Kubota Factory Rep?

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>… I also believe in extra terrestrials (though I'm sure I'll never see one)…</font color=blue>

Rogue...no it's not from my family album... some likeness however.../w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[PaulT]

John,

Sorry for the delayed response. I live in Vestal, just south of Binghamton. My dealer is Goodrich Implements in Johnson City, although I purchased my tractor from Keys in Clarion, PA (they deliver!).

Paul

PaulT

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hey Paul. it's Pete, these are problems which your local selling dealer would be more than happy to deal with had you bought there! That is how we help people justify the few extra bucks we get than Keys or others far away. No need for a factory rep when ya deal with us! hehe That said, tighten the 4 base bolts on your ROPS, they require more torque to be tightened properly than the air ratchet most set up guys use. As far as the leaky loader hoses go, internal hydraulic pressure sometimes tweak the hoses and loosen them a little after initial set up and require some tightening after a few hours. this condition is not just Kubota specific. As a rule, I usually stop by MY customers house within 1 or 2 weeks of delivery to share a beer or a Dr. Pepper, tighten some hoses, and let them vent a frustrations at me, so they don't have to on the internet, but time = money and, well never mind! How's the box blade working out? Give a holler!

 

[PaulT]

Hey Pete,

Good to see you here!! The box blade is working like a charm. Now if I only had a tiller... With regard to the ROPS, you made a suggestion that others have also been saying - tighten the bolts at the base to the torque specs. Someone here mentioned 110 ft lbs, so I did that (I have a torque wrench). As someone else said, all that did was to begin squeezing the outer tube to fit the inner tube (but not enough to take out the clearance gap, that would have required HUGE amounts of bolt torque, and deformed the tube).

Anyway, the day I bought the box blade, I checked out the 2910 you have there - with the same ROPS I have. It has the exact same rattle problem. Your comment was that they all do it, but readers of this board indicate that theirs generally don't rattle. Any thoughts??

BTW - As you probably already know, I agree that your extra attention is worth something extra in the price. I guess the art of the deal is to try to find what that extra value is worth, both to you AND to me.

PaulT

 

[ljh2]

I believe someone else here, kubmech maybe, said something about some missing spacers. You might look into that.

Larry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Paul, I'll check with Rhino (the tech) tomorrow, usually all the Big B's rattle a little 'cuz the guys just use an air ratchet to tighten, but then they do it by hand and tighten 'em up to stop rattling. Pete

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Paul, Rhino says "ignore the torque specs," if you want the rattle to stop, use a large socket and wrench and tighten until the outside conforms to the inside. He is about 6'2" 380lbs, and says "I can't break them, so average guys won't!"
He also says "it's obvious that l didn't set up that 2910 out front or the ROPS wouldn't rattle!

 

[r0GuE]

I did read that missing spacers are the problem. DON'T just crank harder! Find out about the spacers, for that matter, get a new ROPS from the dealer (I'm sure he'll help you out! ;^) overtorque could stress the member and make it less structually sound. Of that I am certain! I also have a reasonable amount of confidence in the Kubota engineers. My guess is that the original dealer that sold that tractor has dozens of them since he doesnt bother using them because they are probably hard to fit in there (too tight, to keep the rattles down!)
Whatever you do, use caution. This system is not a cup holder (while I admit at first glance it appears simple). The engineers spent alot of litigation protection time in that bar.

Rogue