Mowing L2501 v L3301

[JohnMaldaner]

I’m on the fence, looking to purchase my first Kubota. Considering the L2501 or L3301, both HST. We have about 5 acres fenced and cross fenced for horses. I have been using a Ford 1900 with a loader and 5’ bush hog. I move around a manure pile and bush hog three fields. Plus a bunch of miscellaneous jobs around our small farm. My Ford is once again having steering issues and this time it’s serious. So, time for a change.

A friend down the road let me borrow his new L3301 HST. I hooked on my bush hog, put it in Medium range and had a blast! Smooth. Couldn’t believe how much easier the HST made bush hogging. Then, another friend let me come over to his farm and use his L2501 geared Kubota. Bush hogging was good, but in Low range and no HST, it seemed to take a long time, longer than with my old Ford. I want the L3301. But, the payments for the L2501 would fit our budget better.

Can you bush hog in High range with the L2501 if it has the HST? If so, maybe it would get the job done a little faster. The Low range seems to be geared so low! Same loader on both tractors and I doubt the horsepower difference would be dramatic. Any advice here? Don’t want buyer’s remorse if I get the L2501. But, if it would get the job done, saving a couple dollars would make the better half happy.

 

[IraqVet1982]

I have a B2601 hydro trans with a Land Pride 5' Bush Hog and I have no issues in high gear.

I think you'll be fine with a 25hp.

 

[Fallon]

I had a L3200... Same machine as the L2501 before they regiggered it to get under the 25hp emissions limits. The L3301 is the same machine just with a few more HP & the emissions gear.

Weight defines what a tractor will do, HP just defines how fast it gets done. So they will both do the same work. The L3301 will just do it a bit faster.

High is really only usefully for roading the machine on smooth surfaces. I'd mow in Low or maybe Medium if there wasn't much to mow. Really unless you have very smooth ground you can't go much faster than max low or half medium anyways unless you want to dislodge your kidneys.

If you have a lot of heavier cutting (thick grass is actually worse than brush) you can just slow down to keep the machine at the proper RPM. So it comes down to you work at a slow pace or are retired? Or are you more impatient? I rarely regretted getting a L3200 instead of the extra 6hp on a L3800. I'm now on a L4060 more for the cab & HST+ than the extra HP.

 

[JohnMaldaner]

Thanks, guys. I am retired, so don’t need to be in a big hurry. It seemed like in the geared L2501 in Low range, I was crawling. It doesn’t have a medium range. By no means did I floor it in medium range in the L3301. About half, like you said, Fallon. I’d like to emulate that speed in the L2501 and I’d be good.

 

[Milo]

What about an L2501 HST which has three ranges like the L3301?

 

[jeff9366]

FOXTAIL 10/08/2016

A warning for those considering a Gear Drive Kubota L2501

I want to tell my experience with a kubota L2501 in case it's useful to anyone considering this tractor, or a L3301. They are wonderful tractors but the buyer should be aware of the following if you're not planning to get a hydrostatic....

First some background: I cut 10 acres of rough land 1-2 times per year. I did this successfully with a John Deere 1023E tractor and 4 foot Frontier RC2048 cutter. The 1023E's ground clearance around the transmission was fairly low, however, and the ride was a bit rough. So I wanted to upgrade this summer. I wanted a Deere 3032E with 5 foot cutter but it ended up being more than I wanted to pay, especially since I am unlikely to ever put that many hours on the tractor. The new Deere 3025E seemed better for my budget, but is not out as of this writing, and in any case my John Deere dealer said it has only 17.4 PTO horsepower and thought that is too little for a 5 foot cutter.

So I talked to Kubota dealers, and they were quite supportive of putting a 5 foot cutter behind a L2501, which has better PTO horsepower than the Deere (and up to 70.2 lb-ft of torque, incidentally, compared to 51.3 for the 3025E and 64.2 for the 3032E; although torque is not probably as important as PTO HP).

I ended up with a Gear Drive Kubota L2501 with 5 foot Land Pride RCR1260 cutter. The gear drive saved maybe $1000 and offered more PTO horsepower (20.5 PTO HP vs 19.0 for the L2501HST). HOWEVER, the gear drive was a big MISTAKE for my situation:

Problem 1: Nonlive PTO. When mowing if you ever need to change a gear or reverse, you must fully depress the clutch pedal, which also shuts off the transmission-driven PTO (and rear cutter). If you are in heavy material and want to slow down or back up, your only choice is to raise the mower and keep going (but not getting the grass cut) or to put the clutch in, bringing the tractor and PTO to a complete stop. (Note that the gear drive L3301 also has nonlive transmission-driven PTO. The L3901 gear drive might have the advantage of a two stage clutch pedal, which can let the PTO keep going as you change gears. However, buyers should check this carefully).

Problem 2: There are only 8 forward gears on the L2501 and they are spaced somewhat widely for mowing. It's hard to find the specs, which are only in the Kubota owner's manual and not online. Here are the details:
Low2 is 1.1 mph (much too slow for mowing except for very heavy conditions)
Low3 is 1.6 mph (very slow for mowing -- much slower than I generally did in my 1023e with a much smaller engine -- but this is the most realistic option for most conditions)
Low4 is 2.8 mph (substantially faster than L3, and generally too fast for mowing for all but the lightest material -- but still may not get a good cut because you're going so fast)
Also: on the L2501 (unlike L3301 as I understand it) there is no shuttle shift, which means that if you want to go from forward to reverse, you have to fully depress the clutch, come to a complete stop, which shuts down the PTO as well, and slowly shift and let your clutch out again. To save the clutch, the PTO and the implement, you really should do all this at fairly low RPM. However, since this action is also how you get the tractor to start moving again, you need some power -- maybe 2000 RPM to get the whole thing to go. Your left leg will really get some strength training!

Anyway, a gear drive L2501, with its transmission-driven PTO and somewhat widely spaced gears, is a little bit like a 1950s type tractor, and is not for everyone! I am sure there is someone out there who loves it, and will promptly tell me I'm just inexperienced. If someone has had a good experience with this tractor, please share.

After nearly 5 hours of frustration, my dealer let me trade up to a L2501HST, which essentially solves the problem. I would not hesitate to recommend the L2501HST to anyone wanting to run 5 foot implements.

 

[JohnMaldaner]

What about an L2501 HST which has three ranges like the L3301?

Milo, if you are correct, problem solved! But, my understanding is the L2501 comes with only a Low-High in both gear driven and HST. Please correct me if I am wrong here!

 

[JohnMaldaner]

Jeff9366 - Thank you for such a detailed field report! In the short time that I operated the L2501 gear driven, I decided it was not what I wanted for bush hogging. Reminded me a bit of my old Ford 8N which did not have a live PTO. I also appreciate your thoughts on the L2501 HST and 5’ bush hog.

 

[jeff9366]

L2501/HST has three (3) ranges.

 

[JohnMaldaner]

L2501/HST has three (3) ranges.

Fantastic! Well that pretty much solves my problem. A salesman at one place told me it only had High-Low.