Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ?

   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #11  
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   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #12  
I have an old Ford Hydro Subcompact but looking at upgrading to a new Kubota L2501. Just can't decide on the trans. What do you think? Leaning towards teh Hydro but I like to old style Gear also. Thanks!

In 2020 the L2501/gear is only available in 2-WD according to my local Kubota dealer.



Read this L2501 thread from the T-B-N ARCHIVE:

Foxtail - 10/08/2016

A warning for those considering a Gear Drive Kubota L2501
I want to tell my experience with a Kubota L2501 in case it's useful to anyone considering this tractor, or a L3301. They are wonderful tractors but the buyer should be aware of the following if you're not planning to get a hydrostatic....

First some background: I cut 10 acres of rough land 1-2 times per year. I did this successfully with a John Deere 1023E tractor and 4 foot Frontier RC2048 cutter. The 1023E's ground clearance around the transmission was fairly low, however, and the ride was a bit rough. So I wanted to upgrade this summer. I wanted a Deere 3032E with 5 foot cutter but it ended up being more than I wanted to pay, especially since I am unlikely to ever put that many hours on the tractor. The new Deere 3025E seemed better for my budget, but is not out as of this writing, and in any case my John Deere dealer said it has only 17.4 PTO horsepower and thought that is too little for a 5 foot cutter.

So I talked to Kubota dealers, and they were quite supportive of putting a 5 foot cutter behind a L2501, which has better PTO horsepower than the Deere (and up to 70.2 lb-ft of torque, incidentally, compared to 51.3 for the 3025E and 64.2 for the 3032E; although torque is not probably as important as PTO HP).

I ended up with a Gear Drive Kubota L2501 with 5 foot Land Pride RCR1260 cutter. The gear drive saved maybe $1000 and offered more PTO horsepower (20.5 PTO HP vs 19.0 for the L2501HST). HOWEVER, the gear drive was a big MISTAKE for my situation:

Problem 1: Nonlive PTO. When mowing if you ever need to change a gear or reverse, you must fully depress the clutch pedal, which also shuts off the transmission-driven PTO (and rear cutter). If you are in heavy material and want to slow down or back up, your only choice is to raise the mower and keep going (but not getting the grass cut) or to put the clutch in, bringing the tractor and PTO to a complete stop. (Note that the gear drive L3301 also has nonlive transmission-driven PTO. The L3901 gear drive might have the advantage of a two stage clutch pedal, which can let the PTO keep going as you change gears. However, buyers should check this carefully).

Problem 2: There are only 8 forward gears on the L2501 and they are spaced somewhat widely for mowing. It's hard to find the specs, which are only in the Kubota owner's manual and not online. Here are the details:
Low2 is 1.1 mph (much too slow for mowing except for very heavy conditions)
Low3 is 1.6 mph (very slow for mowing -- much slower than I generally did in my 1023e with a much smaller engine -- but this is the most realistic option for most conditions)
Low4 is 2.8 mph (substantially faster than L3, and generally too fast for mowing for all but the lightest material -- but still may not get a good cut because you're going so fast)
Also: on the L2501 (unlike L3301 as I understand it) there is no shuttle shift, which means that if you want to go from forward to reverse, you have to fully depress the clutch, come to a complete stop, which shuts down the PTO as well, and slowly shift and let your clutch out again. To save the clutch, the PTO and the implement, you really should do all this at fairly low RPM. However, since this action is also how you get the tractor to start moving again, you need some power -- maybe 2000 RPM to get the whole thing to go. Your left leg will really get some strength training!

Anyway, a gear drive L2501, with its transmission-driven PTO and somewhat widely spaced gears, is a little bit like a 1950s type tractor, and is not for everyone! I am sure there is someone out there who loves it, and will promptly tell me I'm just inexperienced. If someone has had a good experience with this tractor, please share.

After nearly 5 hours of frustration, my dealer let me trade up to a L2501HST, which essentially solves the problem. I would not hesitate to recommend the L2501HST to anyone wanting to run 5 foot implements.
 
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   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ?
  • Thread Starter
#14  
In 2020 the L2501/gear is only available with 2-WD according to my local Kubota dealer.



Read this L2501 thread from the T-B-N ARCHIVE:

Foxtail - 10/08/2016

A warning for those considering a Gear Drive Kubota L2501
I want to tell my experience with a Kubota L2501 in case it's useful to anyone considering this tractor, or a L3301. They are wonderful tractors but the buyer should be aware of the following if you're not planning to get a hydrostatic....

First some background: I cut 10 acres of rough land 1-2 times per year. I did this successfully with a John Deere 1023E tractor and 4 foot Frontier RC2048 cutter. The 1023E's ground clearance around the transmission was fairly low, however, and the ride was a bit rough. So I wanted to upgrade this summer. I wanted a Deere 3032E with 5 foot cutter but it ended up being more than I wanted to pay, especially since I am unlikely to ever put that many hours on the tractor. The new Deere 3025E seemed better for my budget, but is not out as of this writing, and in any case my John Deere dealer said it has only 17.4 PTO horsepower and thought that is too little for a 5 foot cutter.

So I talked to Kubota dealers, and they were quite supportive of putting a 5 foot cutter behind a L2501, which has better PTO horsepower than the Deere (and up to 70.2 lb-ft of torque, incidentally, compared to 51.3 for the 3025E and 64.2 for the 3032E; although torque is not probably as important as PTO HP).

I ended up with a Gear Drive Kubota L2501 with 5 foot Land Pride RCR1260 cutter. The gear drive saved maybe $1000 and offered more PTO horsepower (20.5 PTO HP vs 19.0 for the L2501HST). HOWEVER, the gear drive was a big MISTAKE for my situation:

Problem 1: Nonlive PTO. When mowing if you ever need to change a gear or reverse, you must fully depress the clutch pedal, which also shuts off the transmission-driven PTO (and rear cutter). If you are in heavy material and want to slow down or back up, your only choice is to raise the mower and keep going (but not getting the grass cut) or to put the clutch in, bringing the tractor and PTO to a complete stop. (Note that the gear drive L3301 also has nonlive transmission-driven PTO. The L3901 gear drive might have the advantage of a two stage clutch pedal, which can let the PTO keep going as you change gears. However, buyers should check this carefully).

Problem 2: There are only 8 forward gears on the L2501 and they are spaced somewhat widely for mowing. It's hard to find the specs, which are only in the Kubota owner's manual and not online. Here are the details:
Low2 is 1.1 mph (much too slow for mowing except for very heavy conditions)
Low3 is 1.6 mph (very slow for mowing -- much slower than I generally did in my 1023e with a much smaller engine -- but this is the most realistic option for most conditions)
Low4 is 2.8 mph (substantially faster than L3, and generally too fast for mowing for all but the lightest material -- but still may not get a good cut because you're going so fast)
Also: on the L2501 (unlike L3301 as I understand it) there is no shuttle shift, which means that if you want to go from forward to reverse, you have to fully depress the clutch, come to a complete stop, which shuts down the PTO as well, and slowly shift and let your clutch out again. To save the clutch, the PTO and the implement, you really should do all this at fairly low RPM. However, since this action is also how you get the tractor to start moving again, you need some power -- maybe 2000 RPM to get the whole thing to go. Your left leg will really get some strength training!

Anyway, a gear drive L2501, with its transmission-driven PTO and somewhat widely spaced gears, is a little bit like a 1950s type tractor, and is not for everyone! I am sure there is someone out there who loves it, and will promptly tell me I'm just inexperienced. If someone has had a good experience with this tractor, please share.

After nearly 5 hours of frustration, my dealer let me trade up to a L2501HST, which essentially solves the problem. I would not hesitate to recommend the L2501HST to anyone wanting to run 5 foot implements.

That's good information because I am also wrestling with gear vs HST! I like the extra HP at the PTO but i also like the ease of the HST.
 
   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #15  
I just think it folly to buy a tractor with inadequate power just to stay away from emission controls.

Sure there are posts by folks having problems, but when I read between the lines, it appears many either don't educate themselves on the change in operating characteristics, or they are too stubborn to adjust.

Many on here report getting along just find with exhaust after treatment systems.:2cents:
 
   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #16  
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   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #17  
I too was hesitant about the DPF when I was researching a new tractor. I needed the extra HP and went with the L3901 HST and have never looked back. The regen is not a huge deal and I can keep working when it goes into regen.

Many have said to buy enough tractor (weight, HP, etc...) Only you know what that means to you and your intended uses for the tractor you buy. Best of luck :thumbsup:
 
   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #18  
Price difference looks like $ 3, 500
But My real questions is that the 25 HP has no emissions but the 30 Hp does have emissions equipment. It must regen after so many hours.

I went with a 35 rather than a 25 - mainly because I wanted the extra HP, yesterday when I was snow blowing at 2200RPM I noticed the Regen light come on, also noticed a white puff of smoke - the unit has 28hrs - I continued snow blowing, when I was done noticed the light was still on - parked it left it running at 1800RPM - when I got off walking towards the garage I heard it rev up a little - by the time I came back to brush the snow off the light was out - I idled down - shut it off, cleaned it up and backed it into the garage - that seems to be what most have found with the new DPF - most of the time you will not even know - I run mine at high rpm most of the time, mowing / snow blowing etc. - I believe the only reason this one regen'd a little early was due to the cold and fuel additives used in the winter - it's what tractors are now and I'm not seeing a lot of issues with them, I did not worry about it and I am very pleased I went with the 35....
 
   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #19  
   / Kubota L2501 vs L3301 ? #20  
I don't like emissions either, which is why I'm happy to have a newish tractor with emissions reduction equipment. The exhaust is a lot cleaner than the '90s tractor I had before.

There have been a few models of tractor with problematic emissions systems, for example the Kubota B3300. Which they are redesigning. The vast majority of > 25.5hp tractors with DPF or DOC or both run with no problems. Operators need to not leave them idling around a lot and on models that do regen, don't keep disabling regens when the light flashes. It's not hard to do.

Tractors under 75hp have emissions limits that are easier to meet than over 75hp or pickup trucks. There's no EGR or DEF, two of the things that have caused problems in trucks.

19 or 20 pto HP is not a huge amount. If you have a lot of mowing to do you might want a 6' mower. Even with a 5' mower you'd be well short of the 5 hp/foot rule of thumb. If you're going to be mowing high or thick material you may be wanting that power.
 

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