a pickup truck vs using FEL, carrying some extra dirt in backhoe bucket and in FEL. ((needing to drive clear across property from were i am getting dirt, and needing to place it)). putting in metal T posts, removing old fence posts. and few other things i done already forgot about.

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my guess something in the 25HP to 35HP range for tractor engine size, make sure tractor is not an over size riding lawn mower... there is a grayish line between, riding lawn mower frame, vs a larger heavier frame, and more ground clearance under tractor. you will want the bigger heavier frame most likely. due to mud/snow, and everything the tractor will most likely be seeing.

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i realize you are wanting tractor specific info. and crunching it down to final choices... but this is more food for thought, and making sure you have things covered, and understand various compromises, you will most likely make, in getting something you want / need for your property.
 

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