Kubota Brake Adjustment: FAIL

[avc8130]

I figured there was nothing better to do in the middle of Hurricane Irene than to do the 600 hour service on my L39. At 606 hours it seemed like perfect timing. I got through EVERYTHING...but the brake adjustment. Both turn buckles will not budge. I backed off the lock nuts and tried to give them a twist and they resist. I am using a standard length 14mm wrench and exerting pretty much all I can on them. Then I put a pipe on the wrench and gave it a whirl. No dice. I didn't go balls out on the pipe, since it just didn't feel "right" and I don't want to break anything. I gave them a shot of penetrating oil and decided "the brakes still work" for the time being. Any suggestions?
ac

 

[art]

Not the first time we've seen that! Make sure all the paint is cleaned away and just spray it again.

 

[johnk]

I figured there was nothing better to do in the middle of Hurricane Irene than to do the 600 hour service on my L39. At 606 hours it seemed like perfect timing. I got through EVERYTHING...but the brake adjustment. Both turn buckles will not budge. I backed off the lock nuts and tried to give them a twist and they resist. I am using a standard length 14mm wrench and exerting pretty much all I can on them. Then I put a pipe on the wrench and gave it a whirl. No dice. I didn't go balls out on the pipe, since it just didn't feel "right" and I don't want to break anything. I gave them a shot of penetrating oil and decided "the brakes still work" for the time being. Any suggestions?
ac

Let me know how you make out. I have the same problem. Can't budge the turnbuckle. I guess I'll get the propane torch out if the penetrating oil doesn't loosen it up.

 

[Ductape]

Let me know how you make out. I have the same problem. Can't budge the turnbuckle. I guess I'll get the propane torch out if the penetrating oil doesn't loosen it up.

My suggestion also....... heat if penetration oil doesn't work.

 

[ayelvington]

Please post a photo of where you're working. I know that on the BX series the only way to make the adjustment is to remove the cotter pin holding the rear end of the turnbuckle to the chassis, and then you can rotate the turnbuckle.

 

[avc8130]

Please post a photo of where you're working. I know that on the BX series the only way to make the adjustment is to remove the cotter pin holding the rear end of the turnbuckle to the chassis, and then you can rotate the turnbuckle.

On the L39 it APPEARS to be a real turnbuckle:
Turnbuckle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Where 2 threaded rods enter a common female threaded sleeve. It APPEARS as though turning the sleeve should lengthen or shorten the overall length. This is inline with what the manual says.

I think it is time to break out the propane...followed by the MAPP...and eventually the acetylene.

ac

 

[ayelvington]

If you can release the rod that's attached to the chassis, you might be surprised to see how well it works. The assembly on the BX worked easily when I did that.

 

[avc8130]

If you can release the rod that's attached to the chassis, you might be surprised to see how well it works. The assembly on the BX worked easily when I did that.

I'll look into that. If I remove only 1 side, then the link would not be shortened equally from each side. Removing both sides looks like a significant undertaking.

 

[ayelvington]

trust me, the turnbuckle on my BX was an odd creature indeed. I was able to adjust it without difficulty when I got one end free.

 

[Mikeeemo]

I have the same problem. Dealer quoted $100 in parts to fix it. I will be applying heat, soon.

 

[PoorPlowboy]

I have the same problem. Dealer quoted $100 in parts to fix it. I will be applying heat, soon.

That dealer only employs parts-swappers and not mechanics, then. There is a difference. The turnbuckle will not turn while its "loaded." That is by design so that it will retain the adjustment and not adjust itself. Unload/disconnect either end and it will turn.

 

[avc8130]

That dealer only employs parts-swappers and not mechanics, then. There is a difference. The turnbuckle will not turn while its "loaded." That is by design so that it will retain the adjustment and not adjust itself. Unload/disconnect either end and it will turn.

Which end are you supposed to disconnect? The service manual says to just adjust. Both ends are pretty buried without taking some other stuff apart.
ac

 

[johnk]

Free at last. Pulled out the cotter pins and pins and got the turnbuckle assembly free from the tractor. I put Kroil on the threads for three days.Put the turnbuckle in my vise and tried to spin each threaded rod with a pipe wrench. Felt like the rods were on the verge of twisting or breaking. Broke out the propane torch and applied heat for about 5 minutes to turnbuckle and rod. Put the wrench to it and no go. Reheated once again then grabbed with channel locks and put the turnbuckle on the flat part of the vise. Tapped on all the flats of the turnbuckle with a 2# hammer. Placed in vise again, reheated and commenced to torqing the threaded shaft. Alas. A loud squeak and then movement. A little more Kroil and wiggling back and forth and finally freed the threads. Same for other side. Very close to twisting the rod or snapping it. Finally it worked out for once. Time and patience got it done. Brakes are now adjusted. Hard part was getting out the cotter pins and releasing the turnbuckle assembly. Good Luck with yours...

 

[Mikeeemo]

Good pictures. That is exactly the design of mine. You saved $52.00 a side, in parts. Should of had anti-seize on the threads, from the beginning.

 

[Redbug]

I went out to adjust my brakes and guess what? Mine are frozen up, too! I was afraid I was going to break something with the force I was putting on the turnbuckles. So, I guess I will undo the cotter pins and use the vise and propane torch in the morning. That's a good idea about using the anti-seize, John.

 

[johnk]

You'll still have to put a ton of force on that little turnbuckle even with the heat. I thought something was going to break. I used a 12"pipe wrench and crescent wrench to get it to budge. After it moved a 1/16 inch one way I kept moving it back and forth and kept appyling Kroil. Let me know how you make out...Good Luck.

 

[Redbug]

Well, I took my brake turnbuckles rods off and got them all fixed up and back on again. The two rods are held on by cotter pins. The bottom pins are easy to take off. The top ones were buggers...until I took the plastic dash cowling off. Only four bolts holding it. Then they were easy to access.

Looking at the turnbuckles, they had some rust on the threads where moisture got in. I wire brushed the threads and put anti-seize on them and put everything back together. All works smoothly again.

To do your brake adjustment, do you adjust the rods shorter or longer?

 

[johnk]

I adjusted each of them to .6 to .8 inches as the manual described. I believe I shortened them as the tunbuckle seemed to show less thread...

 

[Redbug]

Thank you John! You guys on TBN are sure lifesavers. I will shorten mine a tad and try them out to see. Thanks!

 

[attaboy]

Let me know how you make out. I have the same problem. Can't budge the turnbuckle. I guess I'll get the propane torch out if the penetrating oil doesn't loosen it up.

I have an ole L285 .. figured I should do a brake adjust .. in case I can't use the FEL or rear implement to keep from rolling with engine idling.. hehehe. Now on the L285 anyway .. the turnbuckles are solid .. not slotted like alot of hardware store stuff. Mine wouldn't budge either .. even after a couple of doses of PB.

As it turns out .. adjustment was not possible, because the two links were actually Bottomed Out .. inside the turnbuckle itself .. invisible of course from the outside. In my case ... no amount of heat or PB is gonna solve this .. needs a brake job I guese .. kinda put on the back burner since aquiring my Jinma 354 here. As I recall .. p+l was quoted something like $700 for brake job on an L285 .. parts was the larger portion.

PB "Blaster" is totally awesome stuff .. and Permatex Neversieze goes on everthing put back together unless specifically verboten .. where super accurate re-torquing is indicated (head bolts etc.).