L3400 coolant change

canoetrpr · Mar 13, 2009

Going to finally get my 150 hr service done this weekend after fixing that oil pan tonight.

I realized that the coolant needs to be changed on a time basis rather than hrs. My tractor is 3 years old and I hadn't changed it yet. I don't have my manual with me but I'd like to pick up the coolant etc. on my way home.

Anyone know if this is just the run of the mill ethelene glycol that the tractor needs? I think that the auto stores sell ethelene glycol and propalene glycol I think.

Do you know if I have to mix this with distilled water - or will my tap water from my well do me fine?

Altex · Mar 13, 2009

You may have already gotten home and found out. Just in case you haven't, my owner's manual just says "Fresh Clean Water with Antifreeze" under lubricant specs, so run of the mill should be fine.

number two · Mar 13, 2009

I personally use conventional green ethylene glycol 50/50 with distilled water,changed every year or two.If you have much lime in your water,it will deposit on your radiator tubes,clogging them over time.For a few extra dollars,you can buy premixed 50/50 coolant using de-ionized water,at major retailors or auto parts stores.There is a thread going this week in the Oil,Fuel,Lubricants Section by fieldserviceengineer that goes into this in detail.You do not need the the the fully formulated,extended life truck product for your tractor.

canoetrpr · Mar 14, 2009

I never did stop by on the way home from work yesterday. Figured I might as well get home in time to see the kids go to bed instead.

I'll step out today.

I think that a pre-mix with de-ionized water sounds like a good idea.

teg · Mar 14, 2009

Need to put that on my to-do list, also... thanks for the reminder...

Harvest Moon · Mar 14, 2009

Me too, I'm up for my 200 hour change soon and I bet that anti-freeze has been in there since my tractor was built, pretty sure, in 2005. Too bad I bought it new in Dec. 2006. Won't do that again.

Altex · Mar 14, 2009

Hey Y'all, "Number two" is right! There's a great discussion going on under "Oil, Fuel & Lubricants ". Look at the topic "Antifreeze- is any type OK?"

There's some great info from "fieldserviceengineer" and this subject as he stated "...happens to be an area of expertise for me as I am a field service engineer for a division of Cummins"

And here's another great link from 3RRL about changing/flushing your cooling system (including pics):
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/101921-kama-554-radiator-maintenance-mods.html

I'm now a believer in using anti-cavitation antifreeze for wet sleeve diesel engines. But first, flushing out your system from 3RRL's link.

canoetrpr · Mar 15, 2009

Got it all flushed out with some Prestone flush and filled up with the pre-mixed stuff.

I'll go and read Rob's thread now and learn what I really should have been done

I'm sure my tractor will be thanking me for the change. It's been 3 years now and I simply missed the coolant change because I've only been looking at what I need to do every X hrs.

GeneSchultz · Mar 15, 2009

Does anyone know why the Kubota owners manual says "When the antifreeze is mixed with water, the antifreeze mixing ratio must be less than 50%"? What is wrong with a stronger mixing ratio?

canoetrpr · Mar 20, 2009

Wow! I just went and read that thread in the "Oil, Lubricants ..." section and I am lost. I followed the manual and flushed the radiator with a Prestone flush and then filled with pre-mixed Motomaster stuff.

I'm going to take a vague guess that my engine will not self destruct while I leave this stuff in there for a year or two. Next time I might consider going to something that is formulated with anti-cavitation stuff.

Anyone have any other suggestions? I'm guessing I'm not the only guy in the world running just what the manual suggests which is 'Permanent type' antifreeze.

number two · Mar 20, 2009

canoetrpr-Relax dude,you're fine!You didn't need the flush stuff,unless your cooling system looks really nasty,which I doubt it was.I believe you have a (parent bore) engine i.e. no liners-which elimates the cavitation issues for the most part.I think if it was me,I'd change your coolant again next year,using the premix de-ionized,de-mineralized coolant,if for no other reason,to remove any flushing residue from this service.Every other year after that.

canoetrpr · Mar 21, 2009

The stuff I drained out was pretty darn clean.

The manual suggests using a flush treatment and following the directions on it so thats what I did.

I forgot the appropriate emoticon when I said that I hope my cooling system won't self destruct. I was just kidding. Figure I am A'OK just following what is in the manual.

Thanks for the point about it being parent bore btw. I'll go read up a bit on cavitation just out of interest.

Altex · Mar 21, 2009

canoetrpr said:
The stuff I drained out was pretty darn clean...

Did you flush correctly and did y'all see this link? Just checkin'.
See Post #9 and especially #10 by 3RRL (Rob).
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/101921-kama-554-radiator-maintenance-mods.html

I'm sure your fine. Just info for next time.

canoetrpr · Mar 21, 2009

Interesting - I don't recall any instructions regarding a separate petcock in the instruction manual. I'll go peek tomorrow.

mjfox6 · Apr 20, 2009

I changed out my coolant this past weekend. I drained it, flushed it with Prestone Flush and distilled water, drained it, flushed it with distilled water and then filled it with new coolant. You can remove the lid from the reservoir tank and then slide it straight up to remove it. That made it easy to drain and rinse out.

I ran the tractor at PTO speed for 10 minutes each time and allowed it to cool about 40 minutes before draining.

Thanks canoetrpr!

teg · Apr 20, 2009

I did mine two weeks ago... (and THANKS for the reminder, guys)

Drained, flushed w/ just water, then flushed it with Prestone Flush, then flushed it four more times with just water. I would drain from the plug and pulled the lower hose from the engine each time. It was extra work but felt that enough fluid came out from the engine block to justify it.

.

Elliott Wave · Jul 30, 2010

Hi,

I just turned two years on my Tractor (L3400 hst with loader and backhoe) and started to investigate the coolant change. I have 160 hours on the Tractor and it is stored in a garage. I have never changed coolant on cars but since I paid a whole lot more for my Tractor, I want to make sure I go by the book...

After reading through this thread and the other one it the lubricant section, I went to my dealer to see if they sell the coolant and a flush cleaner. When I indicated that I was looking to change the coolant after 2 years, they did not think it was critical to change. I was told that they use regular NAPA coolant UPC# 74804 00823 (comes in a blue container, its green, ethylene glycol, it requires mixing). I asked if I had them do it would they use a flush cleaner? I was told typically not if it looks clean.

I guess I am leaning to draining the coolant, putting demineralized water in the radiator and run the tractor for a few minutes and than drain the water, and then put the same NAPA coolant in (premix type instead of mixing it myself).

Thoughts?

AMR · Jul 30, 2010

I did my B3030 as teg describes, I drained it through the petcock on the lowest hose, flushed with warm tap water run and drain, flushed with prestone radiator flush run and drain, flushed once more with warm tap water run and drain, then I filled it with pre-mixed NAPA HD diesel engine coolant, it is a nice red color. I sucked the old green stuff out of the reservoir, rinsed that too and filled that to the fill mark. I only waited a few minutes between flushes. I used warm water to fill the radiator for the flushes so I wouldn't warp or crack anything if the engine was too hot.

number two · Jul 30, 2010

If the coolant in the tractor looks OK,I prefer not to flush but drain as much coolant as possible-radiator,block drains if acsessible,expansion bottle,etc.By flushing with water,the coolant that remains in the engine becomes diluted with water.If a 50/50 mix is then added to the system,the preferred 50/50 mix(-34F)many of us desire is diluted by the remaining coolant.This method eliminates having to mess around with taking hydrometer or refractometer readings to measure the freeze point.Good Luck!