L3400 not starting
- Thread starter jenrow33
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jonyyuma
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2010
- Messages
- 2,504
- Location
- 35 miles North of Memphis,TN
- Tractor
- kubota L3000dt, ford 8n1952
Ok, MY L3000 Kubota , does this some and it is the Hi-, low switch on the transfer...I hold the key and find the sweet spot and it will crank..Some day I gotta lay under it an see whats up?
firemantractor
New member
That on mine is two micro switches. Those ohm out good and with it removed and manually pushing with key on you hear a click near the fuel site glass on the right side of the motor and when you push in the micro switches manually you have a slight clicking behind the dash so I assume its ok?
Last edited:
jonyyuma
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2010
- Messages
- 2,504
- Location
- 35 miles North of Memphis,TN
- Tractor
- kubota L3000dt, ford 8n1952
Okay, don't know about my being able to hear the click? I usually have my muffs on as my hearing is going bad quickly.? I will try to see about the relay, Mine is a 2007 also, so I am paying attention..
What does it do? absolutely nothing or is there a click? What does the battery read?
firemantractor
New member
pulled the battery from my car and put in it (optima yellow top) so battery is good. There is no clicking other than the first click when you turn the key on.
Im not getting power to the starter solenoid for some reason. All fuses look and ohm out fine. Main fuses near battery look and ohm out too. used compressed air and blew out every connection and even added an extra ground.
runs fine once jumped at starter but will not turn over on its own.
im trying to find out where the solenoid gets its power and to trace it back to battery but have not found a service or wiring manual.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Go here at messics and fill out the little online form for the L3400 and the electrical diagram.. they will email it to you pronto.
Kubota Parts for Tractors and Equipment
James K0UA
Chilly807
Elite Member
The gear version of the L3400 doesn't have a clutch switch, just a micro-switch on the range select lever. If you can jump the terminal and it starts then the starter is fine, if there's no power going to the starter solenoid then it's likely the starter relay.
I just checked mine, if any of the microswitches are not made you won't get the "click" from the fuel solenoid. For example, PTO engaged, no click. Range lever not in neutral, no click. Seat switch has no effect on starting, you can start mine from the ground, in the seat, or with the seat flipped up. However, the range lever has to be in neutral, which I think bypasses the seat switch.
The left most relay in your first picture is the starter relay. The picture I attached is not clear as a print, but they do indicate the left relay as being the starter relay. Where the "c" trails away in the text should read "check for continuity between terminal 1 and 3".
The following is the testing procedure according to Kubota WSM
1. Open the panel board and remove the starter relay.
2. Apply battery voltage between terminal 2 and 4, and check for
continuity between terminal 1 and 3.
3. If 0 ohm is not indicated, renew the starter relay.
Working back from that, one wire going to either pin 2 or 4 should be hot when the switch is turned to start with all safety switches made, the other should go to ground. If you have no power to the relay, it might be either the switch or the wiring between the two components. One wire going to either pin 1 or 3 should be hot all the time the key is on to provide a source for the starter solenoid, unless the safety system removes power before that point. I'd think it would interrupt power to the trigger side of the relay, not the main supply to it.
Sean
I just checked mine, if any of the microswitches are not made you won't get the "click" from the fuel solenoid. For example, PTO engaged, no click. Range lever not in neutral, no click. Seat switch has no effect on starting, you can start mine from the ground, in the seat, or with the seat flipped up. However, the range lever has to be in neutral, which I think bypasses the seat switch.
The left most relay in your first picture is the starter relay. The picture I attached is not clear as a print, but they do indicate the left relay as being the starter relay. Where the "c" trails away in the text should read "check for continuity between terminal 1 and 3".
The following is the testing procedure according to Kubota WSM
1. Open the panel board and remove the starter relay.
2. Apply battery voltage between terminal 2 and 4, and check for
continuity between terminal 1 and 3.
3. If 0 ohm is not indicated, renew the starter relay.
Working back from that, one wire going to either pin 2 or 4 should be hot when the switch is turned to start with all safety switches made, the other should go to ground. If you have no power to the relay, it might be either the switch or the wiring between the two components. One wire going to either pin 1 or 3 should be hot all the time the key is on to provide a source for the starter solenoid, unless the safety system removes power before that point. I'd think it would interrupt power to the trigger side of the relay, not the main supply to it.
Sean
Attachments
firemantractor
New member
Wow, a bunch or great info! Thanks guys.
I did however find the issue when I got back home. The relay was good but wire broke inside of plug.
Its all back together and working great, well that is I now have to adjust the micro switches from where i removed them earlier as one dont quite make the contact. I kinda like it that way so no one can run off with the tractor!!
Relay is marked, and wire marked that was corroded and broken inside.
I did however find the issue when I got back home. The relay was good but wire broke inside of plug.
Its all back together and working great, well that is I now have to adjust the micro switches from where i removed them earlier as one dont quite make the contact. I kinda like it that way so no one can run off with the tractor!!
Relay is marked, and wire marked that was corroded and broken inside.
