Kama 554 Radiator Maintenance and Mods

[3RRL]

I am approaching the 400 hour mark on my Kama 554. I will be doing a semi-major maintenance on it including changing out all the oils and filters, setting valve lash and head bolt re-torque, and of course a general check over on the battery and all nuts and bolts, tires, belts, running gear etc. It is going to be a long weekend.

In addition to the above, one of the first things on my list is to change the radiator fluid because I have not done this since I got the tractor from the dealer 2 years ago. I have read some of the other threads regarding the correct anti-freeze for wet-sleeved engines and how to go about flushing out the gunk in the whole cooling system. I am also planning on replacing both upper and lower radiator hoses and finally add an Overflow Reservoir to it. To date, I have not had any trouble with the thermostat or any overheating problems due to the excellent suction (air flow) the fan and shroud produce through the radiator.

Here are the main ingredients I will be using:



Form left to right:
- Fleet Charge SCA Precharged heavy duty anti-freeze which provides optimum protection against freezing, boil over, cavitation erosion, corrosion and scale for all heavy duty cooling system applications.
- Zerex Radiator Super Flush with powerful cleaning agents restores system efficiency by removing rust, scale and oily residues. Can be used on all cooling system metals including aluminum.
-Zerex Water Pump Lubricant & Protector which prevents rust and corrosion while lubricating the water pump. Its powerful rust and corrosive inhibitors help prevent the accumulation of damaging radiator deposits that can cause boil overs, clogging and overheating.
- And finally a Coolant Return System designed for use where space is limited.

I got the additives at Napa and the coolant return system at PepBoys.
I know there are other threads on this topic already, but they have been done by the smarter and more studious members. I am sharing it to show how even a dim witted person like myself can do his own maintenance and mods. Not only that, you never know what you're going to run across when doing something like this. Each procedure is important to share for those purposes.

 

[greg_g]

I put identical little recovery containers on both the KM454 and TS354C. Gottem from JC Whitney, $10 each I think. Tricky part was finding somewhere to hang them other than in front of the radiators. Too much airflow disruption up there already. Oh, and don't lose that big round black spacer. Coolant won't return from the container to the radiator without it.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll post with pictures when I get it all done.

 

[RonMar]

The first mod I did to my 284 shortly after I got it was install a radiator catch tank and relocated the air filter back over the injector pump. There are pictures and a description of the modification on Johns Jinma site.

AirfilterCoolantRec

The original airfilter location was up in front of the top of the radiator screen with a long hose back to the intake manifold.

Good luck on your modifications.

 

[3RRL]

Great write up Ron,
My Kama has the same problem with the air cleaner right in front of the radiator. I have been thinking about moving it, as well as installing the overflow reservoir or quite some time now. Finding a spot for the overflow reservoir will be tricky on it. The hood is stuffed full of engine and room is at a premium.

You described the difficulty of cleaning the radiator after brush hogging exactly, with the air cleaner in the way like that. With the fan shroud on my Kama, the suction through the radiator is excellent, and I have not had any overheating problems at all, except when the radiator and air filter gets clogged from brush hogging. I guess there's no cure for that ... except it will be a lot easier to clean now.
Thanks for sharing the link.

 

[greg_g]

I guess there's no cure for that ...

Yes, there is. And I'm pretty sure I posted this at least once already. Go to Walmart and buy the fiber furnace filter. It's a big rectangle of blue (sometimes green) bio-degradable filter material. It's unframed, easily cut to fit with a scissors, and permits unrestricted passage of air through the radiator. It can also withstand cleaning with a hose or air compressor. I keep a piece over the front of my radiators as a year-round seed and chaff filter.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Great write up Ron,
I guess there's no cure for that ... except it will be a lot easier to clean now.
Thanks for sharing the link.

Thanks
As greg mentioned, a finer mesh pre filter keeps most of the debris out of the radiator. In the writeup I did on my mods, there is one pic showing the stock Jinma filter screen plate wrapped with several layers of aluminum window screen. this was the easiest way I found to do this and it keeps most of the debris out of the radiator passages, at least the pieces large enough that would get jammed into the air passages such as seeds and chaff. It also retained the rather heavy stock screen plate which will provide some protection to the radiator core if I should jam a stick up under the hood while busting brush.

 

[3RRL]

Yes, you are both right. I saw the screen on your tractor Ron, and I remember now Greg, that you posted about the furnace filter before. I remember wanting to do that, but forgot all about it. I will try to remember adding something like either of your screens while I'm at it. Oh Christ, another mod!
Thanks ...

 

[3RRL]

Although I didn't get around to adding the screen in front of the radiator, I finally completed my radiator and coolant change and added the overflow reservoir. Besides being time after nearly 400 hours, there was this lower radiator hose that started showing cracks in it. that also prompted to do something about it.



I started by draining the system of the old anti-freeze. You can see here by the color that the dealer put regular anti-freeze in it and not the specific wet sleeve type, which is either red or orange colored.



Nevertheless, it looked surprisingly super clean! I was starting to wonder why I was doing this?

 

[3RRL]

That is until I ran the flushing solution though. Then it all started to make more sense. Don't forget to drain the petcock on the right side of the engine block either.



I ran the engine for about 10 minutes after reaching operating temperature as suggested on the instructions. Even in need of an oil change and a valve lash adjustment, the 554 Kama ran smoothly at 2400rpm.



The more I drained out into the big container, the more I could see how much crud and rust had built up on the inside of the engine block and radiator. This had to affect the cooling ability of the system a little, I would presume.



After the first flushing, I re-filled the radiator and ran it for another 5 minutes or so before draining it again. This time most of the crud had been flushed out.



I did that one more time until the water coming out of the radiator and engine block petcock was very clear.

 

[3RRL]

Then it was time to take off the old lower radiator hose and replace with a new one. I bought Ø1-1/2 hose at Napa. The old hose was extremely hard to get off because there was very little room between the radiator and the engine return. The new hose was even harder to get back on! I had to fold it in half to get it in there.



I guess the best way to do it is to remove the radiator completely and put the hoses on the engine ports, then put the radiator back on and connect the hoses to it. but that seemed like too mush work so I managed to sqeeze them in there. I changed to top hose also, while I was at it. I reused the old clamps since I forgot to buy new ones, but they were fine.



Then I filled the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of the wet sleeve type anti-freeze and distilled water. After that, I used the little flimsy bracket that came with the overflow kit and added some of my own. Then tack welded the bracket to the air intake tube so the overflow could sit as high as possible under the hood.

 

[3RRL]

Here is the overflow kit mounted inside the engine compartment. You can see how high I was able to mount it and without interfering with anything else.



I was able to use my old radiator cap since I've never had an overheating problem with it. Nor did I move the giant air filter which is mounted in front of the radiator for the same reason. I might move it in the future only for the sake of easier cleaning of the radiator. But as far as blocking the air flow and causing overheating, it is no problem. The 554 runs constantly at 80°C as it is.

Here is a shot of the overflow from the bottom. I thought it turned out pretty good with the modified bracket and all.



Thanks for looking.

 

[Captinjack]

Say Rob

If you change the hose from the water pump to thermostat housing.......Let us know the NAPA part number as the diameter of the hose ends are different and the hose also has a 90 degree bend. I believe the bottom connection is 1" and the top is 1 1/2".

All my Chinese hoses are cracking and I'm going to do exactly what you are doing hopefully next week if I have time. If I beat you to it replacing this hose I'll post what hose sizes I used and the NAPA part numbers.

You said that the lower hose between the radiator is 1 1/2"? I must have measured wrong as I've recorded that it should be a 2" hose. The top radiator hose is 1 1/2" though.

I didn't buy the cooling system flush as my coolant also looked so clean. It is suprising how cruddy that looked when flushed. Larry had the same experience and that is what made me want to do the flush "before it needs" to be done.

I just cracked 100 hrs on my Kama 554 and just haven't had the time to get more hours on her.

Your postings have been a tremendous help to us inexperience tractor operators. Thanks again.

 

[3RRL]

Jack,
When you change the elbow hose, let me know what that is.

I used the same hose for both top and bottom connection...both are 1-1/2". If you look closely at the bottom hose photo you can see after the "609" there appears the start of an "S". Then look at the top hose photo and the "S" of Straight hose is cut in half.
Get some hose clamps too.
Thanks for your support and appreciation Jack.

 

[zogman]

HI WC ROB!

Great thread, I may do this mod too. I have had the slow overheat problem since I got mine and thought it was the radiator cap but now I believe it is the head gasket getting a little blow-by into the coolant. I can fill the radiator and after 4 hours or so it will blow out enough fluid through the overflow tube to see the top of the coolant tubes. I will try to re-torque the head this weekend with my new impact gun

I love my toys!

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I love impact guns but I strongly recommend a torque wrench instead for your head bolts.

 

[irwin]

Say Rob

If you change the hose from the water pump to thermostat housing.......Let us know the NAPA part number as the diameter of the hose ends are different and the hose also has a 90 degree bend. I believe the bottom connection is 1" and the top is 1 1/2".

Don't know if this will help anyone http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...at=Heater+Hose+-+90+Degree+Molded&VehCode=N.. NAPA has pictures and hose sizes posted on their web site..Also has adapters available for "limited" hose size changes, ie: (3/8" to 1/2") etc.

 

[NewToy]

That is until I ran the flushing solution though. Then it all started to make more sense. Don't forget to drain the petcock on the right side of the engine block either.



I ran the engine for about 10 minutes after reaching operating temperature as suggested on the instructions. Even in need of an oil change and a valve lash adjustment, the 554 Kama ran smoothly at 2400rpm.



The more I drained out into the big container, the more I could see how much crud and rust had built up on the inside of the engine block and radiator. This had to affect the cooling ability of the system a little, I would presume.



After the first flushing, I re-filled the radiator and ran it for another 5 minutes or so before draining it again. This time most of the crud had been flushed out.



I did that one more time until the water coming out of the radiator and engine block petcock was very clear.

I don't think the wet sleeve type is orange but just has the specific additive for the application. IH sells the additive for PowerStroke diesels that goes with ethylene glycol antifreeze. Also, TSC sells the FleetCharge brand that is pre-mixed ethylene glycol, low silicate with the wet sleeve/diesel additive already mixed in. My Ford manual specifically states to use a low silicate blend, Prestone says on the bottle that it is a high silicate formula so I stayed away from that.
John

 

[3RRL]

Agreed.
You can see in the first post I used the Fleet Charge SCA Precharged product.

 

[NewToy]

Agreed.
You can see in the first post I used the Fleet Charge SCA Precharged product.

I changed my tractor coolant today, refilled with the FleetCharge stuff from TSC. It was the neatest Purple color, too cool.
John