Just picked up a 336.. couple quick questions

[bmaverick]

But how does engine rpm mechanically translate to time? At idle time would slow down. At full power time will speed up.

To answer my own question I just looked it up. It's only accurate at 540 pto rpm engine speed. At idle it will register less actual time. The only accurate ones are electric ones. Even with those if you accidentally leave the key on you record false hours.

Yes, you got it like Winston stated.

I really prefer the mechanical with cable over the modern ones. The modern types will report info to the main computer and vis-versa, but nobody knows if there are logics inside the computer to drop the machine into limp mode for dealer service that are basic routine maintaince intervals. Thus, with a modern setup you could be working along and then wham-o, limp mode and a few hundred dollars to get something RESET. That's a big issue going on right now with the Right2Repair rules being worked on right now.

Be super glad to have a machine that is cable drive to the RPM and hour meter. Old school tech for compact tractors tends to be a real benefit.

 

[careyo63]

I've known this over the last 14 yrs. I had the YM2000. and 99.8% of the time is @ 2000 Eng. RPM,s. It's my lawnmower and chuckle to occasionally see how far the numbers move this week. Same!!! true. Warm up and cool down is never any different. My BB. and even the Rear scoop doesn't seem to move them at all either.

 

[bmaverick]

I've known this over the last 14 yrs. I had the YM2000. and 99.8% of the time is @ 2000 Eng. RPM,s. It's my lawnmower and chuckle to occasionally see how far the numbers move this week. Same!!! true. Warm up and cool down is never any different. My BB. and even the Rear scoop doesn't seem to move them at all either.

Smart. You are right on. Just because the equipment says 540rpms doesn't mean to constantly run it at 540rpms all the time. With my machine, it's PTO selection-2 and at 1400 to 1800 rpms for brush cutting. If it's high and over grown, sure, I'll get to 2000rpms, yet that's still shy of hitting the PTO rpms of 540.

If I can brush cut cleanly at 480rpms, the engine and PTO will have far less wear-n-tear.

 

[walnutman]

Yes, you got it like Winston stated.

I really prefer the mechanical with cable over the modern ones. The modern types will report info to the main computer and vis-versa, but nobody knows if there are logics inside the computer to drop the machine into limp mode for dealer service that are basic routine maintaince intervals. Thus, with a modern setup you could be working along and then wham-o, limp mode and a few hundred dollars to get something RESET. That's a big issue going on right now with the Right2Repair rules being worked on right now.

Be super glad to have a machine that is cable drive to the RPM and hour meter. Old school tech for compact tractors tends to be a rbenefit.

I think your concern is more towards the big ag machines. I had a 94 wheel horse lawn tractor with an electric hour meter.

 

[bmaverick]

I think your concern is more towards the big ag machines. I had a 94 wheel horse lawn tractor with an electric hour meter.

Yes, I remember those type too. And if you jumper them, you can by-pass the hour meter from logging more hours. Then sell the machine for more money. Early Sears were like that too.

 

[careyo63]

Smart. You are right on. Just because the equipment says 540rpms doesn't mean to constantly run it at 540rpms all the time. With my machine, it's PTO selection-2 and at 1400 to 1800 rpms for brush cutting. If it's high and over grown, sure, I'll get to 2000rpms, yet that's still shy of hitting the PTO rpms of 540.

If I can brush cut cleanly at 480rpms, the engine and PTO will have far less wear-n-tear.

1600 1800 Eng. RPM when I run 2nd. PTO. which I can now that it will stay locked in gear. Never could figure out why it would come out of gear? Check ball Dirty /Rusty was my guess. It was random. 1st always worked but after Hyd. changes etc. it will stay locked in now. Big+. Early in the season esp. But late Spring /Summer I run 1st. and keep the Eng HP. up.......

 

[walnutman]

Smart. You are right on. Just because the equipment says 540rpms doesn't mean to constantly run it at 540rpms all the time. With my machine, it's PTO selection-2 and at 1400 to 1800 rpms for brush cutting. If it's high and over grown, sure, I'll get to 2000rpms, yet that's still shy of hitting the PTO rpms of 540.

If I can brush cut cleanly at 480rpms, the engine and PTO will have far less wear-n-tear.

My 336 has a two speed pto. 540 and 1000.

 

[winston1]

If you run your tractor in the 1000 pto speed with a rotary mower or some such you need to slow engine speed to around 1400 or you may be slinging mower blades.

 

[careyo63]

I can honestly say I have never used 2nd, gear PTO. with my BH.. I have 3. Owned it for Yrs.. It's 4' which I believe is a old International ? I call it the "Beast" which it's ruthless on my wooded property. I stay around 1500 Eng. Rpms. 1st Gear. Don't make them like it now. Many Hrs. using a 7' Frontier. I only use it once or twice a Yr.. Mostly Spring and maybe Fall storms to clean up. Never mowed grass or high weeds so I don't know how it does. Extreme leaves and branches and it's almost comical how easily it works.

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[walnutman]

So I got all the manuals for my 336. A great help for sure. You can add a single acting cylinder implement directly to the hyd control valve under the front of the seat. This is where that handwheel in the middle of the control valve comes in. You can't use the tph hyd and the implement at the same time. If you hook up a single acting cylinder, you close that valve to concentrate the pressure to the aux port. Not sure what implement could be used in this fashion without tph lift capability though. The tph hyd lever becomes the control valve for the implement. Probably if you are pulling something with the drawbar that has maybe a hydraulic pump. Sprayer maybe?