L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt

   / L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt #11  
canoetrpr said:
I did think up one more question which I also thought up answer to.

If all the valves are connected in series then where does the 3PT hitch valve fit in? I am guessing that it is implicitly either the first or the the last valve in the series.

Did I get this right?
On just about every tractor that I can think of, it's the last valve in the circuit.
 
   / L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt #12  
Mad you were right, I just took some pics and just thought the hoses ran to just the hyd block.

Well here is the way it is run on mine.
The first one is the hyd block, the hose on the upper left is one going to the spool valve labled out.
The second is of where it connects to on the spool valve, it is the upper "B" nut fitting.
The third and fourth pics are of the connection on the loader valve, it is the L/H fitting just outside the blue and red QD fittings.
The fifth is where the line from the loader connects to the spool valve right on the top labled in.
The sixth is the return to tank line, if you have a BH75 then it needs to have a QD fitting the be able to remove this line for BH seat clearance. It connects to the spool valve in pict #2 on the bottom side or if you could see the whole valve it would be in the middle.
And the last is the operators end of the busness. I have it setup as closest is top, middle tilt and outside is scarfiers.
Hope this helps some.
 

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   / L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt #13  
As far as I knew the remote on my L3400 is from Kubota unless my dealer got it from an aftermarket firm. If he did he didn't mention that. I use it to run the chute on my snow blower. It bolts to the ROPS. See pictures.

The small bread pan mounted on top of the bracket I added to hold my gloves and pruning trimmers.
 

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   / L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt #14  
ccsial said:
As far as I knew the remote on my L3400 is from Kubota unless my dealer got it from an aftermarket firm. If he did he didn't mention that. I use it to run the chute on my snow blower. It bolts to the ROPS. See pictures.

The small bread pan mounted on top of the bracket I added to hold my gloves and pruning trimmers.
The remotes offered for the L2800/L3400 are the same as those offered for the older B series Kubotas. The L4400 are slightly different valves but similar. They are all external valves that are plumbed in series with the loader valve.

These Kubota valves are really expensive as an almost identical setup (ie. Prince SV valve) can be purchased for about 1/4 to 1/3 of what Kubota charges. For example a 3 spool Prinve SV with hoses and fittings will run about $400 +/-. A 3 spool setup from Kubota will run almost $1200 for the L2800/L3400 and $1600 for the L4400. It pays to shop around for alternative options.
 
   / L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Hi Mad:

Another silly question for you.

Where can I source a mounting bracket of the type I have seen almost all rear valves connected to the ROPS with. This type of mounting of the valve seems easy enough for even me to do (I was afraid I'd have to get into welding and my tractor is not the best spot for me to learn to weld!).

Also any idea where I can source a cosmetic black plate to cover the valve - much like ccsial's? Most photos of installations I have seen here tend to use these - looks nice and clean.
 
   / L3400 aftermarket remotes, top-n-tilt #16  
canoetrpr said:
Where can I source a mounting bracket of the type I have seen almost all rear valves connected to the ROPS with. This type of mounting of the valve seems easy enough for even me to do (I was afraid I'd have to get into welding and my tractor is not the best spot for me to learn to weld!).

Also any idea where I can source a cosmetic black plate to cover the valve - much like ccsial's? Most photos of installations I have seen here tend to use these - looks nice and clean.
I fabricated my own and I also did one for 8651 for his B2410. Your best bet if you don't weld is to go to a local welding shop and have them make you one from scrap. It shouldn't cost very much. First make a template out of cardboard so the welder can have a reference to build to.
 

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