Kubota Zero turn 60in or 72in deck?

[Tom_H]

Well, I was going to ask for more details on the rise and fall of your hills and distance between trees, because I thought about hitching a gang of mowers behind the B3030.

For real speed on large acreages, this is the demon of my dreams:

CLAAS of America Inc. - COUGAR

 

[powerstroke444e]

Just one thought if you want the machine to last you need to run it wide open, because that is the design for the cooling fans on the hydro & engine. Put a lable near the throttle that says "WFO". It will save you in the long run. You don't save anything running @3/4 throttle.

 

[Dargo]

Just one thought if you want the machine to last you need to run it wide open, because that is the design for the cooling fans on the hydro & engine. Put a lable near the throttle that says "WFO". It will save you in the long run. You don't save anything running @3/4 throttle.

Agreed. I've bought over a dozen new diesel mowers and I've positively never run one at anything other than the designed full throttle. In thousands and thousands of hours combined, I've never had a problem. Many techs will tell you that running one at less than full throttle at break in will result in a machine that produces less power besides other issues. I've never heard any dealer advise anything otherwise either. The machine was designed and manufactured to run at full power right away. I assure you that nobody in the mowing business I know would buy a mower that they couldn't run properly right away.

 

[om21braz]

I've run mine @ wide open throttle from day one - as instructed from dealer. He's been in the Kubota business for about 30 years and a diesel mechanic for about 50.

 

[Dargo]

I suppose I ought to clarify something; I do let my machines warm up for about 3 to 5 minutes before pushing them to half throttle, engaging the deck, and then pushing it to full throttle. But that is about all the time any of them get at less than full operating throttle.

 

[jlbota]

Just one thought if you want the machine to last you need to run it wide open, because that is the design for the cooling fans on the hydro & engine. Put a lable near the throttle that says "WFO". It will save you in the long run. You don't save anything running @3/4 throttle.

I have to say that I agree running wide open is the best way to run these machines and keep the hydro transmissions cool but I have to disagree as far as the break in process is concerned. Varied Rpm's is the best way to break in any engine and especially a diesel. It gives the rings and the cylinder walls a better chance to mate to each other and create a proper seal with much less blow by for the life of the engine.
New engines have more fuel and oil blowby due to the mating surfaces not being broke in yet and if you run a diesel under heavy load with a new hone and rings you can cause oil glazing which actually burns into the rings and cylinder wall and is there for the life of the engine. On the opposite end if you idle a new diesel and run no load at all for extended periods it can be just as bad during break in.

These Kubota engines are designed very well and are built to last but all engines need some sort of a break in.

I am sure there are those out there who have run the stank out of thier new diesel engines from the get go and are still running them to this day.
But a properly broke in engine will always produce more power in the long run.

 

[Ob1kubota]

I suppose I ought to clarify something; I do let my machines warm up for about 3 to 5 minutes before pushing them to half throttle, engaging the deck, and then pushing it to full throttle. But that is about all the time any of them get at less than full operating throttle.

That's exactly how I bring mine up to speed, you have to get oil to all the parts that need it before you put her under full load.

 

[art]

New engines have more fuel and oil blowby due to the mating surfaces not being broke in yet and if you run a diesel under heavy load with a new hone and rings you can cause oil glazing which actually burns into the rings and cylinder wall and is there for the life of the engine. On the opposite end if you idle a new diesel and run no load at all for extended periods it can be just as bad during break in.

TBut a properly broke in engine will always produce more power in the long run.

New engines or old or any diesel engine with a bad injector or run to cold will cause cylinder glazing from the partially burnt fuel.
When breaking in new tractors after the first hour or two we are at full throttle full load for several hours!!!!! I like to see an engine brought up to temp and then allowed to cool. Do this several times and then let it it rip!!!!

 

[jlbota]

New engines or old or any diesel engine with a bad injector or run to cold will cause cylinder glazing from the partially burnt fuel.
When breaking in new tractors after the first hour or two we are at full throttle full load for several hours!!!!! I like to see an engine brought up to temp and then allowed to cool. Do this several times and then let it it rip!!!!

Don't get me wrong...I run my diesels like they were made to be run. They love to be under load and worked hard. Its better for the engine in the long run if you work em. My Cummins Dodge actually runs better after a nice heated run.

But your exactly right to bring the temperature up and and then down to cool. This is why varied RPM's is good for break in.

Good point on the bad injector and running cool for extended periods.