L3400 Engine Dying

Milton Burro · May 30, 2011

Starts and runs fine, but when I begin to let out on the clutch it dies. It's an intermittent problem that just began this evening. Any ideas from this panel of experts? I tried a search before I posted, and will try to check the seat switch tomorrow, just thought someone may know of another possible cause. 2008, 136 hours.

ctgoldwing · Jun 1, 2011

Although probably not the problem, it takes only a second to check. . .

A year ago my 3400 died & I couldn't get it started. Turned out to be the bleeder on fuel line had come loose (from vibration???). As I recall its just above the filter - lil knob.

Good luck!

PoorMansCat · Jun 1, 2011

Milton Burro said:
Starts and runs fine, but when I begin to let out on the clutch it dies. It's an intermittent problem that just began this evening. Any ideas from this panel of experts? I tried a search before I posted, and will try to check the seat switch tomorrow, just thought someone may know of another possible cause. 2008, 136 hours.

Does it die like you are turning the key off or is it bogging down/stumbling/studdering???
If its just shutting off like you killed the key, I would TEMPORARILY bypass the various safety kills until you find which one is shutting you down....

teg · Jun 1, 2011

PoorMansCat said:
Does it die like you are turning the key off or is it bogging down/stumbling/studdering???
If its just shutting off like you killed the key, I would TEMPORARILY bypass the various safety kills until you find which one is shutting you down....

If it boggs down, check the parking break...:ashamed: don't ask why...

Milton Burro · Jun 2, 2011

It dies like I'm turning the key off, push the clutch in and it picks up and runs again.

teg · Jun 2, 2011

Gear or HST? I played with my HST, unplugging safety switches and nothing like you said happen. I guess you have a gear (DT) is there a safety switch to have to have it in neutral... no that keeps the key from ever turning over the engine... humm...

Milton Burro · Jun 2, 2011

Yessir,, manual trans. Perhaps there's a switch on the clutch?

grsthegreat · Jun 2, 2011

if it starts right up again as soon as the cutch is pushed back in i can bet its the seat switch or wires to that switch. make sure nothing is obstructing the seat fully engaging that switch. I know on my old JD i had a similar issue. it was the switch (nest under seat).

teg · Jun 2, 2011

I could unplug my seat Safety switch and start it from the ground... When I unplug the clutch safety switch, nothing happens with the key... same with the PTO. I'm at a loss...

grsthegreat · Jun 2, 2011

teg said:
I could unplug my seat Safety switch and start it from the ground... When I unplug the clutch safety switch, nothing happens with the key... same with the PTO. I'm at a loss...

unplugging wont cure the problem. then the switch thinks it not operational. when you sit in the seat you complete the circuit. If you lnow which wires go where with the seat switch (mine had 3 wires) yo can cross feed the wires after its unplugged. this eliminates the switch. i would assume the same for the other safety switches. Though i could not think why the clutch switch would be the issue as the engine is already running. if you unplug the clutch switch, the tractor thinks the clutch IS NOT engaged and wouldnt let you start tractor. The PTO switch would be the same, it would make the tractor think the PTO is engaged and not let you start tractor if its unplugged. Im still betting its the seat switch.

If your comfortable with it, you can wire a jumper accross the terminals and see if the tractor can then drive foreward. if it can, the seat switch is the fault.

leonz · Jun 2, 2011

I wonder if you have a herd of algae running around in the fuel tank and everytime you try to move it sloshes it enough to close the inlet screen?

grsthegreat · Jun 2, 2011

leonz said:
I wonder if you have a herd of algae running around in the fuel tank and everytime you try to move it sloshes it enough to close the inlet screen?

hes not moving it, hes simply depressing the clutch. and it revs back up if he depresses the clutch

leonz · Jun 2, 2011

grsthegreat said:
hes not moving it, hes simply depressing the clutch. and it revs back up if he depresses the clutch

UGH!, maybe tis a sticky brake then after all????

PoorMansCat · Jun 2, 2011

ya know, on my 4400 i can HEAR the fuel solenoid "click" when I turn the key on, then I hear another "click" when I turn the key off...... IF his tractor is the same, stands to reason he should be able to listen for the audible "click" when he starts releasing the clutch pedal...... this would tell us if its an electrical safety switch issue, or if its something else!!..
OP, Did you try releasing the clutch with the trans. in neutral, if so, what was the result?

Milton Burro · Jun 4, 2011

PoorMansCat said:
ya know, on my 4400 i can HEAR the fuel solenoid "click" when I turn the key on, then I hear another "click" when I turn the key off...... IF his tractor is the same, stands to reason he should be able to listen for the audible "click" when he starts releasing the clutch pedal...... this would tell us if its an electrical safety switch issue, or if its something else!!..
OP, Did you try releasing the clutch with the trans. in neutral, if so, what was the result?

I guess I wasn't clear enough on my first post. If pto is disengaged and trans in neutral, it doesn't die. I had to move my son across country the last few days so I haven't had a chance to look at it closer. Only when I have it in drive does it die.

PoorMansCat · Jun 4, 2011

Milton Burro said:
I guess I wasn't clear enough on my first post. If pto is disengaged and trans in neutral, it doesn't die. I had to move my son across country the last few days so I haven't had a chance to look at it closer. Only when I have it in drive does it die.

hhmmm... really sounds like the seat switch wiring... maybe someone on here has a wiring schematic they can post up to help trace the wiring... theres probably a way to temporarily bypass it

ritschner · Jun 5, 2011

The fact that it will start eliminates the PTO switch and that it will run in neutral eliminates the trans switch. I second the seat switch. To check the seat switch you will need a continuity tester. Unplug the seat switch from the wiring harness (there is a tab on the bottom that is hard to see, you may have to release the zip tie). There are three wires on the switch (black blue orange) that terminate in male pins in the connector. With the seat only all the way down there should be continuity between the black and orange wire only. With the seat only up there should be continuity between the black and blue wire only. Anything else and the switch is bad. If you need to drive it in the meantime, you can make a jumper with a a two inch piece of wire and two male spade connectors. Unplug the connector from the clutch switch and bridge the connector with the jumper. JUST REMEMBER, IT WILL NOW START IN GEAR WITH THE CLUTCH OUT!

Milton Burro · Jun 5, 2011

Finally got around to taking a look at it. Seems the seat switch was the culprit. With the seat down, the switch was right on the edge of make/break position. I removed it to see if I could adjust the lever but it is on a hex shaft and pinned to fit in one position only. Not only that, a different position on the shaft would move it too far out of range. A pair of channel locks to bend the metal tab down a little that activates the switch was all that was required. Talk about taking the long way around,,,

Thanks for all the feedback.