Just bought a bush hog, what to look for??

[Gary Fowler]

also need to add hanging chains or something to control the "projectiles"

Thanks[/QUOTE]I don't think I would put chains on the rear (chains are already on the front from the photos) as they would likely just impede the discharge significantly. I don't think I have ever seen a bush hog with rear chains unless maybe for highway mowing. You should never mow with persons in the vicinity so rear projectiles is a non issue.
You could open the rear if you wanted to back over larger trees without bending the underside framing OR you could just strengthen the rear with some stiff framing that wouldn't bend as easily. I think that I would go with the strengthening rather than cutting away the sheet metal.

 

[LD1]

I would not run that cutter, w/40HP gearbox and light blades, over anything bigger than 1" (forward or backwards)

 

[SPYDERLK]

also need to add hanging chains or something to control the "projectiles"

Thanks

I don't think I would put chains on the rear (chains are already on the front from the photos) as they would likely just impede the discharge significantly. I don't think I have ever seen a bush hog with rear chains unless maybe for highway mowing. You should never mow with persons in the vicinity so rear projectiles is a non issue.
You could open the rear if you wanted to back over larger trees without bending the underside framing OR you could just strengthen the rear with some stiff framing that wouldn't bend as easily. I think that I would go with the strengthening rather than cutting away the sheet metal.

Different poster. Different cutter.

 

[Bansil]

Most of the backwards mowing is just grass/small rose bushes,and field crap like in first couple pictures

I agree with the small gear box and such, and no wt added makes sense don't want to break it

Thank you all for the advice

I saw it had a small gear box, I am planning to build one from scratch next spring, now that I see how simple they are, a few holes to drill, shear some metal, cut some metal and the weld together...see easy

also noticed no slip clutch or shear pin on this light duty set up, I had to get something to keep these fields in check since "we" are now farming it (mid life crisis) :laughing:

Anyways, thanks for all the insight :drink:

1)I will not add wt to it
2)chains on the back would hurt discharge (it works great as is for the light field work)
3)keep it narrow and use it lightly (knew this when I bought it)
4)replace wheel (cheap enough)
5)and I will probably build one this spring, if so I will start a thread

 

[k0ua]

And to add a cap to this story... We are all sorry you did not get the original bush hog for $200.
Once in a while you stumble on a real bargain.. I bought a nice Remington 1100 shotgun for $200 once.. But that was it. My wife called one day and said that one of her co workers wanted to sell a 94 Winchester for $75, and wanted to know if that was a good deal,? but by the time she got off of the phone with me screaming "he77 yes buy it" another co worker bought it. Ya gotta strike while the iron is hot.. deals like that don't come along every day.

 

[Bansil]

I did stop at a yard sale while out bush hog shopping, and got 2 flats of new wide mouth Ball jars with a box of new lids for $6 total, that made me smile and needed them to put tomato sauce in :licking:

 

[k0ua]

I did stop at a yard sale while out bush hog shopping, and got 2 flats of new wide mouth Ball jars with a box of new lids for $6 total, that made me smile and needed them to put tomato sauce in :licking:

The wife says that is a very good deal!

 

[ovrszd]

I've never heard of adding width to a cutter. I'd like to see that.

I store a 5' KK cutter for my neighbor. Just looked at it to make sure. The bolt that holds the PTO shaft yoke to the cutter gearbox is your shear bolt.

 

[blin]

Good to see you back. Now all these fine folks that have been posting / reading this thread can get a good nights sleep

A new rear wheel frame is not that expensive, I have replaced mine. Couldn't get it to straighten quite right. More importantly is to fix what caused that to happen. Make sure that the top shaft is lubed properly. I would also check, and most likely replace the bushings and sleeve that hold the wheel bolt in place. When these don't turn right the wheel will not spin 180 degrees and you will end up side wheel plowing and bending the frame. Lube all the shafts and links

Make sure that that your top link connection has enough freedom of movement so that the front of the bush hog will pivot up and down as you the grade changes. This will give you more even cuts over changing terrain, and also save your front bracing from binding and deforming. Don't leave it too loose that it drops way down over an embankment, or you run the risk of damaging the universal joints. There is plenty of room in between. Leave the font of the brush hog a just little lower than the rear to help with discharge.

There is a direction that is better to travel that helps with an even discharge and less clumping of the cuttings. I can't remember if its mowing clockwise or counter clockwise.

Good Luck

Blin,
Thanks for your comment, it emailed me :thumbsup:

It came up in my email, I saw it this morning when I was cleaning the "spamming" I got from yahoo I had forgot the site name (it is now book marked) :laughing:

I never got the $200 bush hog, I did actually see it, behind a locked gate

We went to get it and low and behold...no keys

I finally said screw it and started looking for one, this literally has taken a couple months

Everything was either $1k+ or

1)rusted out decks

2)steel plate patches welded with bubble gum covering the entire thing, looking like a tortoise

3)they had 5 ft or 6ft diameter circles cut in the tops from the stump jumpers hitting and cutting

4) all the above reasons where listed as "good" or "excellent" shape :confused2:

So I finally found this one that past my evaluation and checks and was 2X the cheap one $400

This is a 5 foot, and am thinking of widening it this winter (she has good bones) and turn it into a 6 foot or so, if gearbox will hold up

unloading

dug up yard, 2wd tractors with no ballast on the back make 4 inch deep trenches fast

so I pulled truck out from under it

I headed into field after changing gearbox fluid

first pass

only 500 more to go

I just hit the blades quick, they will get more love this winter

the back wheel is screwed, besides being bent to the side (the rim I will take off and us press to fix it) the mount/swivel is really bent I can't back up w/o it wedging against the deck

beat it with 3 pound sledge to use it this weekend

SORRY FOLKS FOR NOT UPDATING THE THREAD BEFORE...:drink: