Kioti DK45 ..how to add circuits(s) to fuse box

[jaydee325]

I have one of these on my motorcycle. Welcome to Fuzeblocks - Out Stuff blows so yours doesn't

Pricy but easy and lets you select switched or on all the time

 

[airbiscuit]

Here is a related thread...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/375016-bx25-fuse-box-wire-connectors.html

 

[Dave M7040]

If you can use the 'add-a-circuit' fuse holder 7040 pictured, it will add no more capacity to that circuit than there was before. Take a 10amp fuse out of the original circuit, for example, and you put it back into the new holder. You then add a fuse in the 2nd slot of the same new holder, or less, amp rating to protect the new sub-circuit. (the wire leading off the holder) IF the circuit you select is already using quite a bit of it's capacity, the addition of the new sub-circuit may well over load the main circuit and blow it's fuse.


I am not trying to argue but rather to point out that the "add a fuse" operates differently than some understand. The second fuse is not depended at all on the original fuse for power. Rather, the "add a fuse gets it current from the main bus in the fuse panel. The fuses are completely independent.

I was pretty certain about this but had my wife just buy me a new "add a fuse and tested it with my multimeter and my understanding is correct.

If you had a 5 amp fuse in the fuse panel, you could put a 10 amp fuse in the add a circuit device for your new circuit. The 5 amp fuse does not see the 10 amp circuit.

Read the paragraph I boxed in red from the literature from Littlefuse, the manufacturer.

To work as I described above, the add a circuit must be installed in a particular orientation in the main fuse box.

Dave M7040

 

[TnAndy]

Yes, I got it....that is how it works.

It would seem, however, if the wire was gauged to accept a 10amp circuit before, and now you could put potentially 20amps on it (10 for the original, 10 for the new), the wire may be the weak link in the chain.....especially if you blow either of the two fuses down the road, have long since thrown the instructions away, and stick a 15 or 20 amp fuse in either slot.

 

[Dave M7040]

Yes, I got it....that is how it works.

It would seem, however, if the wire was gauged to accept a 10amp circuit before, and now you could put potentially 20amps on it (10 for the original, 10 for the new), the wire may be the weak link in the chain.....especially if you blow either of the two fuses down the road, have long since thrown the instructions away, and stick a 15 or 20 amp fuse in either slot.

The point is that the circuit feeding the add on is a bus not an existing wire circuit in the fuse box.. The wire size is not in the equation for the new add on as it is downstream from the original fuse and does not supply power to the add on.

The fuse panel will be fed by a high amperage slow blow fuse. It feeds a bus within the fuse box. Connecting to the bus side of the fuse box is only limited to the capacity of the slow blow fuse or fusible link feeding the fuse box.

The add a circuit people limit their product to provide a safe b10 amps to an existing metal contact in the fuse box.

Dave M7040

 

[sawmillman001]

Thanks to the many contributors to my query, "how to add circuits to a Kioti fuse box".

Very good advice from each and every one. I now know how to proceed to fix my problem.

In the short term, I will use an add-a-circuit as a temporary supply to my 12 volt outlet (mainly to power a 12v water pump). I realize that
the fuse box cover will not fit back on, but I can improvise a shield for a short term.

Later I will add a permanent small fuse box to cover future needs. Perhaps on the engine firewall, or wherever space allows.

When Dave M7040 described the "bus within the fuse box" I actually understood how the fuse box works. We are just drawing power off that bus terminal, and restricting
that power by the size of fuse we utilize. Admittedly, I should have known that!

Much appreciated, sawmillman

 

[Jstpssng]

A water pump is going to create quite a power drain. I would run hot and ground wires directly from the battery; thereby reducing your power loss and reducing the stress on your existing system. Even with a pump, it will work better if you can have the collecting tank lower than what you are pumping from.

 

[sawmillman001]

Thank you for the reminder, Jstpssng

For the part of my system that requires a lift to the collecting tank, I do have direct connection to a stationary 12 volt hd battery.

For barrel to barrel transfers, I plan on using a 12 v, tractor mounted outlet.. Short term I would like to use the regular fuse box, supplied by OEM wiring and slow blow fuse. Any problem and i will rewire to the tractor battery.

Will post my results after maple syrup season is finished.

 

[Coyote machine]

I believe there is a spare fuse in the factory fuse box on my 2010 DK-40se HST. I suspect the OP has the same box on his DK-45. If so I would disconnect the battery negative cable clamp to inspect the fuse block, after removing it's mounting screws. Locate the spare fuse location, determine the hot side and run a suitable size multi-stranded red wire from the + side of the spare fuse slot to a location on the rear of the tractor where the hot side of the cig socket will be mounted. This could be done by running the wires through the back of the fuse block to allow the cover to still fit, while being able to use the spare fuse slot to hold the correct rated fuse for the pump you plan to run Do the same from the ground side of the fuse holder with a black ground wire, sized properly to handle the circuit. If it seems a relay is in order to handle the pump's amp draw, and voltage drop over the lengths of wire from your fuse box/firewall location for the new relay, to socket at rear of tractor. I suggest studying the info about high amp draw accessories light aux lights, ( similar to your pump's likely amp draw) here, among other places on the net regarding installing relays to drop excessive loads of wiring and fuses:

Using Relays To Wiring Off Road Lights And Accessories


(Also don't use a fuse higher than the pump, or the fuse box's highest rated capacity, in any circuit you build. For the pump ONLY use the required fuse capacity so long as it does NOT surpass the fuse block's rated capacity for any specific fuse slot). You want the fuse, and added relay, to protect your wiring in each circuit, and to blow if there is any overload.
Hope this helps.

 

[sawmillman001]

Thanks, Coyote machine, for the detailed answer.

Re your DK40 fuse box, and mine. I have 4 or 5 "spares" in my panel, but darned if I can see any "fuse blade" slots in these spare spaces. I can't see the blade receivers in the front, or any wire terminals on the rear of these spares, when dismounted for viewing. I contacted my dealer regarding what I found, and their only suggestion was to splice a new wire into a suitable wire coming from the fuse box.
I am reluctant to use this method, and that's why I propose to give the add-a-circuit a try.

If you see that you have a fuse receiver in your spare slot, is there any chance that you could take a close up picture to post here?

Appreciated, sawmillman