Killing unwanted trees, hack and squirt method

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

I'd not squirt but paint with concentrated glyphosate or Roundup. Haven't actually done this..

Others have. That's why hack & squirt was invented.

 

[Jeff59Va]

Reviving and older thread here.

Question for you guys that have used hack and squirt or basal bark spraying – how long before you see any distress on the tree?

I have a grove of Tree of Heaven trees that I am trying to get a handle on. I treated a couple of weeks ago. Small sprout trees got sprayed with 2% glyphosate and they are showing signs of distress, mainly yellow leaves. Some of the largest ones I treated with hack and squirt, using straight Triclopyr (Garlon 4 generic). Some of the mid-sized ones I treated with basal bark spraying with a 20% Triclopyr in diesel fuel. The larger and mid sized ones are showing no distress at all, so I am wondering if I did something wrong, or just not enough time has passed. Is 2 weeks long enough to see any changes?

And a related question. These trees are all coming down eventually and I will replant with some native trees. From my reading about Tree of Heaven control, the game plan seems to be to slowly kill the mature trees so they do not send up a bunch of shoots from the roots. But if I plan to remove them anyway, is there any reason not to just cut them now and treat the cut stump with my 20% Triclopyr in diesel mixture?

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Girdle the larger trees, dead in weeks. This means remove the bark about 6 to 8 inches wide around the circumference of the tree.

 

[OldMcDonald]

I used to have a bit more than 3000 acres in Australia. Apart from the real desert areas most of Australia was originally all dense eucalyptus. Literally millions of acres were cleared by initially killing the trees by ring barking. That is a complete circle of axe cuts right around the tree and breaking the cambium layer. This was done at the most convenient height for the man. Men did this in the 1930s just for food, no pay.

I guess it took a while for them to die because my back paddock of 1000 acres was pretty well all regrown. The rest had been kept clear except some pine had been left and without the eucalypt competition they thrived and set seed up to a 50 yard circle with trees as close as 2 to 3 inches apart. Only finger thick of course, but the ground was totally useless.

I did a fair bit of narrow bladed axe cuts every few inches around the tree, again at a convenient height, and carried a back pack sheep drench set up - bag, tube and dosing gun. I used both tordon and garlon. Both worked and it took a little time, but the trees died. I also did some spot treatment on the ground, but the ground must be bare soil. Any vegetation is likely to take up the chemical instead of getting down to the tree roots. This is easier, but can be more expensive.

See this leaflet for both tree killing methods as well as general weed control http://www.fmccrop.com.au/download/herbicides/label/timba_label_au.pdf

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Slash and squirt is your path. The trees will be dead next spring. Basal application is on a fresh stump to stop suckering and regrowth. Glyphosate will yellow some leaves, but won't harm the tree.

 

[sixdogs]

I cut a chainsaw width cut around the base of the tree, maybe an inch deep, brush in straight 41% glyphosate--Roundup--and the tree will die. Must put the Roundup on ASAP and after 1/2 hour is too late. That's all that's needed. I girdle kill in the fall after leaves are gone and it air dries on the stump over the winter. Really easy.

 

[ericm979]

20% Triclopyr in diesel as a basal application can take a few weeks or even a month to kill the leaves.

Cutting the tree down and spraying the stump with the same mixture will work just as well.

"straight" triclopyr out of the container can vary from 8% to 64% actual triclopyr. I've not seen 100% yet.