I agree. :thumbsup:
Isn't that a 3pt rear snow blower? This thread is about the newer front mount snow blowers.
Comparison Kubota Snowblowers for the BX : BX2750 vs BX5450
- Thread starter Charliebrn
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I agree. :thumbsup:
Isn't that a 3pt rear snow blower? This thread is about the newer front mount snow blowers.
bumperm
Veteran Member
For me, there's no front mount vs. 3-point blower debate. I can't twist around for long, nor would I want to.
Some of the "back blower" guys will dis the front mounts due to cost . . . a legitimate complaint I suppose, though it is easy to see why the extra cost when you consider the quick hitch mount and drive line. They also besmirch them for being lightly built or easily bent - maybe not so legitimate a complaint. I had a B2750 on my previous BX and had no problems whatsoever, even attacking hidden newspapers, the occasional pine cone, rock, or icy plow drifts, albeit slowly so as not require replacing shear bolts. The blower itself is sturdy enough. Throw distance, depending on snow, was 35 to 50 feet or so. I added a "power car window" chute rotation and a 12VDC linear actuator for chute deflection. An entirely satisfactory tractor/front blower combination save for the lack of a cab and wind that often wanted to blow back at me.
My "new" tractor has a cab and heater and a front mount B2782B, so life is good - - well, 'cept there ain't no snow.
Some of the "back blower" guys will dis the front mounts due to cost . . . a legitimate complaint I suppose, though it is easy to see why the extra cost when you consider the quick hitch mount and drive line. They also besmirch them for being lightly built or easily bent - maybe not so legitimate a complaint. I had a B2750 on my previous BX and had no problems whatsoever, even attacking hidden newspapers, the occasional pine cone, rock, or icy plow drifts, albeit slowly so as not require replacing shear bolts. The blower itself is sturdy enough. Throw distance, depending on snow, was 35 to 50 feet or so. I added a "power car window" chute rotation and a 12VDC linear actuator for chute deflection. An entirely satisfactory tractor/front blower combination save for the lack of a cab and wind that often wanted to blow back at me.
My "new" tractor has a cab and heater and a front mount B2782B, so life is good - - well, 'cept there ain't no snow.
Rvb206
New member
Hi my name in Ron I have a BX25d-1 or 2014 I have a bx5450 snowblower the only difference between that and the bx2750 is the 5450 has four blades on the second stage and you can replace the shoes and cutting edge with plastic part# bx5444 skid shoes and part# bx5445 cutting edge.
Where did you purchase the material to line the chute ? How did you attach it ?
I got mine with the hydraulic chute rotation also, then added chute deflection myself:
Note that a 2" cylinder is hardly necessary, but it's what I could find with a 4" stroke, which is about right and that dictates lever arm length. I added a 1/32" restrictor to slow the cylinder down to a managable speed and run it from with the 3rd function valve on the tractor. If you order hydraulic chute deflection from Kubota, I think they use an electric diverter valve from the hydraulic lines that run chute rotation.
Lining the chute with UHMW polyethylene helps prevent even slushy snow from sticking and has the added benefit of more throw distance:
bumper
bumperm
Veteran Member
The UHMW PE comes from either Plastics International (good pricing on larger sheets etc), or from Amazon - one of their sellers, Peachtree Woodworking, has good pricing on UHMW too, especially the thicker stuff that would be used for skids and blades.
With relatively small peices, such as would go in the chute, attaching can be with screws or pop rivets - mine are screwed and for the deflector, I drilled and tapped the housing itself (no advantage in doing that, I just went that way). For longer lengths, like the liner for the impeller housing, allowance needs to be made for the thermal coefficient of expansion of the plastic vs the steel. So one end of the impeller liner is screwed in place, while the other end has a slot to hole it down so it can slide in relation to the steel housing. That works great.
With relatively small peices, such as would go in the chute, attaching can be with screws or pop rivets - mine are screwed and for the deflector, I drilled and tapped the housing itself (no advantage in doing that, I just went that way). For longer lengths, like the liner for the impeller housing, allowance needs to be made for the thermal coefficient of expansion of the plastic vs the steel. So one end of the impeller liner is screwed in place, while the other end has a slot to hole it down so it can slide in relation to the steel housing. That works great.
I purchased my BX2230 that was originally built without a hydraulic control kit.
The hydraulic control kit was quoted at $725, including installation.
The snowblower, BX5450 was quoted at $3,090, including quick hitch, subframe and PTO driveline kit.
Do you guys think these prices are fair?
The hydraulic control kit was quoted at $725, including installation.
The snowblower, BX5450 was quoted at $3,090, including quick hitch, subframe and PTO driveline kit.
Do you guys think these prices are fair?
bumperm
Veteran Member
Not sure, but doesn't sound too far off. When you say no hydraulic control kit, are you meaning there was no frontloader and joystick?
When I sold my BX2250, I sold the BX5450 front blower and mount separately to another buyer. The blower did have electric chute rotation and deflector controls that I built and included. That and the subframe got sold for $2500 IIRC and the guy was tickled to get it! You don't see many good ones for sale used.
When I sold my BX2250, I sold the BX5450 front blower and mount separately to another buyer. The blower did have electric chute rotation and deflector controls that I built and included. That and the subframe got sold for $2500 IIRC and the guy was tickled to get it! You don't see many good ones for sale used.
You are correct - no front loader or the joystick.