3" dia with a 1 1/2" dia rod having a working length of 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" similar to the unit on the left that is pictured is what I typically provide and not had a single complaint. This is the correct working length. I apologize for listing the longer length previously, that was-is for the next larger frame size.Not sure on hydraulic top link length so maybe someone here has installed one and knows the proper size.I'm thinking maybe 18-26" anyone know for sure ?
As you seem to already know, this is one of those times to make sure what size you are getting and thus avoiding sorrow later. I have used an hydraulic top link for many years now. They are not cheap ($400 ballpark + or -) and several features matter. They get stressed a lot in normal use and you will find it extremely handy in ways you never planned. For length -- measure your original manual top link and decide what is the shortest and longest you could imagine ever wanting it to be fully contracted and fully extended. Then add a few inches of range between shortest and longest for unknown future needs. For diameter/size Mtn View obviously has the sales experience with these things and I agree that the bigger the better for durability, capacity, and strength. I was not aware that Kubotas as large as the 7040 had top link anchor width issues at the pin but the smaller Kubotas (like my B2150's certainly do.) Measure and buy accordingly. I don't like grinding to fit something brand new but you might have to. That is not a killer issue. There is no reason to spend more than $400-$500 for a good sturdy one of these and they can probably be had for less. Because they are so widely available you should be able to shop around.Not sure on hydraulic top link length so maybe someone here has installed one and knows the proper size.I'm thinking maybe 18-26" anyone know for sure ?
Thanks JWR. I plan on shopping around for the best price but not going to sacrifice quality in the least for expense. Buy a good product and buy only once .As you seem to already know, this is one of those times to make sure what size you are getting and thus avoiding sorrow later. I have used an hydraulic top link for many years now. They are not cheap ($400 ballpark + or -) and several features matter. They get stressed a lot in normal use and you will find it extremely handy in ways you never planned. For length -- measure your original manual top link and decide what is the shortest and longest you could imagine ever wanting it to be fully contracted and fully extended. Then add a few inches of range between shortest and longest for unknown future needs. For diameter/size Mtn View obviously has the sales experience with these things and I agree that the bigger the better for durability, capacity, and strength. I was not aware that Kubotas as large as the 7040 had top link anchor width issues at the pin but the smaller Kubotas (like my B2150's certainly do.) Measure and buy accordingly. I don't like grinding to fit something brand new but you might have to. That is not a killer issue. There is no reason to spend more than $400-$500 for a good sturdy one of these and they can probably be had for less. Because they are so widely available you should be able to shop around.