Backhoe Kubota L35 Backhoe removal help

ducatiduke · May 23, 2018

Hi! I bought a used L35 and it appears the backhoe has never been taking off. For the love of all creatures big and small!!!!! Why will my backhoe not come off? I have followed the directions on the actual backhoe to a T (and tried other suggestions with information I found on the Internet) and while I am able to release the set pins with the mount levers, nothing budges when it comes to the backhoe coming off. Mind you it took me about 5 hours to just get the mount levers to break free and move from their posts. Seeing this is the first time attempting this, I used a half can of Kroil soaking everything - From the mount holder, to the mount pins, to the mount levers, etc. I actually backed the large bolts on that are part of the mount holder (I believe) and sprayed Kroil in there. (Side note: Has anyone installed a zerk on the bottom of the mount levers? I really do not want to spend the time again getting these to move). Talk about going from crazy excited to f'ing p*ssed in 2 seconds; After I finally got the second mount lever to break free, I thought I was done. Uggg!

Any suggestions out there?

Grandad4 · May 23, 2018

There is an online parts diagram of the BT900 on the Messick's website, if that's of any help (Kubota BT9 (BACKHOE) Parts Diagrams). It looks like the L35/BT900 uses some kind of clamp with a release lever to hold the backhoe in place to the tractor's subframe. I could well understand that if the previous owner never took the backhoe off, all that stuff is pretty well seized in place.

If you've never done it before, one thing that may not be obvious is that you don't want 1,000+ lbs of steel just falling to the ground when the pins are released, so it's designed so you have to use the boom and outriggers to gently take the load off of the mounting points before things will loosen up. This video shows some guy doing that with a different model, but the concept is the same for any backhoe (KUBOTA L424HST 3 WITH KUBOTA BH92 BACKHOE REMOVAL - YouTube). Different backhoes have slightly different ways of aligning and releasing the tension on the mounting points and you'll have to eyeball your setup to figure out what to do. Mine was similar to the video, where you put downforce on the boom and then you inched the outriggers up so the frame of the backhoe dropped slowly away from the tractor.

Hope this is helpful.

downsizingnow48 · May 23, 2018

I looked at the Messicks online parts diagram too (thank you Messicks). The setup is exactly the same as my B21. I took the backhoe off for the first time after 12 years. A couple days of penetrating fluid and using only hand pressure on the levers, that got it done. The levers, pins, springs, jaws, and moving locking block were all stiff but eventually opened up. After I got the backhoe off, I took all that stuff apart and oiled it up with Fluid Film, it has been easy ever since.

There is a trick to getting the unlocked backhoe up and off of the mounting bar. The instructions on the hoe tell most but not all the story. All I can say is, keep an eye on the locking blocks as you move the hoe up and back, you can see exactly what is going on and what needs to happen.

ducatiduke · May 24, 2018

Grandad4 said:
There is an online parts diagram of the BT900 on the Messick's website, if that's of any help (Kubota BT9 (BACKHOE) Parts Diagrams). It looks like the L35/BT900 uses some kind of clamp with a release lever to hold the backhoe in place to the tractor's subframe. I could well understand that if the previous owner never took the backhoe off, all that stuff is pretty well seized in place.

If you've never done it before, one thing that may not be obvious is that you don't want 1,000+ lbs of steel just falling to the ground when the pins are released, so it's designed so you have to use the boom and outriggers to gently take the load off of the mounting points before things will loosen up. This video shows some guy doing that with a different model, but the concept is the same for any backhoe (KUBOTA L424HST 3 WITH KUBOTA BH92 BACKHOE REMOVAL - YouTube). Different backhoes have slightly different ways of aligning and releasing the tension on the mounting points and you'll have to eyeball your setup to figure out what to do. Mine was similar to the video, where you put downforce on the boom and then you inched the outriggers up so the frame of the backhoe dropped slowly away from the tractor.

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks for you reply. For the life of me, when I click on the link you gave for Messick's, it just goes to

and I can't do anything other than buy it... Ha! I did create and log into my account... I am crazy tired from a long day/week and not getting much sleep and if I am missing something, I apologize.

Grandad4 · May 24, 2018

On my computer, on the left side of the screen you choose one of the subheadings, such as "Chassis" and it brings up the chassis diagram and parts list on the right. I think you have to be logged in with your user id for it to work.

Looked over the pics you posted in that other thread. Looks like a decent tractor with little obvious damage or wear. Tires look virtually new (maybe they are new??). The orange sheet metal has obviously been cleaned up and does not show the same extent of weathering as the grey mechanical areas. That kind of weathering can be basically cosmetic and isn't necessarily indicative of wear and heavy use, but it does suggest the tractor lived outdoors and probably exposed to the elements.

I would be a little concerned about the "dry" look of the grease fittings on the loader and backhoe. While that might be the result of power washing the thing for sale, it more looks to me that all those moving parts rarely, if ever, got any TLC with a grease gun. I would propose you plan to spend some time doing a full service and lube from front to back, getting all the controls, linkages, and moving parts working freely and smoothly. You may find some pins, seals and bushings need replacing due to rust, wear or being seized.

ducatiduke · May 25, 2018

Grandad4 said:
On my computer, on the left side of the screen you choose one of the subheadings, such as "Chassis" and it brings up the chassis diagram and parts list on the right. I think you have to be logged in with your user id for it to work.

Looked over the pics you posted in that other thread. Looks like a decent tractor with little obvious damage or wear. Tires look virtually new (maybe they are new??). The orange sheet metal has obviously been cleaned up and does not show the same extent of weathering as the grey mechanical areas. That kind of weathering can be basically cosmetic and isn't necessarily indicative of wear and heavy use, but it does suggest the tractor lived outdoors and probably exposed to the elements.

I would be a little concerned about the "dry" look of the grease fittings on the loader and backhoe. While that might be the result of power washing the thing for sale, it more looks to me that all those moving parts rarely, if ever, got any TLC with a grease gun. I would propose you plan to spend some time doing a full service and lube from front to back, getting all the controls, linkages, and moving parts working freely and smoothly. You may find some pins, seals and bushings need replacing due to rust, wear or being seized.

I will try that... Regarding the L35, before I did much with it, I did hit every Zerk with a my grease gun until I saw grease coming out a little... I did clean up some of the old grease. I also checked the fluids before I really used it and it seemed fine. I am going to full service and lube and go through it more closely to find and fix anything I see. Thx for your reply!

Edit - I am tired... I completely missed how nice this site works. When you wrote "uses some kind of clamp with a release lever to hold the backhoe in place to the tractor's subframe", which diagram were you looking at? Was it the B00100 MAIN FRAME?

Grandad4 · May 25, 2018

Yes. Looks like the upper mounting points are secured with some kind of clamshell clamp that gets released with a spring-loaded handle or something. Is that what has been giving you fits? Pretty typical stuff on farm and construction equipment. If kept clean, dry and even lubed once in a while it will work forever, but left out in the elements, everything binds up so you just about have to beat on it to get it loose.

Good to hear you already went after it with the grease gun. Work the heck out of any glitchy controls or linkages and they will start to loosen up. There are probably some control cables that are prone to seizing up - mine had them for the PTO engagement, throttle, etc.

Nice shop, by the way, judging from the photos.

ducatiduke · May 25, 2018

Ok.... After a semi good night of sleep and looking further at B00100 MAIN FRAME diagram, we are talking about the same thing.... Yea - Progress! When I originally stated in my first post "release the set pins with the mount levers", those are 140 in the diagram. They are now moving freely back and forth taking the Pin Sets (50) out completely. But as I said originally, nothing happens. Here are the directions I am using and for some reason it is not disconnecting... The plot thickens...

downsizingnow48 · May 25, 2018

You are on the right track. Pins out, good. Levers moving, good. When the levers move they shift a locking block out of the back of the movable jaws that grab onto a cross shaft. The movable jaws are spring operated and will open up off of the cross shaft on their own. UNLESS the jaws are crudded up. If so, the springs are not strong enough to open them. So you need to get good penetrating oil on those jaws (all four of them and both sides of each jaw = 8 applications). Then tap and/or pry with a hammer and punch to get a little movement. It might take a couple days and several tries but eventually those jaws will open up.

also after you move the levers you need to RE-insert the pins to keep the locking blocks from going back into the locked position.

ducatiduke · May 25, 2018

downsizingnow48 said:
You are on the right track. Pins out, good. Levers moving, good. When the levers move they shift a locking block out of the back of the movable jaws that grab onto a cross shaft. The movable jaws are spring operated and will open up off of the cross shaft on their own. UNLESS the jaws are crudded up. If so, the springs are not strong enough to open them. So you need to get good penetrating oil on those jaws (all four of them and both sides of each jaw = 8 applications). Then tap and/or pry with a hammer and punch to get a little movement. It might take a couple days and several tries but eventually those jaws will open up.

also after you move the levers you need to RE-insert the pins to keep the locking blocks from going back into the locked position.

**** I am close... I thought that is what was going on with those springs... I kept saying to myself - they have to do something. I even backed off those 2 large bolts on each side a little to get Kroil to seep inside. But bottom line, they are movable jaws that need to "open" and let go! I can't thank you enough for confirming what I was thinking.... Now I know where to go!!!!!! Wish me luck!!!!!