Kubota L4200 Homemade Cab

[mcd176]

Hello All,

I am in the 1st stages of building a cab for my L4200, I have so far decided to use 1 1/2" steel tube for the main frame and 1" tube for the doors, I have looked at several factory cabs and even on large machines (NH TC75) the factories are using around 1 1/2" tube for the main frames, I plan on using glass from the scrap yards or having it cut custom, and I plan on making a fiberglass roof for the top. One big question I have is what thickness of metal should I use on areas such as around the cowl, the filler panel on the rear ect. I was thinking of 1/16" sheet???? Let me know guys, there are some **** nice homemade cabs on here and i hope mine turns out as well, I will post pics as I make progress.

 

[PILOON]

Hi-
I made my cab, as you plan, using 1 1/2 tube for framing.
For the roof I used (about 1/16) but selected galvanised sheet so I would not need to deal with paint and maintainance issues.
I had a shop cut the sheet wider than the frame and then fold the edges downward at about 45 deg to form a sotra eave to have water drip away from the door pannels.
I also cut the roof longer front and back to cause water to drip away from the windows and would suggest 3" frt and rear would be great.
In other words the roof is oversized!
My roof is fastened simply using 1/4" self taping screws about every 10".
I also fashioned a headliner using 1/4" foam that was sandwitched under a vinyl type material to serve as a headliner.
That cuts down lots of noise and prevents condensation drips.
As you plan to do I used salvaged school bus windows for the front and rear as I mounted wipers on both. (be sure to get the rubber mounting gaskets as it makes for a neet installation)
Again I simply screwed the metal window pannels onto the frame.

reasons for screwing vs welding;
1- did not want welds on galvanised sheets
2- no grinding, sanding and maintanance
3- I could sandwitch the headliner in place

I did acid etch, prime and paint the basic frame before assembly but to this day (some 8 yrs later) the cab is as nice as the day I made it as there are no chips or rust showing anywhere but on the basic tractor I have needed to frequantly touch up the factory paint.

True my cab is kinda 'boxy' looking, but it always looks 'neet and tidy' and is of the lowest maintainance. (and I use it often in the bush which would scratch and mark a paint surface)

On the back, I did hinge the pannel for airation and also made the door remouvable for summer usage.

That foam and headliner really pays off in hot summer as there is no 'oven' effect!

For summer cooling I mounted 2 computer 4" 'muffin fans' (12 vdc) to blow air at me and they also serve to circulate heat in the winter as well as defrost my windows.

Good luck with your project!

If I were to do it all over again, well I might tilt the front winshield to create a more 'rakish' look and maybe the rear as well, but then I have what I have and it does the job!

 

[mjncad]

I'd go with 16ga sheet steel (approx. 1/16" thick), or 18ga at a minimum.

How are you planning on cutting the sheet metal? Nibbler, shears, plasma cutter, laser cut at a shop?

I made my headliner out of 16ga steel and had it laser cut for far less than it would have cost me to buy the tools (e.g. nibbler, shears) to do it myself.

 

[doxford jim]

Hi Piloon,

I read your post and would love to see pictures of your cab! If you have the time and patience to post them I am sure a lot of readers would be greatful and interested.

Thx

Jim

Hi-
I made my cab, as you plan, using 1 1/2 tube for framing.
For the roof I used (about 1/16) but selected galvanised sheet so I would not need to deal with paint and maintainance issues.
I had a shop cut the sheet wider than the frame and then fold the edges downward at about 45 deg to form a sotra eave to have water drip away from the door pannels.
I also cut the roof longer front and back to cause water to drip away from the windows and would suggest 3" frt and rear would be great.
In other words the roof is oversized!
My roof is fastened simply using 1/4" self taping screws about every 10".
I also fashioned a headliner using 1/4" foam that was sandwitched under a vinyl type material to serve as a headliner.
That cuts down lots of noise and prevents condensation drips.
As you plan to do I used salvaged school bus windows for the front and rear as I mounted wipers on both. (be sure to get the rubber mounting gaskets as it makes for a neet installation)
Again I simply screwed the metal window pannels onto the frame.

reasons for screwing vs welding;
1- did not want welds on galvanised sheets
2- no grinding, sanding and maintanance
3- I could sandwitch the headliner in place

I did acid etch, prime and paint the basic frame before assembly but to this day (some 8 yrs later) the cab is as nice as the day I made it as there are no chips or rust showing anywhere but on the basic tractor I have needed to frequantly touch up the factory paint.

True my cab is kinda 'boxy' looking, but it always looks 'neet and tidy' and is of the lowest maintainance. (and I use it often in the bush which would scratch and mark a paint surface)

On the back, I did hinge the pannel for airation and also made the door remouvable for summer usage.

That foam and headliner really pays off in hot summer as there is no 'oven' effect!

For summer cooling I mounted 2 computer 4" 'muffin fans' (12 vdc) to blow air at me and they also serve to circulate heat in the winter as well as defrost my windows.

Good luck with your project!

If I were to do it all over again, well I might tilt the front winshield to create a more 'rakish' look and maybe the rear as well, but then I have what I have and it does the job!

 

[mcd176]

Thanks for the help so far guys, Looks like 16ga it is, I will be using a plasma cutter for all of my metal cutting and MIG the frame. I will also be using "Tuffak" Polycarbonite sheeting made by Plexglas for the windows except the front and rear those will be glass, any other suggestions or pics are appreciated.

Mike

 

[mjncad]

Thanks for the help so far guys, Looks like 16ga it is, I will be using a plasma cutter for all of my metal cutting and MIG the frame. I will also be using "Tuffak" Polycarbonite sheeting made by Plexglas for the windows except the front and rear those will be glass, any other suggestions or pics are appreciated.

Mike

Look for a thread by Huskerplowboy as he just finished up his cab for his Deere and it turned out very good.

 

[mcd176]

Today I measured up for all of my steel for the main fram of the cab minus the 16ga sheet and the metal for the door frames, I am looking at around $240.00 so far.

I have also decided on using Tempered glass for the cab, I compared Lexan and Glass and although I will have more in the glass I think I will be happier in the long run, Plus I can have the glass tinted when I buy it, but that is awhile down the road.

For my roof I plan on making it out of wood and then covering it with fiberglass mat and resin, My dad is an expert carpenter and my buddy has a body shop to help me with that end.

I plan on getting the steel on Wednesday and can start making my cuts and initial mock up, I will post pictures as I go since we all have to see pics

 

[mcd176]

Thanks for the info MJNCAD!

 

[mjncad]

Thanks for the info MJNCAD!

You're welcome, and I think you'll be happier with glass over Plexiglas or Lexan as the glass is far more scratch resistant than the plastic.

We're looking forward to the pictures!

 

[PILOON]

MCD
I sent you a PM with links to my cab photos as requested.
Check photo album under PILOON.

For my sheet metal cutting I went to a sheet metal shop that had an 8 ft shear and as I recal for a minimum 1 hr charge the sheared the pannels to my specs as well as folded the edges as I wanted.
At that time I recall the fee was in the $25-50. range.
and well worth it.
For my window cut outs I simply used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and sprayed liquid detergant as a lube. (note that detergant also works for cutting plexiglass and lexan)
Also never attempt to drill lexan and plexi without a lube as for sure you'll cause some splits sooner or later. Also always drill considerably oversized holes as lexan/plexi will crack under stress and vibration and shrinkage/expansion as metals expand at differant rate than plastics. This I know from my aviation background!