Joystick handle and Horn install

[kennyd]

I finally got a chance to install my Joystick handle I bought last year, and while I was at it and had an extra button I installed a horn. The Handle is from John Deere, they use it on the 110 TLB's (cost $170.00) and the horn is from AutoZone (cost $14.00).

The hole in the end of the joystick was to big to fit, so I had to machine the adapter to make it fit.

I added 2 relays because I did not know the rating of the membrane switch in the handle, So I thought I'd just play it safe with the relays. The UP/DOWN switch operates the diverter on the FEL, either UP or Down activates the diverter. The front single switch operates the horn.

Thanks for looking

 

[3RRL]

Sweet Kenny,
Nice job and installation pictures too. Especially handy on that joystick like that. Curious, did your Deere not come with a factory horn? Or were you replacing one?

 

[kennyd]

No Rob, no horn from JD. Did yours come with one? If so, where the button?

 

[GuglioLS]

KennyD

Nice clean install on the joystick and horn, the wire connectors, relay install and wire routing look great. Definitely a good idea to install relays using joystick switches. To protect the switches 100% did you install diodes across the relay coils?

Whenever a switch is used on a DC relay or solenoid, or any type of inductive load (coils of wire wrapped around a ferris metal core) with DC (Direct Current) A diode is installed across the solenoid or relay coils to protect the switch contact from arcing. When the field energy that energizes a relay or solenoid collapses from opening a switch, reverse high current, high voltage is generated that arcs across the switch contacts when opened.

A diode will short out that resultant reverse current generated by the coil when the switch is opened, (It prevents arcing across the switch contacts extending switch life). One diode per solenoid or relay coil. Make sure the polarity is correct! i.e. The white band (cathode) on the diode is connected to the + side of the coil the other end of the diode (anode) is connected to the minus side of the coil. Like this:




Most 12 volt applications can use a 1 amp 1000 volt diode (NTE125)

Larry

 

[3RRL]

No Rob, no horn from JD. Did yours come with one? If so, where the button?

Kenny,
Yeah, my Kama came with a horn in it. I only use it to get my wife's attention though.
Like SOS, three long beeps means "Bring some more coffee please". I've only tried that once though, and it didn't go over very well. So now I just drive back to camp to get more coffee.
Here's where the button is located on a lower dash panel below the instrument cluster.

 

[lincolnvt]

Kenny
Very cool - great job on the install and thanks for posting! Keep up the good work and ideas.

Brad

 

[kennyd]

KennyD

Nice clean install on the joystick and horn, the wire connectors, relay install and wire routing look great. Definitely a good idea to install relays using joystick switches. To protect the switches 100% did you install diodes across the relay coils?

Whenever a switch is used on a DC relay or solenoid, or any type of inductive load (coils of wire wrapped around a ferris metal core) with DC (Direct Current) A diode is installed across the solenoid or relay coils to protect the switch contact from arcing. When the field energy that energizes a relay or solenoid collapses from opening a switch, reverse high current, high voltage is generated that arcs across the switch contacts when opened.

A diode will short out that resultant reverse current generated by the coil when the switch is opened, (It prevents arcing across the switch contacts extending switch life). One diode per solenoid or relay coil. Make sure the polarity is correct! i.e. The white band (cathode) on the diode is connected to the + side of the coil the other end of the diode (anode) is connected to the minus side of the coil. Like this:




Most 12 volt applications can use a 1 amp 1000 volt diode (NTE125)

Larry

Thanks Larry, I did not use diode, but I remember everything you said from three years of Electronics classes. I will definately get some-I think I mat even have some in my old "project box"

And also thanks for the compliments...

 

[BigE_]

You can pick up a 4A 1N4004 diode (numbers from the top of my head) at Radio Shock for a buck or two. Might even get a package of them for that price.

Before the compact fluorescent bulbs came out, I used to put a diode in-line with the light switch on hard to change light bulbs. Replace the 60W with a 90W, and Bob's your uncle. Bulbs use 1/2 the voltage and 71% (square root of 2 over 2) the power, so they last 10x as long. At any rate, I used to use these diodes for that purpose.

When I was in college, at the house I lived in, I was responsible for changing all of the light bulbs, so they all got this treatment. I went back to visit a few years back, and someone mentioned that they could never get the CFLs to work in the house. In that house, I did a diode per light, wired in at the fixture. Only took 5 minutes per light. It was hard to spot unless you knew what you were looking for.

 

[Weedbo]

Kenny - I know it's been a few years but I'm new to TractorByNet and I think you may be able to help. I'm not engineer and I need some guidence with regard to a joystick switch problem... I bought a JD 5325 back in 2004. It came with an ergonomic handle (like the one you installed). I ordered a WR Long grapple and had it installed at the dealer. I was horrified when it was dilevered with a new home-made looking blocked shapped handle and switch that had replaced the cool ergonomic one. They claimed that that was the switch and handle that had come with the grapple and if I wanted the egonomic handle, I'd have to purchase a handle that had the switch in it (the original handle that came with the tractor had a cut-out for the switch, but there wasn't one in it). So I purchased the new handle, installed it, but it would't work. I thought it was defective. So I returned it and got another. This time it worked for about 5 seconds and then stopped. Turns out, the switch is a different voltage or something and I was burning out the switch. But how to install a switch that could handle the load that would fit into the cool JD handle... I had given up until I saw your post. Do I need a "relay"? HELP! How to find and how to install. Thanks so much.

 

[kennyd]

Kenny - I know it's been a few years but I'm new to TractorByNet and I think you may be able to help. I'm not engineer and I need some guidence with regard to a joystick switch problem... I bought a JD 5325 back in 2004. It came with an ergonomic handle (like the one you installed). I ordered a WR Long grapple and had it installed at the dealer. I was horrified when it was dilevered with a new home-made looking blocked shapped handle and switch that had replaced the cool ergonomic one. They claimed that that was the switch and handle that had come with the grapple and if I wanted the egonomic handle, I'd have to purchase a handle that had the switch in it (the original handle that came with the tractor had a cut-out for the switch, but there wasn't one in it). So I purchased the new handle, installed it, but it would't work. I thought it was defective. So I returned it and got another. This time it worked for about 5 seconds and then stopped. Turns out, the switch is a different voltage or something and I was burning out the switch. But how to install a switch that could handle the load that would fit into the cool JD handle... I had given up until I saw your post. Do I need a "relay"? HELP! How to find and how to install. Thanks so much.

Welcome to TBN

Yes , you NEED a relay. The switch in the handle is just a small membrane switch and cannot take a lot of current. What valve form WR do you have? The true 3rd function or the Diverter?