Kraken Spray Foam?

[dstig1]

I recently used closed cell spray foam cans (20 oz each) to insulate a Ford Transit Cargo van. They actually worked really well for my use. I bought a kit off Amazon for $275(?) that was 12 cans, gun with adjustable rotating nozzle, zoot suit, mask, goggles.



The big difference in using the closed cell cans is there isn't much expansion at all. Maybe 2:1, 3:1 at most. Why? Because the foam in the can is already mixed with the 2 parts. The "propane tank" kit doesn't mix the chemicals until it hits the gun nozzle. Thus the higher expansion rate. These cans are filled with the foam pretty much already expanded.

Single component and 2-component urethane foams are different chemistries (related but different). The foam isn't "pre expanded" in the can, it just needs exposure to air (and mainly moisture in the air, IIRC) to foam and cure.

That van looks like the kind of thing that is a small enough area for these smaller cans to be appropriate, IMO. Good to see you were able to get a decently uniform coating, so perhaps it is a possibility for the OP, but I still think it is a bit impractical there.

 

[mikester]

It's a messy job and the chemicals are bad for your lungs and overall health. I've used the two cylinder foam kits once and now say never again. I'd hire a guy with the proper equipment and let them get the job done.

 

[LouNY]

There is a product for sealing the side seams that you have on foam board. I've never used it but it seems like it would work well to seal the small gaps that you always get when trying to fit the ridgid panels of insulation together.
It's called Gapotape, it's a foam tape that seals the side seams when you try and fit foam board insulation in.
Gapogroup ltd

 

[paulsharvey]

Well, a year later, I might as well give an update. I finally bit the bullet and ordered the 2 can, 1 cleaner, and gun pack for like $87. Used the 2 cans of foam, both on awkward parts of the cieling/underside if the roof, where rigid foam either would be a pain to attach or where it had odd wires/ect. The foam went about as far as advertised maybe, I covered more square feet, but not at a full 1".

Several observations; it isn't too bad, but it is hard to get a consistent/even thickness; if you overlap previous spray, you get thick areas; if you don't, the outside edge of the "fan" is thin.

In tight areas, the cieing nozzle is good, and bad; if you turn the gun/can too vertical, it doesn't spray well; but you can get in areas that would be difficult to cut/fit/seal with rigid.

It doesn't expand as much as maybe I hoped; but I'm thinking it did help a lot on air sealing.

I haven't made up my mind on picking up 6 more cans; or getting some more rigid foam, but for the walls; it's gonna be rigid and maybe traditional spray foam on the seams.

It isn't that messy; but it's a fine overspray of foam that gets on you and everything else.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the update. I have an area on my garage addition where the valley from the roof makes it very tight for insulation. I'm debating my options. I think spray foam will be the best choice, but I'm still not convinced it's a good DIY project.

 

[paulsharvey]

Thanks for the update. I have an area on my garage addition where the valley from the roof makes it very tight for insulation. I'm debating my options. I think spray foam will be the best choice, but I'm still not convinced it's a good DIY project.

Your not wrong; but the issue is for spray foam IMO; for large areas, there are cheaper options; for small areas, mobilizing a contractor is expensive. So, I'm not entirely sure where spray foam really fits. The air seal is great; but strictly R value, there are cheaper, better, options.

I think it's place is in retro-fitting insulation in structures that weren't originally built with the intent to condition, so, they have air gaps, no insulation, and irregular cavity openings.

 

[paulsharvey]

Not saying all pole structures; but most I've seen/built/worked on/in; nothing is very square, truss/purlions aren't spaced evenly, and people don't focus on a tight envelope

 

[gstrom99]

I paid a pro, to do my pole barn. Not cheap. It sounds like you're done but if someone is going to be doing it themselves (smaller area or rim parts of a house...), DuPont sells a DIY kit, with a good wide spray nozzle. Avail at all the big box stores, eBay and Amzn.

DuPont Froth-Pak™: High Performance Spray Foam Sealant and Insulation Products

www.frothpak.dupont.com

 

[LouNY]

I had a vaulted ceiling in my house spray foamed. It was a very good investment so far. Watching the roof this past winter the hot spots that used to melt the snow off fast were gone. The good thing about the closed cell foam is that it is non porous so it seals and stops all the air flow and gaps.
One thing that surprised me was the sound transmission through the closed cell foam, I can hear the rain on a shingled roof now.
If I was doing it again I'd use the closed cell foam for 2-3 inches then fill the cavity with open cell as the open cell should not transmit the noise as much.
I wouldn't hesitate to spray foam a steel roofed pole barn, around here because of the temperature swings a steel roof will condense moisture and sweat, the closed cell foam should prevent that from happening.
In an open barn that the damned birds can get in the foam would need to be covered with something to prevent nesting in it, screen or wire mesh at least.

 

[paulsharvey]

Vaulted cielings are a good use case too. You can't really do blown insulation, and bats don't always stay put over time if the vaulted part is steep.