In 2007, an
L3400 HST with FEL, BB, RFM and Rotary Cutter was purchased for about $21k in Middle Tennessee. The tractor is used on a 50 acre parcel that has been left in timber for about 40 acres. Parcel is hilly, with 300 feet of elevation from lowest to highest points. The attachments are Woods RD7200, BB60, and very heavy 6 Box Blade (Can't remember the brand). It has R4 (Commercial) tires not loaded. 506 hours are on the tractor, and in return for the great advice received from Tractor By Net, I'd like to share a review that might help potential buyers.
What has broken:
1) Peep Window for Hydraulic Oil Level - This was a plastic screw in window that made it easy to check fluid level (Located below the seat on the transmission tunnel). I didn't realize it had broken, until Hydraulic fluid had leaked out. It was an easy fix, dealer had the part on a Saturday morning. The part cost about $25, and $50 for Hydraulic fluid.
2) Hydraulic Return Hose - After my son worked the loader to move creek gravel, I got on and noticed a shudder (Jerking) in the loader operation. Googled the problem, and a lot of
L3400 owners posted about it. There's a 90 degree bend in a return line (About the size of a radiator hose), that vibrates a crack on the inside bend. The part cost $35, but was not in stock (Ordered). Install was easy with two hose clamps. Very little Hydraulic fluid leaked out, as this is not a pressurized line.
3) PTO Engage Cable (Shift) - This cable has broken twice. It gets frayed at the top, and eventually will not engage the PTO (Annoying). Evidently, Kubota knows about the problem, and they ship a re-designed shift assembly with the replacement cable. Unfortunately, I was lazy and kept the original shift bracket, so the new cable got frayed and broke again. The cable and new housing ship for about $35 (Parts not in inventory at dealer), so $70 was spent on this issue.
4) PTO Clutches Stick (Biggest Problem) - After about 300 hours, the PTO engage cable could be moved to dis-engage (Off), but the PTO would continue to spin (Dangerous). I googled it (Again), and this is another problem Kubota is known for. Posters say it is due to heat in the clutches (Warping them, so they stick engaged). Fix appears to be expensive, so I've found that if you dis-engage the PTO to off, and drive up to a steep incline (20-25 degrees), then stop and push clutch in, it will usually release (PTO stop spinning). No idea why this works, but it is cheap.
5) HST Rocking Pedal Sensor - At 400 hours, the key was turned, lights came on, but no starter engaged. Charged the battery (Not it). Took the starter off and tested it (Not it). Moved the pedal to center (straight up), and it started right up. Should have Googled it first ($0 cost). There's a sensor on the pedal for safety (I assume).
6) Retractable Seat Belt - Kubota is so proud of these things, I hate to tell them they don't work. Sticks and debris get into the re-coil mechanism, and they stop rewinding. So the belt gets hung over my steering wheel, when I get off. I cleaned out the mechanism one time, but it got blocked in a few days use (No Cost).
7) Tractor Rolled into Creek - OK technically this is not a break, but it was a problem, and since I'm writing the review. It took a come-along snatched to a walnut tree and log chains looped around the ROPS top to bring it up on two wheels and out of the creek bed (Nasty work). No damage. The side fenders, hood and everything were in tact (No bends or dents).
What I'd Do Differently:
1) Load Tires - There have been some really close calls, and I plan to fill the tires this Spring
2) Ag Tires (Possibly) - The R4s wear like iron, and they get traction 99% of the time, but when they break loose on a wet hill side, the ride/slide is not fun.
3) Telescoping Lower Links on 3-Point - The
L3400 does not have telescoping links, so changing out the rotary cutter for the box blade requires a 6-foot pry bar to line up the pins.
4) Deeper Cup Holder - The
L3400 cup holder is rather shallow, so if you put cigars or a cell phone in it, a low branch or jolt will knock them out onto the ground.
5) Cigarette Lighter for 12 volt access - There's no socket for your air pump or iPhone charger
6) Get Rid Of Cruise Control - Never use it. It sounds good, but I like to be in control.
7) Look Closer at Used Tractors - We got new, because I didn't know much about tractors, and had been told stories of snapped front axles (Due to FEL work). In hindsight, those fears weren't justified, and a good used tractor might have been a better option.
What I'd Do The Same:
1) Get a Tractor - Business folks might say averaging 55 hours of use per year, doesn't justify spending $21k on a tractor. You could pay for mowing ($35 per acre) with the interest on $21k; not counting the diesel and maintenance costs. Good point (But I'd still get the tractor).
2) Get A Kubota - It's had annoying breaks, and I believe John Deere, Case, New Holland, Mahindra and others make fine tractors. I'd probably buy the Kubota again, but I'd consider others.
3) Buy An
L3400 - A lot of owners trade their first tractors for larger machines. I would not.
4) No Cab - The ROPS barely fit through low branches, a cab would have been destroyed.
5) Buy From the Same Dealer - My dealer has been great. The salesman explained slip clutches and the value of a rotary cutter (He was right). They've always had my fluids, filters and most parts in stock.
6) Get Advice from Tractor By Net - These folks have been great. The wisdom in this forum is priceless.
