JRW snowblower chute rotate conversion.

[JerryK]

Just started converting my blower from crank rotate to a Superwinch LT2000 rotate. Went to electric so I can still use it on both tractors. The LT2000 is an ATV kit which has a handlebar mounted toggle switch AND remote reversing contactor...which I will locate both next to the seat on the tractor....and run only two big wires back to the winch motor. Here is a picture of the old homebuilt crank and my new setup... I will be wiring it in the next week or so....

 

[JerryK]

and with winch mounted....

 

[doxford jim]

Jerry

You have done exactly what I want to do - but for a different reason. For me it is the easiest and cheapest conversion and no having to mess with hydraulic system.

I recently picked up a 1500 lb electric winch for $45 IIRC and then paid $30 for a fairlead to install (later they came on sale for $10 - duh! ). I figure the system can be completed for about $100 in parts plus my labour of course. I get what I want and, as you say, can be used on any tractor with 12V electric system.

Cheers

Jim

 

[JerryK]

Jerry

You have done exactly what I want to do - but for a different reason. For me it is the easiest and cheapest conversion and no having to mess with hydraulic system.

I recently picked up a 1500 lb electric winch for $45 IIRC and then paid $30 for a fairlead to install (later they came on sale for $10 - duh! ). I figure the system can be completed for about $100 in parts plus my labour of course. I get what I want and, as you say, can be used on any tractor with 12V electric system.

Cheers

Jim

Howdy,

I have mine mostly wired. I am waiting on an ECCO class 1 rotary beacon than I am going to mount to the ROPS. I decided to put the rotate switch about 6" down from the top of the ROPS so I can access it easily whether turned right or left on the seat. On my old JD 2240, I could only rotate right in the seat because I had to work the reverser and clutch with my left side. I am making this tractor ambidexterous, and hope to usually rotate to the left so I can watch the main cutting edge of my JRW blower, which is the left side. I used 'Anderson type' 50 amp connectors between my battery and the control unit....and again in the rear at the top of the three point going down to the blower. I had a bunch of used ones, but ended up just going on Ebay and buying 10 more for a little less than $11 USD, not loonies.....

 

[JerryK]

Here is some pictures of the mostly finished wiring... First picture is of two rotate palm buttons mounted on the right ROPS. Second is of the box with the reversing contactors [ actually two 50 amp relays ] with the rotate rocker switch that came with the kit [ SuperWinch LT2000 ] mounted on it..that is on the left ROPS. Last two are the wiring, that may need some more repositioning once I use it a bit....

 

[JerryK]

Got the beacon installed yesterday. It is an ECCO 5816A rotary with a rubber mount base. Lets it maybe live thru a low speed collision, we'll see. I was going to stick it out back of the ROPS, but thought that might be a problem when I was using the backhoe... Stuck it out the front on an aluminum bracket, spaced down an extra inch with a couple old John Deere seat rollers...... I am done with getting the tractor ready for the winter, on to a one ton 3pt ballast project....

 

[RidgeHiker]

How does this work? Is the winch motor designed to run in 2 directions or did you convert it?

 

[JerryK]

The winch motor reverses directions when you swap the positive and negative power going to the motor [ like most direct current motors ]. This SuperWinch LT2000 ATV winch kit came with a small rocker switch which goes to a small box with two relays in it. One of the relays applies power to the motor to run it in one direction, and the other relay applies power to run it the other direction. Some winch kits do not have the reversing relays, and just use a larger remote rocker switch [ with heavier wire going to it ] that directly swaps the power going to the motor. A properly maintained discharge chute does not take much effort to rotate it, other than when the blower is really working and blowing a lot of snow. You should keep the metal to metal surfaces free of rust and lubed with white lithium grease. Keeping sand and other grit out is harder if you snowblow a lot of dirt during use. I clean and grease my chute each spring, and also recoat the inside of the fan area with paint, lube the big auger chain, etc... Good Luck.... Jerry

 

[RidgeHiker]

Thanks Jerry,
That is a very complete and clear answer!

 

[JerryK]

Thanks Jerry,
That is a very complete and clear answer!

No problem..!!! Us old retired furts have lots to run our mouths about... but the big problem is finding someone that is not tired of the listening....