Kubota...Kioti????

[davitk]

I still think Kubota comes in a prettier shade of Orange

 

[ChuckinNH]

Post #41, and we are finally getting down to the important stuff!!

 

[2Botas]

I shopped kyoti, kubota, mahindra, and john deere. They are all very nice units. I researched online and compiled a list of resale values on compact tractors (25-35hp range. I didnt research SCUTs)that were about 5 years old and had average hours on them. I was shocked to find that JD didnt lead this race. I figured that john deere would hold its resale the best. JD still did very well. What I found was that a used kubota was worth as much as a equivalent used John Deere. Considering John Deere tractors cost around 12% more new, I didnt expect to see this. Kyoti still held its value pretty well, but lost around 16% more value than the kubota's.

Just a side note-John Deere tractors in the "ag" catagorie hold there value ALOT better than a Kubota. But, It seems Kubota takes the cake in the "compact" catagorie.

Not to say my research is "Concrete" But i did spend about 6 hours going through internet tractor classifieds and dealer inventorys to gain my data. I change my toys around every couple of years, so resale is VERY important to me.

IMO if you are going to keep the tractor for 20 years, you might as well save some $ up front and get a kyoti or mahindra. If you think there is potential of a new tractor in 5 years, get the bota, it will end up saving you a little in the end.

 

[canoetrpr]

2Botas - that makes a lot of sense. When one is looking for used, people tend to treat major brands the same and look only at things like: what is the HP?, does it have a loader or not?, 4WD or not?, how many hours? what shape are the tires in?

 

[Builder]

I shopped kyoti, kubota, mahindra, and john deere. They are all very nice units. I researched online and compiled a list of resale values on compact tractors (25-35hp range. I didnt research SCUTs)that were about 5 years old and had average hours on them. I was shocked to find that JD didnt lead this race. I figured that john deere would hold its resale the best. JD still did very well. What I found was that a used kubota was worth as much as a equivalent used John Deere. Considering John Deere tractors cost around 12% more new, I didnt expect to see this. Kyoti still held its value pretty well, but lost around 16% more value than the kubota's.

Just a side note-John Deere tractors in the "ag" catagorie hold there value ALOT better than a Kubota. But, It seems Kubota takes the cake in the "compact" catagorie.

Not to say my research is "Concrete" But i did spend about 6 hours going through internet tractor classifieds and dealer inventorys to gain my data. I change my toys around every couple of years, so resale is VERY important to me.

IMO if you are going to keep the tractor for 20 years, you might as well save some $ up front and get a kyoti or mahindra. If you think there is potential of a new tractor in 5 years, get the bota, it will end up saving you a little in the end.

I'm not shocked with those findings. I was sooo close to buying an M-4900 4x4 cab utility tractor. In that size rangeor larger, JD was way more expensive. The higher the HP, the more JD held it's value compared to Kubota. When the tractors dropped below 45-50HP, Kubota held more value than JD. 45HP seemed to be the "break point". I was seeing Kubota L-4730's 5030's, M-4900's etc. with 4x4, cab & FEL for as low as $21-24,000. The similar model Deeres I couldn't touch for less than $30,000.

Once you drop under 35HP, the Kubotas seem to equal or do a little better than Deere.

 

[lawn_king]

Dont rule out the loyalty factor. Mt last tractor was a kubota, my current tractor is a kubota. Both machines were great no serious problems ever. Chances are my next tractor will be a kubota even if its a few grand more than the kioti.

 

[EnviroEd]

I'm looking at the same choice, but from my dealers the prices are very close with the Kubota being the cheapest. I've received a quote on a M5040 with 1153 loader that they will sell new for $23,900. The quote on a DK55 with a Bush Hog loader was $26,000 but it had an extra rear remote and the dealer was going to throw in a canopy so it appears to be only about $1000 difference with the Koiti being the higher priced tractor. One thing that's pushing me toward the Kubota is the seat, when I was testing the Koiti my knees were really close to the steering wheel even after adjustments, but I did like some of the other features of the Koiti.
I'm going tomorrow to test the Kubota again and see how the Dealer treats me because the Koiti dealer seemed great.
I want to thank all the people here for taking the time for this site because I have used this site for "alot" of research and have received some great information.

 

[2Botas]

I'm looking at the same choice, but from my dealers the prices are very close with the Kubota being the cheapest. I've received a quote on a M5040 with 1153 loader that they will sell new for $23,900. The quote on a DK55 with a Bush Hog loader was $26,000 but it had an extra rear remote and the dealer was going to throw in a canopy so it appears to be only about $1000 difference with the Koiti being the higher priced tractor. One thing that's pushing me toward the Kubota is the seat, when I was testing the Koiti my knees were really close to the steering wheel even after adjustments, but I did like some of the other features of the Koiti.
I'm going tomorrow to test the Kubota again and see how the Dealer treats me because the Koiti dealer seemed great.
I want to thank all the people here for taking the time for this site because I have used this site for "alot" of research and have received some great information.

In your situation i would choose the kubota. Not to say the Kioti wouldnt be a good choice, they make great tractors. But if the kioti is more expensive new, it is going to cost you more $ to own than the kubota. It should be less expensive new than a new bota. It is like paying more for a Kia when you could have got an equivelent Toyota for less money. Both vehicles are likely to give you years of trouble free service, and perform tasks equally well. But when it comes time to sell, you would be better off with the machine that has the best reputation, and most recognized name.

 

[wallace]

This is a tuff subject in my opinion...
The way the compact market has been going we are starting to see a flood of tractors into the fields and that will also drive down the resale value.
I know I have a 2003 New Holland TC40 TLB on my lot for $19,500 and I still have the customers that will walk around it and buy a brand new machine because of the financing and warranties.

I also think that this deal with Bobcat and Daedong (kioti) is really going to help the resale value of the Kioti.

This subject can be hashed for the rest of our lifes but I still say buy what fits your needs more.
Also remember you are not just buying a tractor you are buying the dealership.

In regards to the Kubota M5040 virses the DK55 Kioti...it's not really a fair match the Kioti does tower over the Kubota...
But on the other hand I am not the one buying.

 

[milkman]

I keep hearing things like Brand X has better specs on the loader, and Brand Y has greater lift on the TPH, but a lot of people just look at the numbers. It would sure be a lot simpler tractor shopping if everybody rated these numbers at the same point. Neil pointed out in another thread that some rate the lift capacity at the loader pins and some at a more realistic point where the load would be, same with the TPH. New tractor shoppers and some that have been there before seem to miss this important little point and buy a machine that they think will out perform another color or shade and then not even know that they got less than they thought.

 

[Dargo]

I do have to comment that I think this thread has been extremely civil; something that seemed impossible in a similar thread a few years ago. So perhaps more than the quality of Kioti has changed.

 

[tydp]

1982 19" Murray push mower (upgraded to B&S 8 hp engine!)
1978 Ford pickup, stick shift, 300ci 6 cyl
1973 14'X52' with skirting and concrete steps
2006 Harbor Freight claw hammer
2007 Wire brush with wood handle
-in the works-
Chicago Electric 4" grinder


Dargo, GREAT signature. I "understand" the show......

 

[rtimgray]

I keep hearing things like Brand X has better specs on the loader, and Brand Y has greater lift on the TPH, but a lot of people just look at the numbers. It would sure be a lot simpler tractor shopping if everybody rated these numbers at the same point. Neil pointed out in another thread that some rate the lift capacity at the loader pins and some at a more realistic point where the load would be, same with the TPH. New tractor shoppers and some that have been there before seem to miss this important little point and buy a machine that they think will out perform another color or shade and then not even know that they got less than they thought.

I see this kind of thing all the time and I wonder to myself (and now to everybody who reads this "Does it REALLY matter what the ratings are?"

Seriously, 3 pt hitch rating matters - or does it? Unless you are talking about larger tractors that you will be hauling round bales or similarly heavy objects with, will it matter what the rating is so long as it lifts your box blade/bushhog/finish mower/ etc. Like I say, the rating is important if you are going to be pushing the limits, but if you are like 90% of the folks on this forum, you are probably only using relatively standard 3 pt attachments that are nowhere near the limit.

Similar but slightly different for loader work - just because the odds of lifting something close to the capacity of the loader is more likely. I have tried to lift things that I can't lift, but mostly its due to breakout type force (which I think is also rated), not total lift capacity. However, I know that on every loader tractor and skid steer loader that I have used, I can get a full bucket of clay/dirt/rock/etc and lift it. Once the bucket is full, I quit trying to lift more.

In a nutshell, I agree - it would make comparisons easier if all manufacturers rated things the same and they all told the truth. In reality, I personally doubt that the manner in which things are rated makes any difference for the majority of users.

Take care.

 

[Builder]

I agree. Too many guys get caught up in the "keyboard racing" part of tractor buying.

Do any of these brands really KILL one another in performance specs & ratings?

When I bought my CASE, I knew some other brands had different specs that were better on theirs and some were better on mine. My decision came down to price and my case being more compact than others so it fits in tighter spots.

It's more important to buy the one you like best and that has the best customer service from the dealer. Price is important, too.

 

[BTI]

It's tough comparing tractors at times. Soooooo many variables.
Something that is important to one person isn't to another etc.
If you take almost any brands "lower cost" model and try to compare it to another brands "loaded" model,
the "loaded" model will lose the price war.
See what feels the best to be on.
We get alot of people that call for pricing without EVER sitting on the tractor.
Which in my opinion is the MOST important thing, as long as it meets your needs.
Just gotta look at, sit on and drive all of them and then decide.

BTI

 

[Podunkadunk]

If I bought anything other than a Kubota, I'd have to get rid of my Kubota ball caps, t-shirts, bobble-heads, calendars, ballpoint pens, bumper stickers, tags and die-casts.

How would I get the sticky-paper-saturated glue off my bumper?

Guess I'll stick with my Kubota.

 

[MossRoad]

If I bought anything other than a Kubota, I'd have to get rid of my Kubota ball caps, t-shirts, bobble-heads, calendars, ballpoint pens, bumper stickers, tags and die-casts.

How would I get the sticky-paper-saturated glue off my bumper?

Guess I'll stick with my Kubota.

And those tatoos....

 

[chh]

It's tough comparing tractors at times. Soooooo many variables.
Something that is important to one person isn't to another etc.
If you take almost any brands "lower cost" model and try to compare it to another brands "loaded" model,
the "loaded" model will lose the price war.
See what feels the best to be on.
We get alot of people that call for pricing without EVER sitting on the tractor.
Which in my opinion is the MOST important thing, as long as it meets your needs.
Just gotta look at, sit on and drive all of them and then decide.

BTI

I almost always call and price a tractor before I go look at it. It takes a lot of driving for me to compare brands. Calling for a price(and of course the availablility of a model that interests me)narrows down the selection and the amount of driving before the physical comparision begins. Thats when I decide who gives me the most bang for my buck. Since I don't finance equipment(or vehicles either for that matter) if the price is not in the ballpark there is no need for me to even look at it. No matter what brand it is or what features it has.

 

[IslandTractor]

I keep hearing things like Brand X has better specs on the loader, and Brand Y has greater lift on the TPH, but a lot of people just look at the numbers. It would sure be a lot simpler tractor shopping if everybody rated these numbers at the same point. Neil pointed out in another thread that some rate the lift capacity at the loader pins and some at a more realistic point where the load would be, same with the TPH. New tractor shoppers and some that have been there before seem to miss this important little point and buy a machine that they think will out perform another color or shade and then not even know that they got less than they thought.

Good point but in fact most companies are pretty open about how they rate their loaders and 3PT hitches, you just have to be careful to compare the correct numbers. Measurement at the pivot point, mid bucket or 500mm in front of the pivot point are all valid measures and should relate to each other mathematically. Bob Skurka used to argue that pivot point could be converted to mid bucket by taking 70% of the PP capacity. Whether the correction factor is 70% or 80% doesn't really matter all that much so long as you compare apples to apples.

As others have noted, the mid bucket figure is probably the most meaningful. Kubota used to only provide mid bucket numbers but I notice that now they also are providing pivot point figures so the companies are also standardizing data to some extent.

 

[wallace]

If I bought anything other than a Kubota, I'd have to get rid of my Kubota ball caps, t-shirts, bobble-heads, calendars, ballpoint pens, bumper stickers, tags and die-casts.

How would I get the sticky-paper-saturated glue off my bumper?

Guess I'll stick with my Kubota.

We sell chippers!!!
Or better yet lets work all of that stuff in on the trade and supply you with new branded materials


Sorry guys I was thinking out loud.