Joystick Valve

[sundevil64]

Mahindra model 2615 year 2009

I am having a hard time finding a replacement for the joystick valve. Can I go through it with new o rings and rebuild it? Any tips or can you point me in the right direction of some options? I don't know much about tractors and this is new to me, but I am mechanically inclined.

 

[Dave M7040]

Why do you think you need a new valve?
The one you have has 7 hoses which means a replacement must have a power beyond option.
The common mistake owners make is buying too big a flow rate replacement valve. What this does is rob you of fine control of the loader.
10 gpm or even a bit less will work fine.
Surplus Center is a good place to buy. Here is a link:
Surplus
Call their tech support at 1-800-488-3407

Where people get into trouble is mixing up the three critical hoses which in your case are the ones without a quick connect.
Clean the casting and look for letters adjacent to these three hoses.
Dave M7040

 

[LD1]

Agree with Dave, why do you think you need a new valve?

Outside of the dealer, the chances of finding an exact replacement are slim. But plenty of aftermarket options for loader joystick valves with every configuration imaginable.

The ONLY o-rings in those valves are the ones that seal the spool to the casting to prevent external leaks where the two spools protrude the casting....one side where the "can" is that houses the return springs and detent mechanisms, the other side where the spool comes out and connects to the linkage for the joystick to operate.

There are NO internal seals that seal passageways between the functions. Just a very tight tolerance machined spool and bore. IE: metal on metal and no seals

 

[sundevil64]

Why do you think you need a new valve?
The one you have has 7 hoses which means a replacement must have a power beyond option.
The common mistake owners make is buying too big a flow rate replacement valve. What this does is rob you of fine control of the loader.
10 gpm or even a bit less will work fine.
Surplus Center is a good place to buy. Here is a link:
Surplus
Call their tech support at 1-800-488-3407

Where people get into trouble is mixing up the three critical hoses which in your case are the ones without a quick connect.
Clean the casting and look for letters adjacent to these three hoses.
Dave M7040

Thanks Dave for the response.

I was thinking I need a new valve because the loader lift would work up and down and and the bucket tilt would not. Then while trying to work the joystick, the loader lift stopped and the tilt went down a little but now nothing happens.

Is there a bypass that fails or gets dirt in it and gets stuck? I also need to replace the hoses. One of them is wearing at the fitting and the rest are heavily weathered with some cracking.

I found that website. I didn't see one that matched, but I did find one on another site (7 hose). Is power beyond for a remote power unit? Trying to learn all this quickly.

John

 

[sundevil64]

Agree with Dave, why do you think you need a new valve?

Outside of the dealer, the chances of finding an exact replacement are slim. But plenty of aftermarket options for loader joystick valves with every configuration imaginable.

The ONLY o-rings in those valves are the ones that seal the spool to the casting to prevent external leaks where the two spools protrude the casting....one side where the "can" is that houses the return springs and detent mechanisms, the other side where the spool comes out and connects to the linkage for the joystick to operate.

There are NO internal seals that seal passageways between the functions. Just a very tight tolerance machined spool and bore. IE: metal on metal and no seals

Thanks LD1. I interpret that as don’t spend my time there.

 

[LD1]

No, dont waste your time trying to tear apart a valve if it isnt leaking externally. There is nothing to replace in there.

But the symptoms you describe.....could be a valve....but the most likely culpreit is the quick disconnects. Sometimes they can pop loose and not allow flow and its hard to see. Try resting the loader on the ground, tractor off, wiggle the joystick in all directions to relieve pressure.

Then unhook all 4 quick disconnects and reseat them and see if that solves your problem. I am betting it will.

 

[sundevil64]

Okay thanks. Will do and see if that changes something.

 

[sundevil64]

I tried that. Disconnected ll the QD. They didn't seem stuck, but rotated the collar took them off and on and pushed in the button (yes, released the pressure prior with the joystick). Started the tractor and tried it no difference.

 

[LD1]

So are both functions currently not working correctly? Or is one function working?

Is there any noise or change in tone from the engine/pump/hydraulics when trying to get the loader to move?

Are any of the hoses flexing like they have pressure being built inside them?

Are the spools actually moving when operating the joystick?

Are you sure the hoses are re-attached correctly? The two on the left closest to the tractor should BOTH go to the lift cylinders and the two furthest away from the tractor go to the curl cylinders? They arent paired side by side where they are the closest to eachother. They are paired fore/aft....length of the tractor. Double check all of that.....maybe even take your picture and mark where each one goes and repost the pic

 

[sundevil64]

Yes, there is pressure on the lines coming from the pump to the valve.

I will check the hose attachment. The connections are- Closest to the tractor B1 and B2, then parallel to them is A1 and A2, then there is a PB, iirc?

I will check them and let you know. Not sure what you mean by spooling? I think of a turbo when I hear that.

 

[LD1]

OK....make sure B1 and B2 are going to the SAME function....and A1 and A2 going to the other.

If you have A1 going to the lift cylinders for raise, and B1 going to the lift cylinders for lower....and A2/B2 going to the bucket cylinders....it would do what you are describing where neither function would work

I didnt say anything about spooling. I said make sure the spools are actually moving.

The spools are the shiny metal round "rods" coming out of the valve and attaching to the joystick handle......when moving the joystick, those actually move into and out of the casting of the valve body. If those arent moving when you move the joystick....you got something else going on

 

[sundevil64]

Thank you LD1! That was it. The lines were reconnected incorrectly. Not only can I now replace the cracked lines I learned something new along the way. Very excited.

 

[LD1]

Great news and glad you got it figured out

 

[sundevil64]

Also, valuable lesson learned in the course of this. I labeled the lines to make it a little easier.

 

[MadJack]

... I'm reading, and learning too.

 

[Jim cotton]

I have a Montana 4540 model 100 I need a rebuild kit for the joystick mine is leaking wheeler could I find one?

 

[LD1]

I have a Montana 4540 model 100 I need a rebuild kit for the joystick mine is leaking wheeler could I find one?

Isolate where it is leaking from. Take it apart to see what size o-ring or quad-ring it has. Take to a hydraulic shop and get appropriate seals.

I have never see someone sell a "rebuild kit" for a valve.