Kioti LK3054 replacement starter

[retiredfarmer]

I bought a used Kioti LK3054 as a chore tractor after Thanksgiving from a Kioti dealer The water pump went out about 20 days after I bought it, and I ordered an OEM water pump from the dealer I bought it from. Now the starter has a short circuit. The water pump was just under $300 with gasket and shipping. The price listed for a new OEM starter is $634. I am tempted to buy a Mando aftermarket starter from All States Ag Parts for $145. Has anyone used the aftermarket starter? I'm having a hard time paying $634 plus shipping for a starter for a 1998 tractor.

 

[Kioti Paul]

That does sound like a brutal price! Are you really sure it is a bad starter?? In my experience, starters get a lot of blame that turn out to be a bad battery, or battery cable connection. If it is a bad starter, most medium sized cities (& a lot of small towns) have a "starter/generator" shop that can repair starters - regardless of what is wrong with them; and do it for A LOT less than $600.

Maybe tell us what your symptoms are, what checks you have done?

I have no experience with Mando brand starters, but I wouldn't hesitate to go with that, rather than paying $600+ for OEM. (just my opinion)

For what it is worth, a lot of mechanic/machine shops can repair water pumps. I am not familiar with your particular tractor's water pump, but assuming you still have the old one, it might be worth checking around to see if it could be repaired. Usually it is the bearings and/or seal that go bad, and those items are "generic".

Best of luck!

 

[retiredfarmer]

That does sound like a brutal price! Are you really sure it is a bad starter?? In my experience, starters get a lot of blame that turn out to be a bad battery, or battery cable connection. If it is a bad starter, most medium sized cities (& a lot of small towns) have a "starter/generator" shop that can repair starters - regardless of what is wrong with them; and do it for A LOT less than $600.

Maybe tell us what your symptoms are, what checks you have done?

I have no experience with Mando brand starters, but I wouldn't hesitate to go with that, rather than paying $600+ for OEM. (just my opinion)

For what it is worth, a lot of mechanic/machine shops can repair water pumps. I am not familiar with your particular tractor's water pump, but assuming you still have the old one, it might be worth checking around to see if it could be repaired. Usually it is the bearings and/or seal that go bad, and those items are "generic".

Best of luck!

The starter has continuity between the positive terminal (after the solenoid) and the starter housing when off the tractor.

Yes, I kept the old water pump to have rebuilt.

 

[K5lwq]

I agree with Kioti Paul. I have had good luck with local starter rebuild shops. I had my local one rebuild the alternator on my 2554 about 7 years ago and it's still going strong. :thumbsup:

 

[Kioti Paul]

It is not possible (practical) to test the starting circuit with an ohm meter. You must use the voltmeter, and look for voltage drop. Describing the procedure is a little long winded; if you are interested let me know & I will go through it.

 

[retiredfarmer]

I also put a red jumper cable to the positive terminal and the black to the housing, then the other ends to the battery and it arced but did not spin???

 

[retiredfarmer]

Good advice. I'm going to take this to a Starter/Alternator shop and have it tested. I have just enough electrical knowledge to be dangerous.

One curious thing is that the Glow Plugs will work and the dash lights come on with the ign switch turned one way, but when you turn the ign to the right there is a faint click and the ign switch seems to go dead (no idiot dash lights when turned to the left and no glow plug activity).

After a short period of time you can repeat the cycle, like there is a self-resetting relay somewhere. Previous owner did replace an inline fuse in the harness just forward of the starter with a 30A 12V maybe Relay. It is silver and the fuse cover that used to cover what was there will not fit over the silver 30A 12V part that is in that socket now. I have not investigated what this wire goes to.

 

[Kioti Paul]

Sounds like you might have 2 different 'situations' going on.

The silver, 30A 12v item you described sounds like a bi-metal, self resetting circuit breaker. I am not "up to speed" on your particular model tractor, but my DK45 requires a 60A, slow blow fuse in that position. I would imagine that just the Glow Plugs alone would draw 30 amps, or more.

I am sure someone with direct knowledge of the LK3054 model will let us know what amperage fuse is required. That fuse carries all the electrical current of the tractor (except the starter) so it is quite important to have the correct fuse installed - it also PROTECTS your entire electrical system, which makes it VERY important to have the correct fuse installed.

As far as the starter arcing, but not spinning. Without being there in person, it is very hard to say for sure, but if your jumper cables are actually "booster cables", they will not carry enough current to operate a starter. If they are actually "jumper cables", they will typically work, but they will truly ARC as you connect them. When they first start to spark, most people immediately release the clamp, so it never actually makes full contact. If your cables are copper (NOT aluminum), and have very stiff, heavy clamps (and you actually WANT to try this) then make the connections as you described, with the last connection being to the starter housing (very important!). Usually the bolt flange of the housing gives the best connection. You have to commit to completely releasing the clamp, as 'partially' making a connection is the worst you could do (you will be "arc welding" with jumper cables!!) ALSO, keep the battery & the starter as far apart as the cables will allow, as batteries do give off hydrogen gas as they charge/discharge. ALSO, if/when the starter does spin, it will "jump" quite dramatically; it would be best to have a second set of hands to hold it (if you have ever "snuck" upon, and grabbed an armadillo,,,,same sensation!)

It really would be best to take it to someone with experience!

 

[ritcheyvs]

I don't have any tech data on the 3054, but extrapolating from CK/DK experience ...
1. Actual starter failure is rare. I don't recall any starting failures that actually turned out to be the starter, although there is always a first time.
2. Key switch problems are very common. Often a few shots of WD40 or contact cleaner in the key hole (followed by cycling the switch several times) will restore function. New switches are available but old switches can also be cleaned, re-lubricated, and reassembled if you are careful to observe (preferably photo) disassembly and none of the springs escape.
3. Power for everything except the emergency flashers (and starter motor) goes through that key switch so a wonky switch can cause weird symptoms.
4. Replacing a fuse with a relay makes no sense. A fuse protects against excess current. A relay switches power. The proper fuse (by the way) is a common automotive (like Autozone) item. Maybe previous owner rigged a relay for some other purpose but it is not good (i.e. dangerous) to eliminate that fuse. Power for everything but the starter should be protected by that fuse.
5. There is a "brute force" test for the battery, battery cables, and starter. See here. This test is useful to isolate starting problems to the actual starter circuit or the control/safety circuits (relays, safeties, key switch, wires) that normally control the starter.
6. Failed battery cables (corrosion inside insulation) are a common Kioti problem. Such cables will often allow the low power systems to work but won't pass enough current to run the starter.

 

[retiredfarmer]

You guys were right.Took the starter to a shop. It’s good.

Looks like I’m needing to go thru Ritcheyvs’s list.

Thank you. I’ll post the solution and a picture of the questionable relay.