I just picked up this corn planter and was wondering what model it is? I stopped at my local john deere dealer, but all the people with any knowledge were gone. They let my look through their books and I think it might be a 246. Can anyone confirm this by the pictures? Also is it difficult to find parts or a manual? I don't know anything about corn planters, but wanted one to plant some sweet corn. I will probably get a fertilzer spreader instead of fixing the fertilizer system. I'm sure that would be costly.
Planters John deere corn planter - what model?
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twarr1
Bronze Member
I'm not familiar with this model, but there are many very knowledgeable memnbers and I'm sure someone can ID your planter.
I'm just finishing up a rebuild of a John Deere 23R corn and cotton planter. Deere's parts site was very helpful...
John Deere - Parts Catalog
I've found that most of the parts are still available for old JD planters, if you can find someone willing to trace through the part number changes that have occured through the years.
I'm just finishing up a rebuild of a John Deere 23R corn and cotton planter. Deere's parts site was very helpful...
John Deere - Parts Catalog
I've found that most of the parts are still available for old JD planters, if you can find someone willing to trace through the part number changes that have occured through the years.
twarr1
Bronze Member
....by the way, some of the parts from Deere for my planter were very reasonable, some were a little expensive and a few were unbelieveably, extrordinarily expensive.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
246/247......
That is a model 246. I have used one for the last 20 years or so for small foodplots (1-2) acres in size and a couple acres of sweetcorn every year. Mine still has functioning fertilizer applicators which make it far superior to the cut down, 2-row model 71's that are so common these days for planting/fertilizing small areas. To get the same effect from broadcast fertilizer you have to apply nearly twice as much, which aint cheap. Unfortunately, it is difficult to locate fertilizer parts for these. Many but not all are the same as the pull-type model 290's which are a little easier to find because they were produced in greater numbers. I thought I could use the lower disk-wheel assembly from a 290 on my 246 but found out they were not the same so I had to fabricate the assembly when I rebuilt mine this spring. The planter shoes were the same however between the two models and those I took off the 290 were in great shape. It looks like the shoes on yours are worn down pretty good, but i bet you could get new ones from a JD dealer. The seed plates on your 246 are the same as those on 71's and can still be purchased new.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
A little bit more info....You'll need to determine whether that's a hill drop planter or drill type planter. The drill type is a 246, the hill drop is a 247. Put a few seeds in the seed cans, raise the planter and slowly spin the press wheel(s). Do seeds drop individually, one at a time, or several (3 or 4) at once? (several at once would be a hill drop...247) Visually, the difference is VERY difficult to determine. The difference will effect what parts you'll need (from Deere) In the late 50's, hill drop planters were still very popular. A large portion of the 246/247's were equipped as 247's, especially so in the south.
Those were the best 2-row planter Deere offered in their day. (50's and early 60's) THey have to be kept at reasonably slow planting speeds compared to later "unit planters" (such as #70's, #71's ect) Also, shoe type openers work OK in some conditions and not so ok in others. Later planters used disc openers more commonly. Disc openers were available for the 246/247's, but not all that common. I started off years ago with a 246 equipped with disc openers, row markers, fertilizer box, and insecticide applicators. The poor thing was a miriad of chains, sprockets, and idler pulleys! In the mid 70's I made the switch to the #71's to reduce set-up time, increase planting speed, and increase my crop yields.
The #71's will plant circles around most plate type planters, so many prefer them. (Better, more accurate seed placement, higher planting speeds, better in rough conditions, ect...) They weren't commonly equipped with fertilizer attachments. The solution for them is to install a liquid fert. application system. I did so on my 4-row #71 rig. Cheaper than dry fertilizer in the long run, easier to deal with, and the fertilizer unit itself will be FAR less trouble to maintain. You could very easily install a simular system if parts availability isn't up to par on the 246/247 dry system.
With the exception of some VERY early Deere plate planters, all Deeres will use what is known as a "type B" plate. They're all over EBAY. You can also find them NEW at Lincoln Ag. Older OEM Deere plates are usually cast iron. Newer ones supplied by seed corn companies and now from Lincoln Ag are all "Lustran" plastic. Either will work just fine.
Those were the best 2-row planter Deere offered in their day. (50's and early 60's) THey have to be kept at reasonably slow planting speeds compared to later "unit planters" (such as #70's, #71's ect) Also, shoe type openers work OK in some conditions and not so ok in others. Later planters used disc openers more commonly. Disc openers were available for the 246/247's, but not all that common. I started off years ago with a 246 equipped with disc openers, row markers, fertilizer box, and insecticide applicators. The poor thing was a miriad of chains, sprockets, and idler pulleys! In the mid 70's I made the switch to the #71's to reduce set-up time, increase planting speed, and increase my crop yields.
The #71's will plant circles around most plate type planters, so many prefer them. (Better, more accurate seed placement, higher planting speeds, better in rough conditions, ect...) They weren't commonly equipped with fertilizer attachments. The solution for them is to install a liquid fert. application system. I did so on my 4-row #71 rig. Cheaper than dry fertilizer in the long run, easier to deal with, and the fertilizer unit itself will be FAR less trouble to maintain. You could very easily install a simular system if parts availability isn't up to par on the 246/247 dry system.
With the exception of some VERY early Deere plate planters, all Deeres will use what is known as a "type B" plate. They're all over EBAY. You can also find them NEW at Lincoln Ag. Older OEM Deere plates are usually cast iron. Newer ones supplied by seed corn companies and now from Lincoln Ag are all "Lustran" plastic. Either will work just fine.
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Usually it is not worth dealing with liquid fertilizer for the small acreages that a 2-row planter works best for. This, in my opinion, makes a dry fertilizer-equipped 246 better than a 71 for foodplots, sweetcorn patches and such. A 71 will give you better seed placement, depth control etc, but you can do ok in those areas with a 246. A 71 would certainly be considerably better than the 246 in that picture however because that one dont have working fertilizer attachments. It probably would not be very difficult to locate the required parts to get starter fertilizer down with that 246. It looks like it is just missing the spinner and bucket on one side, but the base in addition to those parts on the other. The lower assemblies with disk wheels (different on 246's and 290's) look like they are both there. All the parts you are missing are shared with the 290/490 pull-type models and you may be able to locate them. FWJ, did you use your restored, older MF planter with dry fert attachment this year, or did you use the 71 with liquid? How did it work? My corn came up a lot better this year since I replaced the shoes on my 246. Because of that, tons of rain this year, and higher fert application due to cheaper prices this spring, my corn yield looks like it will be about the highest I have ever had on my farm since going semi-organic. It will probably go 125 bu/acre or so which aint too bad for 36" rows, cultivated and useing no herbicides. I have (13) acres of fieldcorn (to kill deer in and around) and (2) of sweetcorn this year.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
I won't even fool with dry fertilizer while planting, even for my garden. Just too much trouble cleaning out hoppers and such when liquid is SO MUCH easier, ESPECIALLY when doing just a small plot. Simply flush with a garden hose, let dry, and put it up for the year. All the parts to the liquid fertilizer system are plastic or stainless steel. Less wear and tear on painted parts, less salts to corrode metal, and you don't have to worry about keeping liquid dry in humid or rainy weather as with dry. For small plantings, I've been known to mix up a batch of plain ol' Miracle Grow plant food and water. For bigger fields, it's a LOT easier, especially if there's just one man doing the planting, to transfer liquid via a small 12v electric pump, vs toting bags or shoveling bulk fert. into a hopper.
On the MF#39, I haven't used a dry fertilizer attachment in ages. (Just too much work when there's a better AND easier way, IMHO.) All it plants is pop corn and green beans. The beans don't get fertilizer and the pop corn gets side dressed after it's up past 3rd leaf stage. All my sweet corn, and the roughly 200 acres of feed corn we planted at my sons was done with the #71 and liquid.
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You are right about the hopper cleaning. Lots of folks skip that step which is why you see so many 246/247/290's without fert attachments. I take about 10 minutes to take it apart and hose it out good after each use, and let it dry out in the sun before putting it back in the barn. That still didnt keep a lower assembly from rotting completely this spring, forcing me to fabricate a new one. Unfortunately that part is different on the 290 that I had back in the hedgerow for parts. Other than the wore-out shoes I also replaced this spring, that is the extent of the problems I have had in 20 years with this 50 year old planter.
The only other maintenence I have given it is a few shots of grease in each fitting and a little 90 wt on the chains prior to use the first time each spring. I leave it right on my Ford 8n and use it about every 10 days from May 15 to July 5 or so to space out when the sweetcorn gets ripe. This is, without a doubt, one of my favorite farming tools. JD made some good stuff back then. I wont talk about my other favorite from that era as I know FWJ is none to fond of that.
The only other maintenence I have given it is a few shots of grease in each fitting and a little 90 wt on the chains prior to use the first time each spring. I leave it right on my Ford 8n and use it about every 10 days from May 15 to July 5 or so to space out when the sweetcorn gets ripe. This is, without a doubt, one of my favorite farming tools. JD made some good stuff back then. I wont talk about my other favorite from that era as I know FWJ is none to fond of that.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Actually, I'm quite "fond" of the old stuff from the old days. I wouldn't want to attempt to do any more REAL farming with much of it, but that stuff is fun to toy around with.
I really dont know anything about corn planters. I placed an on-line ad looking for an inexpensve corn planter that works. Someone replied that they had one that was free - just get it out of his barn. So for the price, I figured it was worth taking.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
What you got is a real BARGAIN! You could easily sell that for $200 to $300 at the right time of the year. Spend a few pesos and it COULD be worth 3 or 4 times that amount!
It is really unbelievable how much them things go for since the explosive growth of corn as a food plot for deer in the last couple years. After I got done stripping all the parts I could use for my 246 off from my old 290, I put it on craigslist this spring around May 10 for $150. I must have got 50 calls on it, many folks saying they would have paid 2-3 times that. Considering it was a pull-type which are considerably less in demand, had completely wore out shoes, no fertilizer attachments, and the lift mechanism was not working, I thought my asking price was ok. I learned later that I should have started a lot higher. The buyer was pleased as heck with the deal he got. Around early May next spring, you might be able to sell that one as is for $500, $750 if it works, and $1200 or so if you find the missing fertilizer parts and paint it up. No brand planters sell better than JD, especially in early May.
Where would you find a liquid fertilzer system? Do they mount on the planter some way?
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
You have to assemble whatever "system" you choose to install. I bought all the components through SHOUP. I use a 12v squeeze pump, a 60 gallon plastic tank, and "knives", along with various petcocks, plastic tubing, ect. I know of a couple folks who use a much smaller tank as they don't plant that large of an area. 60 gallons works well with my 4-row Deere #71 planter. When ever I get around to it, I'm going to rig a liquid system for the 2-row Deere #70 unit planter I have. My 2-row MF #39 planter has dry fertilizer capabilities, but I never use it with fert.
Yes, I have 3 planters.....NO, I have no reason for such.......
How hard is it to get the liquid fertilizer, is it a lot cheaper than dry, and where can you buy it? One thing I like about the dry is I can get it almost anywhere. My sister manages a garden store and often gives me leftover lawn fertilizer which works real good on my corn. I have also found 50 lb bags of 10-10-10 for less than $5.00 each at Home Depot on occasion when they have excess stock or broken bags, etc. Dry fertilizer sure is convenient, which makes a 2-row 246 that can deliver it a much better than a 2-row 71 which can not for the guy just doing small acreages. One thing to look out for on the 71's are the folks of questionable charactor who try and pass off insecticide hoppers as fertilizer applicators. These units have niether the capacity nor the corrosion resistance to be usefull for that purpose. If it is smaller than the seed hopper, it is NOT for fertilizer. Do not be fooled by these folks. It is real easy to take advantage of city folks with deep pockets who buy stuff to feed deer.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
How hard is it to buy liquid fertilizer? NOT hard at all. In fact, it's no harder than granular. Ever been to a Tractor Supply store? Ever been to ANY farm supply or co-op? If not, ever hear of Miracle Grow....? (They even have that at garden shops and Home Depot
)I gave up on my 246 near 40 years ago after ONE planting with the FAR superior #71's. NO comparison. The old 246's will get the job done if you haven't got a lot to plant or you aren't all that concerned with yield results, but if you happen to be one of us who care about what our money and efforts nets, there's simply no comparison. If time is an issue, #70's and #71's are light years ahead of older technology planters. Until just a few years ago, MOST major seed corn producers still used #71's because of their ability to accurately plant at much higher speeds and consistantly plant in varying conditions. There is a litany of reasons why they're so extremely popular.
And, liquid fertilizer is the standard for modern row crop farming. It's virtually unheard of for modern farmers to use dry granular due to it's slow and cumbersome handling, cost of handling, and issues with climate conditions (relative to storage) Dry fertilizers have to be placed a few inches away from the seed due to the salts they contain burning the seed. Liquid can be placed directly with the seed where it does the most good and is immediately benificial to the young plant, rather than waiting for the plant to grow out and find the granular fertilizer.
And I gotta say, any REAL farmer, of any scale, would pass out laughing at the prospect of buying their fertilizer at a Home Depot
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I agree with you in the case of a guy with enough acreage to justify a 4-row or larger unit, but I still believe the guys with the 2-rows are better served with dry fertilizer. Once again we will just have to agree to disagree. Nothing you say will ever convince me that a 71 without fertilizer attach or with liquid for that matter would be better for a guy just looking to put in a few small deer plots (deer are not overly concerned with yield, in fact lower yielding corn is often more attractive to them). Those guys would have a much easier time working with dry fertilizer. Kind of like you were not able to convince me that a 3-pt disc is better than a pull-type in ALL situations. Many may buy all of your arguments and I do most of the the time but you have been off a little at least twice now in my personal opinion based on some experience (I am the 5th generation of my family to work my farm, going on 40 years now). Once again you may have the last word and set everyone straight. Just remember, you took the first swing in this fight and I will once again let you have the last one. I will leave it up to the folks to decide who won. You come off way to knowitallish for me and I find myself again looseing some respect I had for you. Just remember, it is never too late to show a little respect for others opinions.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
I took the first swing?????? Now there's a real laugher!!!! Just because I pointed out a few bits of bad info, you're going to accuse me of starting a fight? WOW.........That's some mighty fine debating skills you have there.......
You seem to be more than a little sensitive when it's pointed out that your opinions are based on VERY limited experience. (and still a little sore about being put in your place about an antique disc) Planting a few acres of mediocre food plots doesn't quite constitute being a farmer or knowing about farming in general. (Regardless of where your ancestors lived) Living on a piece of farm land doesn't make one a farmer. And I'm quite sure your ability to grow low yielding, poor crops is beyond reproach.
Your opinions seem to be consistantly based upon the premise of "what I have is best, no matter what, even if it's outdated, slow, poor performing, and obsolete". I have no inclination towards respect for the opinions of those who spread poor information and have a closed mind. I couldn't possibly care any less if you respect me or not, as your opinion isn't important to me. You mis-quote, mis-interpret, and plain out misunderstand quite a bit. This isn't about who "won". But, as we see now, you prefer to turn this into a personal insult match. Trust me on this one, you aren't ready to go heads up with me there either.
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