L10 series HST

Rowski · Apr 18, 2001

I'm getting off topic and color again. This is the last time I promise /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.

The only thing I don't like about the 318 is the mower deck. The only time I can get a good cut is by talking off 1/2 of grass or less. I've tried JD blades regular and Hi lift. I've tried 2 aftermarket brands, forgot their names. Tried setting the front of the deck higher and lower than the rear. It's been like that since day one. The mechanical part of the tractor is awesome. The hydro is tough as nails pulled some pretty heavy stuff with it!

Derek

JATO_RaT · Apr 19, 2001

Derek, sounds like nonsense to me, I have Amsoil synthetic in my tractor. It is a shuttle shift type. After putting hundreds of hours on my L4850 Kubota, I am pretty familiar with how it shifts and the "spin down" time needed for changing gears. None of that changed at all when I switched to Amsoil synthetic hydraulic fluid. I don't believe the Amsoil to be any more or less slippery then Kubotas UD. It has the potential to be more temperature stable which was the primary reason for my decision to go with it. Rat...

Rowski · Apr 19, 2001

I wouldn't doubt what you are saying is true. Like I mentioned in my prior post is its something I only have heard this and never experienced it. I assume you mean changing gear speed (not range selector or the shuttle). With 250 hrs under my belt I've come pretty familar what the straight gear transmission on the 2120 likes and dislikes. I will most likely go with synthetic on the tranny/hydraulic fluid due to the cold temps in the winter.

Derek

putty340 · Apr 19, 2001

I have tried waiting to shift, but even if I get off to do something and get back on the tractor 5 min. later it will still grind going into gear. It only has 6 hours on it so maybe it just is'nt broke in yet? Rowski I dont think it has synthetic oil in it unless they put it in from the factory.

Harv · Apr 19, 2001

Putty -

Is it possible the only time that counts is when you have the clutch pushed in? In other words, is some part of the gear train still spinning even when you're in neutral?

Time for Kubmech again ... /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

GlueGuy · Apr 19, 2001

Harv,

I think that's the issue. When the clutch is engaged in most transmissions that I've seen, then the "driving" gears are all rotating with the engine. It's not until you push the clutch pedal (dis-engaging the "driving" gears) that they will coast to a stop.

I would also assume that tractor transmissions (unlike auto transmissions) have little or no "synchro" type mechanisms.

The GlueGuy

Bird · Apr 19, 2001

Harv, yes, the only time that counts is when you have the clutch pedal pushed down.

And GlueGuy, you're right about tractors not having synchromesh - until fairly recently. Some do have now.

Bird

Anonymous Poster · Apr 19, 2001

OK Putty, try this, on a level surface, at idle, push the clutch in, slow count to five, put the tractor in gear. Does is grind? if it does'nt try it with a normal three count, does it grind now?
If it's grinding at the five count give it a good 45 seconds if it still grinds check your clutch pedal free play, that's the amount the clutch pedal moves very easy till the throwout (release) bearing contacts the "fingers" of the pressure plate.
It should be 3/4" to 1", if it's more than that the clutch wont disengage completely causing the grinding condition. If there was no free play at all then you would be looking at the opposite, release bearing not allowing the clutch to engage completely causing slippage and premature clutch wear and eventually failure. If the five count works but not the three count give it about another 15 to 20 hours to break in. If your still having the problem or if the the free play is out get your dealer to take a look at it, if for no other reason than to have a record of this problem. Now for the condition you described
"off the tractor for five minutes get back on and still grinds":
With the clutch engaged (clutch pedal not depressed) the main shaft is spinning, when the clutch pedal is depressed fully
(big word alert) the centrifugal moment of the gears and shaft will cause the shaft to continue to turn for a couple of seconds, this transmission is not synchronized like your car or truck (we're talking straight cut gears trying to mesh together) so they need a little extra time to slow down or stop so you get a clean shift. It's clutch pedal depressed time not neutral time that matters. If you noticed your grinding problem probably occurs when the shift is made from neutral to your first selected gear, after that from gear to gear it's probably fine because when going from one gear to another stopping the tractor (in gear) stops all the shafts so a subsequent shift will be smooth unless your on an incline/decline causing the gears to bind some. Get it?