KingKutter tiller not quick hitch compatible?

[Fallon]

I just picked up a new KingKutter 2 60" tiller. Got it home, realized we hadn't loaded up the PTO shaft, went back got the shaft. Got home, unloaded the tiller threw on the quick hitch bushings & went to hitch it up. After a couple failed attempts to grab it with the quick hitch I got to looking. The lower right hook barely caught, but was rubbing the frame & the lower left hook was too thick to fit between the pin & frame on the tiller. Not sure if it's my quick hitch that's a little lopsided on the hooks or the tiller that's tweaked, but I suspect it might be the tiller.

So here I sit a bit grumpy & wondering what to do. I've been trolling Craigslist for a while & no other 60"+ tillers have shown up. I was hoping to get the field tilled here ASAP to get some grass planted before May so bit the bullet & grabbed a new one.

No other KingKutter's or County Line (rebranded King Kutter's on sale for $200 less at the moment) are actually in stock locally. A 66" Land Pride is going to run me about $500 more.

I was planning on taking it back, but just had a thought. Any issues with just running it without the lower bushings?

 

[M E Race]

Just a thought, why not just drop the quick hitch and hook direct to 3ph. You won't have to pay any more or take anything back.

 

[oldballs]

As I understand it, if it will hook up it will be okay to run with it. The bushings just take some of the slop out of the connection. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Also, your QH may not be level or squared away for a good fit.

 

[Fallon]

I could drop the quick hitch, but what's the point of having a quick hitch if you have to take it off all the time?

Same for buying a new piece of equipment, you'd expect it to comply with the current standards. I have a TnT kit & fiddled around with the tilt a bit, but no luck. I might give it a shot tomorrow without the bushings & see how it goes.

 

[orangeandgreen]

I just went through the same issues with my 72" KK tiller. Last year I ran it without the bushings and it did okay most of the time, really hard ground made it bounce a little. This year, I made a little clearance by removing a section of the square tubing right behind the hitch pins.

 

[Baby Grand]

You may need to shorten the PTO shaft if you drop the QH & hitch it direct to the 3PT.
Will you be using the tiller a lot - attaching it and dropping it to use another implement frequently?
If not, I'd just cut the shaft and hitch it direct; if yes, I'd try to get my money back and find a QH compatible tiller.
Ask whoever you got it from if they can get the KKII Professional tiller, which is QH compatible, and do a swap for the old one and some $:
https://www.kingkutter.com/store-product.aspx?id=3444

 

[JimRB]

There is an industry standard for Cat0, Cat1, Cat2, Cat3, Cat4 and probably Imatch. Here are some threads that mentions the standard. Since the Cat specs expect slop in arms I would guess some manufacturers do not tightly adhere to the standard. My fertilizer spreader and my finish mower are spaced different than my other equipment I adapted to Imatch.

3-Point Hitch Standard Dimensions - Yesterday's Tractors
Tractor Category 1 2 3 Hitch sizes Defined -- Tractor Implements -- Page 1
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/65524-category-1-3pt-hitch-specifications-2.html

 

[timinsanborn]

can you just grind a little off the quick hitch hooks to gain clearance?

 

[Blade Breaker]

I just bought a 7 foot KK. My understanding is that it is quick hitch cat. 2 compatible. I was not planning on uncrating it until June but I may try it sooner to be sure.

 

[JRP]

I got the 6' county line from TSC. it was almost QG compatible. Pisses me off. All new equipment should be QH ready.


You could see if they could order county line.

Did you get the shipping frame? It it a tubular frame allowing stacking on the truck. If you add wheels and make the front verticals into pins it makes a handy roll around storage rack. Photos show before the wheels were weld on.

 

[Kioti Tom]

I just picked up a new KingKutter 2 60" tiller. Got it home, realized we hadn't loaded up the PTO shaft, went back got the shaft. Got home, unloaded the tiller threw on the quick hitch bushings & went to hitch it up. After a couple failed attempts to grab it with the quick hitch I got to looking. The lower right hook barely caught, but was rubbing the frame & the lower left hook was too thick to fit between the pin & frame on the tiller. Not sure if it's my quick hitch that's a little lopsided on the hooks or the tiller that's tweaked, but I suspect it might be the tiller.

So here I sit a bit grumpy & wondering what to do. I've been trolling Craigslist for a while & no other 60"+ tillers have shown up. I was hoping to get the field tilled here ASAP to get some grass planted before May so bit the bullet & grabbed a new one.

No other KingKutter's or County Line (rebranded King Kutter's on sale for $200 less at the moment) are actually in stock locally. A 66" Land Pride is going to run me about $500 more.

I was planning on taking it back, but just had a thought. Any issues with just running it without the lower bushings?

Tarter is making the Country Line tillers for TSC at the present time.

 

[engine29]

Not all implements are quick hitch compatible. Very seldom will the lower end implements as well as older implements be so. I have a Deere I-match and that thing is on and off constantly. Usually your better brands will be but an older Woods blade I tried once wasn't as well as an older L.P. tiller. So beware if you're buying especially the cheap stuff, very likely not compatible.

 

[PapaPerk]

My 72" KK tiller hooks right up to my John Deere iMatch hitch. Wonder why yours does not?! )0: That's really strange!

 

[Fallon]

Tarter is making the Country Line tillers for TSC at the present time.

It depends on what part of the country I believe. Here in Colorado the ones i've seen have been OEMed by KingKutter. Could just be old stock too, there haven't been any 5' ones around for a while. 6' have been KK.

 

[Fallon]

My 72" KK tiller hooks right up to my John Deere iMatch hitch. Wonder why yours does not?! )0: That's really strange!

I think the frame might be a little tweaked or their fixture was off. Hitches up on top & on one side with the bushings fine. other side has the pin maybe 1/4" to close to the frame. Could be my cheap quick hitch having a fat hook too I suppose. Should probably measure things at some point.

I pulled off the bushings & mounted it up. The top hook is as low as it can go, but the bottom pins are almost an inch from the bottom hooks. The latches on the bottom hooks close & it seems fine. Tilled up an acre maybe an acre & a half today & it did pretty good.

 

[yelbike]

I had to grind my HF qh hooks a little to mount my KK tiller. I don't use bushings either. My tiller has had quite a few hours over the past three years with no I'll effects so far.

 

[yelbike]

Not all implements are quick hitch compatible. Very seldom will the lower end implements as well as older implements be so. I have a Deere I-match and that thing is on and off constantly. Usually your better brands will be but an older Woods blade I tried once wasn't as well as an older L.P. tiller. So beware if you're buying especially the cheap stuff, very likely not compatible.

No offensive in intended but I think your quite ill informed. Kk tillers may have a lower price point but that doesn't make them lower end. I use to have a "high end" JD tiller which didn't come close to working as well as my KK. I don't believe price point has anything to do with compatibility either. Some implements are compatible, some aren't and some just need a little tweeking.

 

[Gary Fowler]

All this talk about incompatibility of QH's make me glad I have telescopic lift arms. Not the best for hook-up but no issue with fit up to any equipment. I don't swap implements that often so getting off the tractor to hook up the arms is not a big deal and they fit everything I have.

 

[PapaPerk]

Not all implements are quick hitch compatible. Very seldom will the lower end implements as well as older implements be so. I have a Deere I-match and that thing is on and off constantly. Usually your better brands will be but an older Woods blade I tried once wasn't as well as an older L.P. tiller. So beware if you're buying especially the cheap stuff, very likely not compatible.

I'll have to disagree with you about the KK tillers. Mine is awesome. Very tough and I actually like it better than the Woods units.

By the way here's a pic of my stock king kutter tiller on my stock John Deere iMatch hitch. Cheers! (0:





Here' a pic of my "cheap stuff" tiller making a new garden spot in never tiled hay field. Not bad ey?!

 

[atulin]

I just picked up a new KingKutter 2 60" tiller. Got it home, realized we hadn't loaded up the PTO shaft, went back got the shaft. Got home, unloaded the tiller threw on the quick hitch bushings & went to hitch it up. After a couple failed attempts to grab it with the quick hitch I got to looking. The lower right hook barely caught, but was rubbing the frame & the lower left hook was too thick to fit between the pin & frame on the tiller. Not sure if it's my quick hitch that's a little lopsided on the hooks or the tiller that's tweaked, but I suspect it might be the tiller.

So here I sit a bit grumpy & wondering what to do. I've been trolling Craigslist for a while & no other 60"+ tillers have shown up. I was hoping to get the field tilled here ASAP to get some grass planted before May so bit the bullet & grabbed a new one.

No other KingKutter's or County Line (rebranded King Kutter's on sale for $200 less at the moment) are actually in stock locally. A 66" Land Pride is going to run me about $500 more.

I was planning on taking it back, but just had a thought. Any issues with just running it without the lower bushings?

I have a Taylor Way (King Kutter) 60in tiller. In the upper mount point it came with a bolt through a bushing. The bushing was the right size but too low to allow the lower points to both seat fully. I just took out the bolt and raise the bushing up above the bolt then tightened the bolt back down. The bushing still keeps the two sides apart but now the upper hook on the imatch grabs the bolt and the bottom two links lock right in.