Buying Advice Kioti DK40SE HST(C) Versus LS R4041H

[Guesseral]

Nice tractor I think you will be very happy. My Montana is the 2009 version of your tractor and I havent had any problems with it. Lots of power and very versital, way more tractor than you are used too.

 

[GManBart]

First pic:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Looks good. :thumbsup: Don't forget to let some air out of the tires, you want full width on the ground.

 

[GManBart]

Looks good. :thumbsup: Don't forget to let some air out of the tires, you want full width on the ground.

Good point...thanks!

 

[bvanek]

That's a good looking tractor. I like the Blue color.... it is real purty. Looks like its got the joystick control at the seat. this is a great feature cause you have room to get off either side. Also its got the good loader support bracket that helps distribute the load towards the rear axle. Just looking at the photo, it looks to me like you got a real winner here. Never tested the LS, but we didn't have a dealership close by.

I have a Cub Cadet 7260. It has a Mitsubishi engine and is a conglomerate like LS. I really think these "mutt" tractors are pretty decent. They have the benefit of multiple technologies and usually come up with good quality and designs. My Cub Cadet has been a basically trouble free workhorse with 1185 hrs on it. Just put in a clutch (which you won't have to) I just bought a Kioti 40SE (gear) because I was essentially overworking the Cub (only 26 hp). and also because parts were extremely hard to find and expensive. Yanmar now owns their tractor line and they have their own engine and design. Cub cadet is now mowers/garden tractors and other smaller acreage equipment.
Yet to use the Kioti cause I actually don't have it yet. delivery on Jan 31st

ps. The close/trusted dealership can be rather significant, in my opinion. It is one reason I chose Kioti because my original dealer for Cub cadet disappeared. Fortunately my Cub cadet was, and still is, a very durable machine. We actually only have five long standing dealerships within 30 miles. (2) Kubota, (2) John Deere and (1) Kioti. I tested all 3 but went for more economical Kioti because it was heavier, had better lift capacity, and just seemed like a stronger tractor overall. The DK line has plenty of standard features that Kubota and JD charged extra for. John Deere was not willing to deal and they were overpriced to begin with.

I will find out soon if I made the right choice.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Great looking tractor and I am sure you will be happy with it.
Good catch on the tire pressue by MtnViewRanch. It looks like the rears are way overinflated, fronts not so much. I ran my LS for months before checking the tire pressures and the rear had like 28 PSI. I dropped it to 18 which is still too much but I got much better traction. I forget how much the fronts had but all were pretty much max pressure per tire sidewall. They ride smoother with less pressure also. The fronts need a bit high on pressure when using a FEL or Forks, dont want to roll one off the rim due to low pressure. I popped one of the rears off on my Kubota a few days ago due to low pressure. It didnt look low but operation on a sloped pond dike, it was enough side force to break the bead on the outside. I had to remove it to get it to take air and was lucky that it popped right back on the rim withouth resorting to flaming starting fluid or something. I had tried strapping it with a ratchet strap while on the tractor but that didnt work, maybe a chain comealong might have worked. Didnt find any leaks but I suppose just normal air leak and cold weather had lowered the pressure> Other tire had 10PSI which should have been plenty but I aired them all to within 5 psi of max. All I use if for is backhoe & fel work.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Great looking tractor and I am sure you will be happy with it.
Good catch on the tire pressue by MtnViewRanch. It looks like the rears are way overinflated, fronts not so much. I ran my LS for months before checking the tire pressures and the rear had like 28 PSI. I dropped it to 18 which is still too much but I got much better traction. I forget how much the fronts had but all were pretty much max pressure per tire sidewall. They ride smoother with less pressure also. The fronts need a bit high on pressure when using a FEL or Forks, dont want to roll one off the rim due to low pressure. I popped one of the rears off on my Kubota a few days ago due to low pressure. It didnt look low but operation on a sloped pond dike, it was enough side force to break the bead on the outside. I had to remove it to get it to take air and was lucky that it popped right back on the rim withouth resorting to flaming starting fluid or something. I had tried strapping it with a ratchet strap while on the tractor but that didnt work, maybe a chain comealong might have worked. Didnt find any leaks but I suppose just normal air leak and cold weather had lowered the pressure> Other tire had 10PSI which should have been plenty but I aired them all to within 5 psi of max. All I use if for is backhoe & fel work.

 

[GManBart]

Great looking tractor and I am sure you will be happy with it.
Good catch on the tire pressue by MtnViewRanch. It looks like the rears are way overinflated, fronts not so much. I ran my LS for months before checking the tire pressures and the rear had like 28 PSI. I dropped it to 18 which is still too much but I got much better traction. I forget how much the fronts had but all were pretty much max pressure per tire sidewall. They ride smoother with less pressure also. The fronts need a bit high on pressure when using a FEL or Forks, dont want to roll one off the rim due to low pressure. I popped one of the rears off on my Kubota a few days ago due to low pressure. It didnt look low but operation on a sloped pond dike, it was enough side force to break the bead on the outside. I had to remove it to get it to take air and was lucky that it popped right back on the rim withouth resorting to flaming starting fluid or something. I had tried strapping it with a ratchet strap while on the tractor but that didnt work, maybe a chain comealong might have worked. Didnt find any leaks but I suppose just normal air leak and cold weather had lowered the pressure> Other tire had 10PSI which should have been plenty but I aired them all to within 5 psi of max. All I use if for is backhoe & fel work.

I checked the tires, and the rears are at 18psi (tire manufacturer recommends 20), and the fronts are at 31psi, which is in the correct range they list (I'm doing only FEL work now). I guess I can drop a few pounds out of the rear and see how they look. R,

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I checked the tires, and the rears are at 18psi (tire manufacturer recommends 20), and the fronts are at 31psi, which is in the correct range they list (I'm doing only FEL work now). I guess I can drop a few pounds out of the rear and see how they look. R,

A lot of what the tire needs to be inflated to has to do with what's on the 3pt. The tires should touch the ground full width of the tread.

 

[bvanek]

I think the recommended tire pressures are a compromise by manufactures as related to the r4 tires. (labeled as industrial ) These tires are gaining popularity in the compact tractor industry. They are, in a sense, a "tweener" tire that give land owners a balance between turf tires and ag tires. So what I am saying is, if you want to maintain that balance you should keep the tires inflated to the recommended pressures.
But as MTNView has said above it depends also on axle load and whats on the 3 point hitch. This is determined with the implement in the raised position. Most of us don't go through this process and use the the eyeball or trial and error method and as long as you have equal pressures side to side, works fine.
My point is, that if you want to do some work on relatively flat or a gentle sloping hillside (turf, gravel, field, etc ) you may not want or need the extra traction that may bite into the ground and leave gouges/tracks. It can also depend on how smooth or gentile you are with turns or stops and starts and what or where your work is. Also if the tires are loaded or not?.
again i am not that familiar with R4 tires, but I do know that if you want traction, ag tires are far superior and gain the most benefits of using less air to get better traction.

Ps it is not uncommon for ag tires to be deflated to a degree that will actually profile a bulge on the sidewall. I Live on a hillside and most of my property is not flat so I don't do this to an extreme as some might ( plowing on flat or gentle sloping ground.) I am always concerned about putting enough side pressure (like in a loaded sharp angled turn or butted up against a log or stump) as to possibly compromise the rim seal and peal off the tire..