I am in the process of buying a new lawn tractor, since we'll be moving into a new house in the next few weeks, and have ALOT more land (1.5 acres)to work with. Obviously cost is an issue... isn't it always? So I have been looking at saving money by going with a Try-Bilt from Lowes for about a thousand bucks. All my friends keep reminding me that nothing runs like a Deere. Although my list of questions and thoughts might take several pages, the core question is this: I know that the JD L111 is not the top of the line Deere. But... it is twice the price of the Troy-bilt. Is it worth the double-cash to go with the deere? As I say, I realize the issue is much more involved than this simple questions, so I introduce this as food for thought... chew away!
L111 vs Troybilt
- Thread starter Shelbs
- Start date
- Views: 1364
KAB
Gold Member
I helped my FIL last year to pick out a new riding mower and from the discussions that I had with various dealers (about 4 - 5 different makes) the biggest problem with buying from a box store is prep. The box stores do not usually have an expert on staff to prep the machine before delivery. I would check the local dealers for the same machine and test drive them. Make sure the controls are comfortable to use and discuss the reliabililty of the model with them.
These will be the people that you turn to when you have a problem. Prices should be close. You might even find that you can step up in quality for a little more money.
My FIL ended up with a Husqvarna due to price, dealer, and ease of use. (Not the same model as carried at lowes but only about $100 more.)
BTW. Welcome aboard
Kurt
These will be the people that you turn to when you have a problem. Prices should be close. You might even find that you can step up in quality for a little more money.
My FIL ended up with a Husqvarna due to price, dealer, and ease of use. (Not the same model as carried at lowes but only about $100 more.)
BTW. Welcome aboard
Kurt
CajunRider
Platinum Member
When you are buy a lawn tractor at the low end look carefully at the features, not the price tags. Some really good bargain can be had at the low end you just have to look for them. Listed below are some of the things you should consider:
Oil filter: A spin on oil filter means the motor has forced circulation lubrication. This is a must have. Some cheap lawn tractor uses splash lubrication with no oil filter. Those engine don't last very long. Also get the model of the motor itself and checked on the internet. Lots of good info on reliability of small engines are there.
Cast iron front axle: This is also a must have. Poorly made lawn tractor has stamped steel axle. Avoid the stamped steel ones. Also take a close look at how sturdy the steering linkages are. Over the years I've fixed many of my friends lawn tractors and busted steering linkages are common items.
Mowing deck thickness: the thicker the better. Check the number of anti-scalping rollers. The more the better. Check the quality of the rollers: how stout are they? If you got a rolling lawn the anti-scalping rollers are a must unless you want uneven and scalped lawn.
Also look at the shafts of any thing: slow turning shaft should have brass/bronze bushing and not nylon, fast turning shaft should have good bearings.
Once you look carefully at the $1000 Troybilt and the $2000 Deere, I think you'll find that the $1000 difference can be attributed in ratio similar to what I've found:
$500 - Better construction/quality
$250 - Better future service/support.
$250 - Some thing about owning a Deere
For me 14 years ago I went the cheap route . Took good care of it. It was still in good running condition when I donated to a needy family last year. It's still running now. I just helped him replace the belt the other day.
I am sure the sage among us can tell you a lot more than I can. I'm just sharing with you what little I know. BTW, I've got nothing against the Deere, I just got limited budget.
My $.02
Oil filter: A spin on oil filter means the motor has forced circulation lubrication. This is a must have. Some cheap lawn tractor uses splash lubrication with no oil filter. Those engine don't last very long. Also get the model of the motor itself and checked on the internet. Lots of good info on reliability of small engines are there.
Cast iron front axle: This is also a must have. Poorly made lawn tractor has stamped steel axle. Avoid the stamped steel ones. Also take a close look at how sturdy the steering linkages are. Over the years I've fixed many of my friends lawn tractors and busted steering linkages are common items.
Mowing deck thickness: the thicker the better. Check the number of anti-scalping rollers. The more the better. Check the quality of the rollers: how stout are they? If you got a rolling lawn the anti-scalping rollers are a must unless you want uneven and scalped lawn.
Also look at the shafts of any thing: slow turning shaft should have brass/bronze bushing and not nylon, fast turning shaft should have good bearings.
Once you look carefully at the $1000 Troybilt and the $2000 Deere, I think you'll find that the $1000 difference can be attributed in ratio similar to what I've found:
$500 - Better construction/quality
$250 - Better future service/support.
$250 - Some thing about owning a Deere
For me 14 years ago I went the cheap route . Took good care of it. It was still in good running condition when I donated to a needy family last year. It's still running now. I just helped him replace the belt the other day.
I am sure the sage among us can tell you a lot more than I can. I'm just sharing with you what little I know. BTW, I've got nothing against the Deere, I just got limited budget.
My $.02
the way i see it is for the price of one deere you can have 2 troybuilts
the JD will undoubtedly be of better quality but probably not twice the quality. if you are even slightly handy you can service it yourself without any issues another thing to look at is how easy it is to get at parts of the mower, easiness to reapair.
look at the materials it is made from, plastic bodywork tends to crack over time, IMO metal is best but others will undoubtadly disagree
what was said about the pressed axles is true - but i aint broken one yet or know of anyone who has
so if one get cooked then you get a nice shiney new one
if you look after them and dont do anything stupid with them than even the cheaper models will last a long time
i work at a place that services lawn mowers and we get some serously old cheap mowers in - just look after your tools and itll go on and on
if you have hilly land look hard at forced lubrication - cheaper splash lubrication wont work so great on slopes
also look at the availibility of spares, JD will have many, troybuilt few.
another thing is have you considered second hand
i have never had a new mower and my lawn is still cut fine
now thats my $0.02
the JD will undoubtedly be of better quality but probably not twice the quality. if you are even slightly handy you can service it yourself without any issues another thing to look at is how easy it is to get at parts of the mower, easiness to reapair.
look at the materials it is made from, plastic bodywork tends to crack over time, IMO metal is best but others will undoubtadly disagree
what was said about the pressed axles is true - but i aint broken one yet or know of anyone who has
so if one get cooked then you get a nice shiney new one
if you look after them and dont do anything stupid with them than even the cheaper models will last a long time
i work at a place that services lawn mowers and we get some serously old cheap mowers in - just look after your tools and itll go on and on
if you have hilly land look hard at forced lubrication - cheaper splash lubrication wont work so great on slopes
also look at the availibility of spares, JD will have many, troybuilt few.
another thing is have you considered second hand
i have never had a new mower and my lawn is still cut fine
now thats my $0.02
CajunRider
Platinum Member
Mith,
My neighbors must be really rough on their lawn tractors. Two of them messed up their stamped steel front axles. On this side of the pond, finding replacement for those axles are not easy.
My neighbors must be really rough on their lawn tractors. Two of them messed up their stamped steel front axles. On this side of the pond, finding replacement for those axles are not easy.
sounds like they are hard on them
im not exactly soft - i pull wheelies on the garden tractor and even have a spare front axle, i thought i would need it
i think it takes lots of pressure from the bottom upwards to break it
if you hit something straight on say hit a stump with the front wheel it will snap right through
a bit of care and keeping your eye out for that hidded stump should protect you
i agree about them hard to find, my spare is a solid one from a fire damaged westwood (market leader in UK) found it in a ditch by the side of the road /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
im not exactly soft - i pull wheelies on the garden tractor and even have a spare front axle, i thought i would need it
i think it takes lots of pressure from the bottom upwards to break it
if you hit something straight on say hit a stump with the front wheel it will snap right through
a bit of care and keeping your eye out for that hidded stump should protect you
i agree about them hard to find, my spare is a solid one from a fire damaged westwood (market leader in UK) found it in a ditch by the side of the road /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
ThistleKop
Silver Member
Shelbs,
You're getting good info in this discussion. One thing that I would suggest to you and any other prospective rider mower buyer is this: With the consolidation that has taken place in the mfgrs. of lawn equip., companies are using the goodwill that has been established for a brand over the years to sell very average product with the the same badge. This will eventually shake itself out but in the meantime unsuspecting customers will learn a hard lesson. Your time will be well spent to see who manufactures Troybilt, Husqvarna and others. Sometimes you can buy essentially the same product, different badge for less money.
TK
You're getting good info in this discussion. One thing that I would suggest to you and any other prospective rider mower buyer is this: With the consolidation that has taken place in the mfgrs. of lawn equip., companies are using the goodwill that has been established for a brand over the years to sell very average product with the the same badge. This will eventually shake itself out but in the meantime unsuspecting customers will learn a hard lesson. Your time will be well spent to see who manufactures Troybilt, Husqvarna and others. Sometimes you can buy essentially the same product, different badge for less money.
TK
Ledgemere Farm
Veteran Member
All I can say is:
I have ridden on the lesser expensive machines like Roper and Murray and Sears. I have ridden on Deeres. I now own only Deeres. Every place I got stuck with a lesser machine, the Deere went right through. The Roper was incredibly hard to turn. The Deeres turn easilly. I can walk into a Deere dealership and buy parts from people who know what they are talking about. With Sears, you are buying tractor parts from someone who just sold vaccum cleaner bags to the guy before you.
My advice is to not buy any tractor from a box store. Go to a dealer. I priced the L-series at Home Depot and I priced Cubs at Lowes. You can support a dealer and get the same exact tractor for the same money. When you buy from a dealer, (one who is reputable), they have factory trained service techs who will work on your machine. Try bringing your TroyBilt back to a box store when you have troubles with it. When you buy a Deere from a dealer (who is reputable), you are also buying the peace of mind that parts and service will be available. I have a 1978 JD 65 that I can still get parts for. How's that?
Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I have ridden on the lesser expensive machines like Roper and Murray and Sears. I have ridden on Deeres. I now own only Deeres. Every place I got stuck with a lesser machine, the Deere went right through. The Roper was incredibly hard to turn. The Deeres turn easilly. I can walk into a Deere dealership and buy parts from people who know what they are talking about. With Sears, you are buying tractor parts from someone who just sold vaccum cleaner bags to the guy before you.
My advice is to not buy any tractor from a box store. Go to a dealer. I priced the L-series at Home Depot and I priced Cubs at Lowes. You can support a dealer and get the same exact tractor for the same money. When you buy from a dealer, (one who is reputable), they have factory trained service techs who will work on your machine. Try bringing your TroyBilt back to a box store when you have troubles with it. When you buy a Deere from a dealer (who is reputable), you are also buying the peace of mind that parts and service will be available. I have a 1978 JD 65 that I can still get parts for. How's that?
Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Tryno
Member
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2004
- Messages
- 43
- Tractor
- TC 30 (Sold D17 and miss it)
If you can afford it go with the Deere. I always thought Troybilt equipment was good stuff until last June. I stopped at a Lowes and they had not one or two or even three but 6 Troybilt mowers that had been returned, repaired and they were trying to resell them. I figured if one store had six like that at one time, no way I wanted one.
