John Deere F145H plow setup

[Kaptain Kill]

My buddy has a John Deere 4020 tractor and just bought a John Deere F145H semi mounted 4-16" plow. He wants me to set it up for him, and I have questions.

I think the formula for setting it up is:

4 bottoms x 16 inch bottoms equals 64 inches of cut width
Center of cut is 32 inches
32 inches plus 1/4 of one 16" bottom (4 inches) equals the center of draft
32 inches plus 4 inches = 36 inches (Center of draft)

Therefore the distance from dead center on the tractor to the inside tire wall of the furrow tire should be 36 inches (plus an inch or two for wider tires)

Can someone verify this is correct? I see lots of forums saying the Center of Draft is 32 inches, and they don't add anything else?

Also - if I wish to plow 8 inches deep, the tractor furrow tire will be 8 inches lower that the tractor land tire. I think this means I have to shorten the furrow side lower link of the 3 point hitch to level the plow lef to right, once it is in the ground. Sound correct?

Kaptain

 

[beenthere]

Also - if I wish to plow 8 inches deep, the tractor furrow tire will be 8 inches lower that the tractor land tire. I think this means I have to shorten the furrow side lower link of the 3 point hitch to level the plow lef to right, once it is in the ground. Sound correct?

Put an 8" block of wood under the left tire on flat ground and level the bottoms to the ground. Simulates running the right wheel in the furrow 8" deep.

Raise the front axle 4" to simulate front to rear heights and plow bottoms.

 

[Kaptain Kill]

Just making sure I understand:

I raise the back left tractor tire 8"
Raise the front axle 4" - the entire axle or just the left front tire?

 

[Kaptain Kill]

Do I do these one at a time? In other words I use the 8" block and level the bottoms to the ground. Then remove the 8 inch block and raise the entire front axle 4" and level the plow front to rear?

 

[beenthere]

Do them at the same time, and another 8" block under the left front wheel will do the same thing as a jack raising the center 4".

The idea is just simulating the tractor position (tilt fore and aft) when the plow is turning over dirt that you want 8" deep right to left and front to back. That is as I visualize it and have set plows in my past.

 

[Tx Jim]

Back when I owned/plowed with my JD F145 moldboard I just attached the plow then completed 1 round got off tractor made the necessary adjustments & continued plowing. If one makes the adjustments with a 8'' block of wood under LH rear tractor tire & raise tractor frt end 4'' I think 1st round plowed will be Whompyjawed IE plowed unlevel?? Also not all soil will accept being plowed 8'' deep.

Please explain the need to raise tractor frt end 4'' when making initial adjustment for a JD145 Semi-Integral moldboard plow. IMHO tractor draft control will compensate for that unnecessary 4'' task.

 

[beenthere]

No real need for raising the front 4", as you say the draft control will handle that.

And laying open the first pass without the furrow will not look pretty either.
And 8" deep will likely not happen in all soils either.
But setting the plow prior to actually plowing, the block works well. 6" block likely better for initial setting.

Adjusting a plow isn't easy as 1-2-3. And Tx Jim says it well. Understanding the plow is important, but from the OP post, the buddy does not and the OP only some better.

 

[Kaptain Kill]

Okay - this is what I think you're saying: Put a 6 inch block under both left side tires and level the front of the plow by shortening the lower right 3pt link. Correct?

What about the Center of Draft? His 4020 is very close to 32 inches - from the dead center of the tractor - to the inside furrow tire tread. Will this work to fully fill the furrow, or should 1/4 of the 16" bottom be added - to get it to 36 inches?

If I elect not to widen the tires, can the front draw bar of the plow be moved instead? There is a bolt on the draw bar of the plow that can be moved. There are a total of three holes to allow left-to-right adjustments.

I have also read that if I get the plow set correctly, I should be able to fully collapse the lift cylinder. In other words, I should only need to lift and lower the 3pt lever when plowing, and leave the cylinder alone?

 

[Tx Jim]

Rear furrow wheel mechanism has an adjustable depth stop so yes cylinder can be fully retracted. Putting block under frt wheel or jacking up frt end is IMHO a waste of time where a semi-integral plow is involved. Yes plow hitch bar is adjustable side to side. IIRC 4020 sway blocks were suppose to be in the up position.

 

[Kaptain Kill]

So just a 6" block under the rear left tire should do fine? Thanks very much for your help!. I appreicate it!