Kawasaki V-Twin running on one cylinder

[Napi]

Got a 2006 Club Car XRT 1550 with a 23 hp Kawasaki model FH680D, Club Car rates it as 20.9 hp. I've had it several years and it's never run great. I finally decided to work on it over the holidays. I took the carb apart and noticed a pinched gasket under the needle/float assembly. Ordered new gaskets and seals, reassembled and it runs a tiny bit better but still on one cylinder. The coils looked to be producing a weak spark. Ordered 2 new coils, installed and still the same.

I have adjusted the valves to 0.005 on each. The coils have 0.012 clearance. New plugs. I checked compression today and have 95 lbs on #1 cyl, 155 lbs on cyl #2. BUT, cyl #2 is the one not producing. Kawasaki calls for 52 lbs minimum. I can pull the plug wire off #1 and it dies. I can pull plug wire on #2 and no difference. Both have a blue spark, both rockers on each cylinder are moving. I've also run it with the kill wires disconnected.

I'm stumped! This is the same engine as the John Deere 737 zero turn.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Don't know much about this engine but here goes. Did you try switching the spark plugs and the coils to different sides? Did you check the intake when you had the carb off too see if it was obstructed on one side? Is the cylinder that's not firing, firing at the right time? Just tossing out ideas.

 

[Napi]

Yes on the coils and plugs. Had my wife pick up 2 new plugs today and installed, still the same. I didn't check the intake, should have though! Not sure on the firing at the right time. I did rotate by hand while the valve cover was off. The valves were loose when the magnets were under the coil for that side.

Thanks for ideas. I appreciate any and all help!

 

[bruceatlam]

So, when you switched the coils side to side, did the problem stay with #2 cylinder or move with the coil to #1 cylinder?

 

[Napi]

Stayed on #2. I forgot to mention, at around half throttle #2 kicks in some. I can tell some difference when pulling the plug wire off #2 around half throttle and up.

 

[Avondale]

I have a twin Kaw engine that runs great, (so far). Sadly, I can not offer any help but I am interested in hearing what the solution is should mine ever develop similar issues. Please post when it gets sorted out. Thanks.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

We have a gator with a liquid cooled Vtwin Kawi. It was almost impossible to start for years. The online info I found was that JD suggested a new carb but they weren't paying for them. $400 later with a new carb, it runs fine. You might try cleaning your carb out. All the small holes for the pilot jets that it idles with need to be clean. I use a wire plucked from a fine wire brush, held with needle nose pliers to push through the small holes in the carb body and jet.

 

[bruceatlam]

Stayed on #2. I forgot to mention, at around half throttle #2 kicks in some. I can tell some difference when pulling the plug wire off #2 around half throttle and up.

Leads me to believe it's a compression issue in spite of the data presented or a pulsing coil issue. You swapped the ignition coils and you did say that you checked the pulsing coils also ---- you didn't swap the pulsing coils did you?? You just checked the clearances ---- Can you swap the pulsing coils??

 

[Ken]

I worked on a Kawasaki v-twin with one cyl. dead but don't remember the model.
This engine was on a Lawn Mower and idle was good 1/2 speed it started to miss. removed the head because of slight rattle in cyl. The metal valve seat had cracked in aluminum block could see were it had worn the block.
Also check for a warped valve or spring not seated correctly.

Am interested what is found
ken

 

[Napi]

Leads me to believe it's a compression issue in spite of the data presented or a pulsing coil issue. You swapped the ignition coils and you did say that you checked the pulsing coils also ---- you didn't swap the pulsing coils did you?? You just checked the clearances ---- Can you swap the pulsing coils??

Not sure what you mean by pulsing coils. As far as I know, this engine only has ignition coils. I was able to work on it a little this afternoon. Sprayed starting fluid around the intake manifold and no change. I then pulled the air filter hose from the carb. I sprayed a puff of fluid at the carb opening and the rpm's went up. So, I pulled #1 plug wire and sprayed just enough to keep it going for a few seconds on #2. This leads me to believe it's a carb/fuel issue. I pulled the carb and disassembled again. All the openings are clean. The only thing that is suspect is on top of the carb there is a small angled plate with a homemade gasket covering a passage and tiny holes that go into the carb barrel. This homemade gasket was there from before. While at it I spun the engine over while holding my fingers in front of the intake manifold. Both sides feel about equal and have really good suction. I'll inspect the carb more later. Guess I need to order a gasket or make one that's better than what's on there.

I can't find my exact carb online. All the one's I see have a different plate on top with 3 screws. Mine has a smaller plate and two screws . The numbers on the Nikki carb are 7620, the 0 could be and 8, 150047007 266-801 It's 2 barrel with a single bowl and one pipe on top for fuel inlet.