Kubota overheated!

[Dale in MI]

That’s because most people outside of the tri-state area play spades. When you can count cards and learn how to stack a deck it’s nearly the same card game. We often played both on our down time while on deployments.

The instrument panel is not bad at all to replace. As someone mentioned earlier, it’s just a few screws holding it in place and then a couple connectors in the back. If it’s your first time you might consider disconnecting the battery so you don’t short anything or shock yourself while your back there.

With regards to your rad screens. Does your tractor have the “pre-screen” in front of the coolers/radiator? If so, keep an eye on this and carry a small hand sized whisk broom in your tractor. I had an older model BX that was notorious for collecting chaff. So long as the front grille and that pre-screen were kept clean, the coolers/radiator wouldn’t get too bad. On my JD, it’s a different story and they require cleaning more often.
Best of luck with your instrument panel replacement and finding a fitting for your water return mount. If you can’t find the fitting through Kubota or anywhere online, you might have luck taking it off the machine and into somewhere like Napa. They might have a similar replacement or multiple pieces that you could thread together to make work temporarily. Keep us all posted on what happens.

Thanks for the response about the instrument panel. I just put in a 1/4 close nipple to replace that broken water return nipple. I am checking for leaks now before I put in an antifreeze mix. It does have that pre-screen so I am going to hose that off. It was not bad though and the problem was all that broken nipple and not debris from mowing.

We used to farm a 1000 acres with a pair of Oliver 770s, and I never recall having cooling problems. Now I know the Kubota is at greater risk of overheating and will keep an eye on it as many have suggested.

 

[alpha&omega]

Mine are around 10 years old so the newer ones may be cheaply built. I'll take your word on that.

The old ones worked great. Same goes for my original flexzilla air hose. The ends have been replaced, but the hose still works great. The new ones have recalls for the sidewalls blowing out and the garden hoses get all sticky when left out in the sun too long. Seriously…a garden hose?

 

[alpha&omega]

Thanks for the response about the instrument panel. I just put in a 1/4 close nipple to replace that broken water return nipple. I am checking for leaks now before I put in an antifreeze mix. It does have that pre-screen so I am going to hose that off. It was not bad though and the problem was all that broken nipple and not debris from mowing.

We used to farm a 1000 acres with a pair of Oliver 770s, and I never recall having cooling problems. Now I know the Kubota is at greater risk of overheating and will keep an eye on it as many have suggested.

You’re very welcome. Glad things are going together for you.
Even though that screen wasn’t clogged now, doesn’t mean it won’t be after your next mowing adventure. Those Oliver’s didn’t have the same issues these newer tractors have, but also didn’t have all of the bells whistles and creature comforts either. I guess that’s the trade off. Best of luck…and remember to post some pictures once you check for leaks or your repair never happened.

 

[crazyal]

Seems like a remote pressure gauge might be worthwhile to monitor the cooling system. It would be useful to know if it's too high (pointing to a broken radiator cap) or too low (a fluid leak). It even could point to a bad head gasket if the pressure is bouncing.

As for the OP I would replace the oil and have the used oil checked. No point assuming the worst just yet. It might be worthwhile adding an oil pressure gauge as well. If any of the rod bearings are worn excessively it'll show up with low oil pressure. It may run ok with low pressure but the risk of damaging the block is high which would add a lot to the cost to repair it.

 

[DSM123]

The MX5100 radiator is not suitable for agriculture use. The fin count is such that it clogs up too easily.
Poor design for a tractor.

 

[LD1]

The MX5100 radiator is not suitable for agriculture use. The fin count is such that it clogs up too easily.
Poor design for a tractor.

I agree that the radiator is largely inadequate. I do brush mowing for a living and constantly have to clean the screen and radiator. Which is also a single core radiator.

I actually had a custom all aluminum radiator made for the tractor, two cores, and what they call "feed-lot" cores. Which have straight though fins and much fewer per inch.

Radiator doesnt plug, still gotta keep an eye on the screen in front of the radiator though.

The few times I have whished for more power....like a MX5800 or the newer MX6000...I cant help but wonder just how much quicker it will over heat. Because to get 60hp instead of 51hp on the same machine with the same cooling system, its gonna get hotter.

I dont imagine most people puttering around the woods, cutting wood, grading their drive, moving snow and dirt, etc ever have any issues. But if Im bushhogging and its over 80°F outside....Im probably stopping to clean once an hour. If its 90°F out, its almost unbearable....once every 20 min or so. Thats why I try to mow early mornings. Right when the sun comes up. Cooler and the dew holds down on the chaff that plug the radiator. In the heat of the summer, I like to be done by 10am