Tiller Just one more set of tiller questions

[sagaponack]

1. Its drought time in Long Island. Can I use the tiller in hard packed drought efected dirt? I mean it is like a rock.

2. Took me an hour to put on a 4 ft tiller on my jd 755. There must be a better way. I have the tiller on a pallett but it rolls out of place and is down when it should be up and up when it should be down. If you have a tiller you know what I mean.

PTO shaft, then sides, then center link? Right? PTO shaft attached to tiller and then attach shaft to tractor not shaft on tractorand then attach to tiller. Right?


Looking forward to doing it in 5 minutes. My back is killing me.

Rob

 

[Buck]

sagaponack,

You and I are apparently both new tiller owners. The first time I put on my tiller it took two or three hours!

My PTO shaft at the tractor end just would not connect. had to cut the shaft to fit, then file the PTO female receiver at the tractor end to get it in.

Now I am down to 10 mins. I also park mine on a pallet and follow the same sequence as you. The only difference I can see is that I use a cinder block to keep the heavy thing from moving while intstalling. This has helped me a lot.

Buck

 

[ronjhall]

<font color=blue>Looking forward to doing it in 5 minutes. My back is killing me.</font color=blue>
Rob
I had the same problem as you. Check out the link below. Adding casters to your pallet may be the answer. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=79652&Search=true&Forum=All_Forums&Words=rototiller&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=2&Limit=50&Old=allposts&Main=79405>Click Here</A>
After making the dolly. Time to put on tractor is 5 minutes or less. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
Check the rest of thread that the link is to. There are lots of suggestions on how to store attachments.
I do not have any hard soil to till. Can’t help you with your hard soil.

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>Can I use the tiller in hard packed drought efected dirt? I mean it is like a rock.
</font color=blue>

It makes the tiller hop up and down, a lot of banging and noise, and I sure don't like that, but I also sure did a lot of it with my tiller and never damaged anything.

<font color=blue>have the tiller on a pallett but it rolls out of place and is down when it should be up and up when it should be down</font color=blue>

If, before you unhook it, you lower the skids (adjust to minimum depth) it probably wouldn't do that, but for me at least that would take too long. So I simply put a short piece of 4 x 4 under each skid. Then doesn't your tiller have some kind of support leg or bracket on the front to keep it from rolling forward?

<font color=blue>PTO shaft, then sides, then center link? Right? PTO shaft attached to tiller and then attach shaft to tractor not shaft on tractorand then attach to tiller. Right?</font color=blue>

Ought to work as well as any way. I usually hooked up the side links first, then the PTO shaft, then the top link.

 

[Hawkflyer]

Like Bird, I have a little different order of assembly. I usually attach the side links first, then the driveline, and finally the toplink. I too am wondering if your tiller doesn't have a "kickstand". I usually park mine on a pair of timbers (one on each side) and have a block of wood for the kickstand. The blocks raise the unit off the ground high enough so I can allow the door on the back side of the tiller to close all the way and still be off the ground.

After you get the side arms on you can usually jostle the tractor a few inches back and forth to rock the unit a little if necessary, but I almost never have to do that.

 

[n6ckv]

For attaching the tiller I use the Freedom Hitch - best thing I ever got for the tractor.

For the hard ground two ideas:

Water the area on Tuesday night (all night) then till on Saturday

or

Use the box scraper with the scarfer bars and rip up the ground first then till


have use both methods

carl

 

[Mosey]

Watering the ground is a good idea. I've done that before digging with a shovel and it helps a lot. I haven't waited that long to dig though, I usually dig later that day or the next day or it just hardens up again.

 

[hickmo]

Here in North Georgia, the soil is red hard packed clay!! I went out and bought a 3 shank all purpose plow "chisel plow" to break the crust. Then I use thi tiller to break up th clumps and smooth the finish.

 

[TerryinMD]

Hmm... I guess I do mine a little different.

First, I learned the hard way to make sure that the tiller is stored on a level area. I park mine on our parking pad. Sure makes attaching a lot easier.

I have a Landpride and it has a stabilizer to hold it in place when attaching or removing.

I always readjust the skid shoes. Lower them all the way for storage. It takes any pressure off of the tines that way. Never thought about using wooden blocks. Not a bad idea.

When attaching this is what I do.

1. Line up the lower links, back in and attach them.
2. Attach the upper link.
3. Attach the PTO and then lift the tiller.
4. Adjust the skid shoes and raise the stabilizer arm.

Takes me less than 5 minutes. IMHO, keeping the implement on a level space is crucial. I try to do this for all of my implements. The plows are the easiest to attach and move around.

Hope this helps.

Terry