Kubota engine oil -- a quality product?

[gsxr1100]

It should be good quality oil, but I do not have any original un-used test data on the oil. It could be or not be.

Like someone else stated, I also like a good synthetic oil that is high in ZDDP.

What are the levels of Magnesium, Boron , Calcium, P, Zn and so fourth. In other words, how is the additive package? Good TBN? What are the viscosity levels are a certain number of hours since this will affect the OXD along with other things??

I would say Kubota oil should be good but Kubota does not make oil. Find out who makes it before then re-package it.

 

[Youare]

I went to the dealership where I purchased my Kubota to get oil and a filter. I didn't want to use any other product than what they specified because of warrantee concenrs.

Much to my delight they sold me a Castrol product. I questioned why they didn't sell me Kubota oil and they said this oil was what they used in all diesel engines they sold.

I would like to think all major brand name oils that meet certian specs would work fine. For some of us brand loyality is an extra measure of comfort.

Change the oil and filter at the proper intervals with the right stuff and all should be well.

Randy

 

[gsxr1100]

Most should be fine but I would still pay attention to some area for diesels

Magnesium should be around 800 ppm
Boron around 80 to 100ppm
Calcium to be 2100
P around 1,000
Zn around 1100 in general.

Also need a good TBN to prevent acid formation.

 

[_RaT_]

I concour with SoundGuy. My first thoughts when I saw this post was, "Hey, it's stinkin oil". Most any 15W40 oil you decide to to pour down your mighty diesel will in the end not only work exceptionally well, but in the end will probably not have any differing attributes to your motor during your lifetime. I often think many folks over think their oil.

 

[familyman]

Since I've gotten rid of the bottles I can't check these numbers w/o going to the dealership. I will be switching to a synthetic, probably Amsoil, at the 100 hr. mark. I've had poor luck with Valvoline engine oil in the past; I had a '78 Ford F250 with a 400 engine with 120K+ miles. Burned a quart every 1K or so, depending on the oil I used ! Valvoline and Havoline both went through the motor like water -- a quart every 500 miles, and seemed to get dirty faster. Castrol lasted the longest, with Pennzoil, Mobil and Quaker State somewhere in-between.
I recognize that diesels are different animals than gas engines in their oil requirements. I seem to remember from my youth that diesels I drove and changed oil on were spec'd to use straight 30wt. The reason I recall was that diesels ran hotter and stressed an oil more, and the multiweights of the day couldn't handle it. Maybe that's changed.

Charley

 

[BobCorazza]

Go with the Amsoil 15w40 diesel / marine, 10w40, or 5w30 diesel oil and don't look back!
Right now I have the 10w40 in the kubota, but plan on switching to 5w30 diesel and extending the change intervals. I also run a bypass filter on the engine oil that works very well.

 

[gsxr1100]

Familyman- I doubt the dealer will know this numbers; unless they have some test un-used oil.

Since I am only been using diesel since 1996, they really do not run hot. They do add more stress in the form of acids, fuel, soot,etc.

Some diesel oils have a great additive package and some are less to be desired. Yes, it was the theory that multi-weight were not as good as the straight oils, but this has changed I feel. Now the additives and base stocks are pretty good.

I have used Amsoil since 1994 and while there oils are pretty good I do not always go by there advertising since all cars, trucks etc are different.

I use their 15w-40 HDD&M since their series 3000 5w30 it really not needed. You can do extended oil drains using both and the Series 3000 will have a better Calcium (I think like 400ppm more), Phosphorus is the same or within 5ppm, Zinc is about 15ppm higher in S3000 and Boron is more also (24ppm). Lastly the S3000 is about 0.6 high in TBN.

This is why many Amsoil oils are not approved by the API. For example, the Phosphorus I believe needs to be limited to 1,000 ppm. I think it is an EPA thing but you want Phosphorus since it protects well.

It is a little better oil, but I do not think in my own head I can justify 2X the price for this slight advantage.

 

[wvhillbilly]

Has anybody ever considered Amsoil full synthetic?? That is what I am planning on using at my 50 hour change. I was always a skeptic. You know, not changing your vehicle's oil for 25,000 miles or at 1 year, whichever comes first. I would call that neglect. Kubota says change engine oil every 100 hours I think it is. At the rate I am going, that is gonna be just about once a year. I was on Amsoil's web page and the stuff seems to be pretty good stuff. I'll try it out. Plan on using their 80W-90 gear oil for the front axle too.
Dave

 

[MikePA]

I use nothing but Amsoil (hydraulic oil and engine oil) in my TC25D. Works fine. Also, are you sure that your front axle uses gear oil? I ask because the front axle on my tractor uses hydraulic fluid.

 

[SeymourBota]

I am running Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 Diesel engine oil in my B2410. I run Amsoil in all my other vehicles and have yet to find one of their products that wasn't top quality.