Johnkn
Platinum Member
Rescue161, hows that tractor working out?
Buying Advice Just Purchased an LX2610SU - Loader Questions
- Thread starter rescue161
- Start date
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I am loving it. Still working out the right height for the finish mower on my grass. It is right on the money now as far as the length of the grass, but it scalps in some areas. The next height up does not scalp, but is just a little too long for my liking. I may fabricate or try to find some washers to hit that sweet spot. The box blade was awesome in helping me fix my yard where a logging truck got stuck. Stupid logging company told me they were going to fix it, but they never came back. They destroyed my drainage ditch, broke a culvert and put very deep ruts in my front yard from the road all the way the side. It was so bad, I couldn't drive my lawn mower in that area. I also got my driveway fixed. I ordered a Dewalt electric grease gun, but the grease has not made it here yet. I just hit 10 hours yesterday and I do not want to use the manual grease gun again. The old gun that I have is a mini-gun, so the tubes I have won't fit in the new electric gun, so I'm heading to Lowe's to buy a tube for the new gun. I bought a case of Paragon 3000 Lithium Grease, so hopefully I can find a compatible grease at Lowe's.
Johnkn
Platinum Member
Ha, beat you, I turned 11 hours yesterday LOL..... The cordless grease guns are a game changer. Keep us posted. Good luck.
s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 8,607
- Location
- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
If you plan to do a lot of greasing (and tractor owners do) it's usually a lot cheaper to buy a pail of grease. I bought a 5 gal pail of Kubota grease back in 2012 and it will probably last me a long time, maybe life. I forget the cost, but it was much much cheaper than tubes. You can quickly scoop and pack it into a grease gun cylinder with a putty knife.
I was just goofing around yesterday when it it 10, so I stopped. Could have easily gotten 12 or more, but I was just playing. So, with the pail, you just scoop it directly into the gun with no tube? The price difference wasn't that much on the Paragon grease, between pails and tubes, so I just got the tubes. I hope it makes it here. USPS has been playing, "let's send Scott's packages everywhere but his house." They routinely send packages to Puerto Rico, Florida and other points within North Carolina. It is extremely frustrating.
I put on a Pat's Easy Hitch system yesterday. I wanted to test it out on the box blade today, but Lowe's did not have any grease that was on par with the Paragon 3000, so I'll just wait until it comes in the mail. The hitch is well made and I can tell that it will be MUCH easier to line up the box blade. Mine has stationary pins that you have to swing the lower are out and onto the pins, so it is not fun.
I also got some PIP pins for the lower stabilizer arms, so I don't have to fight with the OEM pins and keeper pins. I got them on Ebay for $24 for the pair. Now, I just push the button to release the pins, move the arm, but pin in new position and let go of the button. They are made of stainless steel and are adjustable for the length.
I put on a Pat's Easy Hitch system yesterday. I wanted to test it out on the box blade today, but Lowe's did not have any grease that was on par with the Paragon 3000, so I'll just wait until it comes in the mail. The hitch is well made and I can tell that it will be MUCH easier to line up the box blade. Mine has stationary pins that you have to swing the lower are out and onto the pins, so it is not fun.
I also got some PIP pins for the lower stabilizer arms, so I don't have to fight with the OEM pins and keeper pins. I got them on Ebay for $24 for the pair. Now, I just push the button to release the pins, move the arm, but pin in new position and let go of the button. They are made of stainless steel and are adjustable for the length.
Johnkn
Platinum Member
Which pins did you get, I see there are many. I jut came in from installing my 3-point hitch and heavy Hitch. I parked the backhoe for now. The 3-point was a bit of a PITA with those little retaining clips. Also, curious, how low does your 3-point hitch drop, mine was higher than I expected, but have never used one before, I always just kept the BH on my last Kubota. thanks!
TWO (2) NEW CARR LANE 6-ABPT-1.25 ADJUSTABLE BALL LOCK PINS (T HANDLE) 3/8" | eBay
I chose these, because they have 4 retaining balls vs 2 on most of the others. This one is a T-handle and the length is adjustable. Most of the other sellers were wanting around $15-$20 for each, but this guy had 2 for $24. I'll have to measure it tomorrow, but yeah, mine seemed a little higher than I would have thought. I do have the larger tires, so that may be contributing to the height.
Once I get the height on the mower set, I'm probably going to use bolts and nylon nuts to hold the wheel assembly on vs the clips. I just have this vision of one or more of the clips coming off and losing my spacers somewhere.
I chose these, because they have 4 retaining balls vs 2 on most of the others. This one is a T-handle and the length is adjustable. Most of the other sellers were wanting around $15-$20 for each, but this guy had 2 for $24. I'll have to measure it tomorrow, but yeah, mine seemed a little higher than I would have thought. I do have the larger tires, so that may be contributing to the height.
Once I get the height on the mower set, I'm probably going to use bolts and nylon nuts to hold the wheel assembly on vs the clips. I just have this vision of one or more of the clips coming off and losing my spacers somewhere.
Johnkn
Platinum Member
Thanks for the link to the pins, and you used them on the inner stabilizer bars, correct? I am at a point in my life where I like the EZ button. I hate fooling with the little retaining clips on pins.
I plan to add some lights to the ROPS and am looking for a switch to go in the blank area on the dash where the regen switches go on the LX3310. I found one on Ebay, but man, it is expensive. Does anybody know of a source for this type of switch that has the rubber boot and is square? E-3C 1-75
Hazard Switch for Kubota L25 1, L32 , L44 , L524 , M49 , M954 + | eBay I looked through Digikey and Mouser and did not have any luck. I know I could use any switch, but wanted to use the same style as the one that is currently on the tractor.
Hazard Switch for Kubota L25 1, L32 , L44 , L524 , M49 , M954 + | eBay I looked through Digikey and Mouser and did not have any luck. I know I could use any switch, but wanted to use the same style as the one that is currently on the tractor.I think I found the switches that I'm going to use, so I'll update once they get here.
I did notice that the steering wheel was on crooked, so I removed it and put it on straight with the Kubota logo correctly oriented. Then after cutting a few rows of grass, it was upside down again. I just let it go and just checked it after every few passes and it just kept changing. Is it suppose to stay oriented when the tires/wheels are straight, or does it have some free-wheeling mechanism that won't allow the steering wheel to be centered when the wheels are straight? I'm hoping that something is just loose and I'll be able to tighten it up as my OCD gets the better of me.
I did notice that the steering wheel was on crooked, so I removed it and put it on straight with the Kubota logo correctly oriented. Then after cutting a few rows of grass, it was upside down again. I just let it go and just checked it after every few passes and it just kept changing. Is it suppose to stay oriented when the tires/wheels are straight, or does it have some free-wheeling mechanism that won't allow the steering wheel to be centered when the wheels are straight? I'm hoping that something is just loose and I'll be able to tighten it up as my OCD gets the better of me.
Like many newer tractors with power steering. The steering is not a solid mechanical link like years past.
Here's a thread.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/381681-two-types-hydraulic-steering.html
Here's a thread.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/381681-two-types-hydraulic-steering.html
I thought the same thing so I bent the wires a little tighter. 15 years later still on the same set.
Good deal. I thought something was wrong, but it makes sense now. I just hate that the steering wheel won't maintain the same position. Oh well.
For the lynch pins, I had the stainless bolts and nylon nuts, so that was easy to change. I don't ever plan to change the height of the deck and cut grass yesterday and it looked pretty good, height-wise.
As for the light switches, I have two cut-outs on the dash. My plan is to use a single lighted switch in one of the cut-outs for two separate lights to turn both on/off. For the other cut-out, I plan to put a DPDT momentary (on)-Off-(on) lighted switch that I'll wire up to only light up when the other switch is on. Then, if I press it in one direction, it will change the pattern of one of the lights. Pressing the other direction will change the pattern of the other light. When the main switch is off, both switches' illumination will be off. I'll make a video of the operation when I get everything installed.
For the lynch pins, I had the stainless bolts and nylon nuts, so that was easy to change. I don't ever plan to change the height of the deck and cut grass yesterday and it looked pretty good, height-wise.
As for the light switches, I have two cut-outs on the dash. My plan is to use a single lighted switch in one of the cut-outs for two separate lights to turn both on/off. For the other cut-out, I plan to put a DPDT momentary (on)-Off-(on) lighted switch that I'll wire up to only light up when the other switch is on. Then, if I press it in one direction, it will change the pattern of one of the lights. Pressing the other direction will change the pattern of the other light. When the main switch is off, both switches' illumination will be off. I'll make a video of the operation when I get everything installed.
Here are some similar links:
