Joining a "trim board" to a “stud”?

[miscjames]

If you are just wanting them connected without anything on the face or the back you could use strong tie angles. You could put them on top and bottom of your header and on the side of the upright.

View attachment 1988295

I like this idea

 

[CH4Ohio]

Terms corrected thanks for the input. Do you have any suggestions for the question asked?

I was mainly trying to understand your question . . . still not sure. I'm not interested in correcting your terminology -- just trying to understand your question.

You're saying 2x12 "STUDS". A 2x12 STUD would indicate that your wall is 12" THICK. I think you mean that you're going to use 2x12 boards on the inside frame of your door and they'll be FLAT against the wall. Is that right?

I thought I did offer some suggestions, along with a pic that might help you understand what you needed.

If you'd post a picture of your opening, both outside and inside, it would be pretty easy to offer options. Hard to say how to frame it without seeing what you have to attach to.

You need to wrap the door opening with 2x6 material. The weatherstripping will ultimately attach to this. What is available to attach this to? -- that's the main question about what you need to do. Your inside door frame will butt up to this or overlap it -- depending on how deep your wall is.

Your overall door frame isn't going to be just 1-1/2" thick. You'll have at least one more framing member behind those 2x12 boards. Overlap them in such a way that you can just screw through the face of the boards. If you're running 2x12 boards vertically on both sides of the doors, you could run them from floor to ceiling. (They still need another board behind them to fasten to and will join or overlap your door jamb lumber.) You could notch into the 2x12 to let your 2x10 header sit on the 2x12 and then it would get screwed right through the face of it into the board behind it.

You won't need to attach the "edges" of the header and supports if they both have another board behind them.

I think the garage door guy's advice about "not cutting the 2x12s" and concern about "not hitting a crack" is causing confusion. This really doesn't need to be that complicated. Take a look at the picture I sent and figure out how you're going to get similar framing on the inside of your metal building.

Let's see a few pictures. . .

 

[miscjames]

Here is some pictures i have of the inside and outside. I can get better ones if needed.

 

[jk96]

Are doors going to be roll up doors? Just did a similar building. Doors included and all were trimed out in metal. 3 roll up doors and one larger metal chain roll up.

 

[1 Old Man]

JK96 is correct. The exterior trim should be metal whether the door is a roll up or a track
overhead door.

 

[miscjames]

Are doors going to be roll up doors? Just did a similar building. Doors included and all were trimed out in metal. 3 roll up doors and one larger metal chain roll up.View attachment 2009756View attachment 2009757View attachment 2009758

Tracked as i wanted some r value on the doors. As i am insulting the whole thing. And i didnt like the roll ups that were offered with the building.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Thanks for the pics -- that helps! Most of my previous suggestions don't apply now that I see it. You're already trimmed out on the outside and door jamb side.

Seems to me that you'll want to put horizontal stringers/"nailers" (wood or metal) in your "studspace" every couple feet if you're still wanting to attach wood 2x12s. That would let you screw or bolt right through the face of them and attach it to the metal framing.

Same with over the door. Need to put something in the wall space that's fastened solid and attach your wood directly to that. The ends can still sit on the uprights.

Your interior is so neat and clean looking, I'd check with the metal building guys to see if they have a suggested approach. Do you have any metal "stud" or framing material left over that you can use as blocking? Might be easiest to attach metal to metal. I bet the metal building guys have a way to install an OH door without using a lot of wood framing.