Hey all - I recently bought an L3560 with a cab. I've got a pretty hilly property and I've been using the tractor with a Brush Hog to clear out some of the overgrown sections. It's my first cabbed tractor and I'm struggling with figuring out if I'm within the "danger zone" in some sections or if I'm just being paranoid. It was a lot easier to feel the angles with my previous non-cabbed tractor but now I'm a little more removed from the environment in my little cab. I don't have wheel spacers or anything. Would an angle meter or something help me out to know how close I might be, or is there something else I could look for?
L3560 with cab. How would I know if I'm close to rolling over?
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jeff9366
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I don't have wheel spacers or anything.
The easiest way to improve stability on your L3560 is to increase the spread between your rear wheels/tires. Spread adjustability when the rear of the tractor is jacked up is built into this model. Incrrement options are shown in your Owner/Operator's Manual.
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The easiest way to improve stability on your L3560 is to increase the spread between your rear wheels/tires. Spread adjustability when the rear of the tractor is jacked up is built into this model. Incrrement options are shown in your Owner/Operator's Manual.
Prospective purchase for the mountains.
Hey all, Last year, we purchased 105 acres in the mountains of Western North Carolina that are mostly wooded with about 6 acres of meadows in hollows and plenty of overgrown old logging roads that we'd like to reclaim. The prior owners quit maintaining everything a few years ago except for the...
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MossRoad
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There's always this method...
But seriously, an incline meter can help for generalization. However, if a tire drops in a groundhog hole, goes over a hidden rock, chunk of dropped firewood, etc., things can change quickly. Familiarity of the land can help greatly, however those groundhogs move around. Recent rains can make hidden depressions, washouts, things like that as well.
Best bet is common sense, go slow, not across the hills if you don't have to, but up and down if possible, seat time builds a feel for the machine, keep loads as low as possible.
You can quickly check the slope of a hill with a 2x4 and angle gauge if you're curious about the actual slope of a place VS perceived slope.
But seriously, an incline meter can help for generalization. However, if a tire drops in a groundhog hole, goes over a hidden rock, chunk of dropped firewood, etc., things can change quickly. Familiarity of the land can help greatly, however those groundhogs move around. Recent rains can make hidden depressions, washouts, things like that as well.
Best bet is common sense, go slow, not across the hills if you don't have to, but up and down if possible, seat time builds a feel for the machine, keep loads as low as possible.
You can quickly check the slope of a hill with a 2x4 and angle gauge if you're curious about the actual slope of a place VS perceived slope.
IndyIan
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Try backing up in 2wd across a slope you are worried about, on a slight up angle. If the up rear tire is getting light it will spin much easier. Also you can just park it on the side slope and rock the tractor yourself or use a long 2x4 as a lever and try to lift the the uphill tire off ground on the rear axle. Gives you an idea how close you are getting.
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Thomas
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One time Tractorbynet offer tilt meters.
ROUSTABOUT
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You'll know you're close to tipping when the rear tire on the uphill side starts spinning. Provided you aren't in 4x4. Tilt meters only work on cranes. A tractor can be on so many different angles and it would be a different degree each time. Being 90° to the slope versus being angled uphill, downhill, how much angle each time, different tilt. Just when it spins, turn down hill.
RjCorazza
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I think that may be where I got mine many years ago. Unfortunately the OP'S question does not have a simple black and white answer.
There are simply too many variables, some of which have already been mentioned.
The inclinometer is a great tool for me to note where my "pucker factor" begins, but interestingly, that begins at a reasonable 10 degrees for me. Anything steeper than 15 degrees I generally backup the slope and drive back down. I'm a little more aggressive with my zero turns on slopes... generally limited to a maximum of 28 degrees under PERFECT conditions.
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Drive in reverse, pushing the mower. If you are on a steep angle and tire hits a hole or rock, the back tire is bigger and more forgiving. Tractors have always felt more stable pushing the mower on slopes in reverse to me after 30 years of commercial bush hogging. The weight and very low center of gravity of the mower tends to keep it planted on the hillside better.
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I disagree with Jeff in post #2. This size Kubota is notorious in my opinion for lacking enough rear wheel spacing adjustment. BY FAR the best thing you can do is install 6" wheel spacers each side. Your comfort, confidence AND safety will increase by leaps and bounds. [I did exactly that on a B2150 and it went from nervous to comfy on a 45% slope sideways.] Of course spread the wheels as much as you can with factory design but I'm betting it is way too narrow for use on steep ground. PLEASE ignore post #4 and do not go trying to pry your uphill wheel off the ground under ANY circumstances!
RjCorazza has it about right in terms of steepness: his 28 degrees works out to a roughly 53% slope and you do not want to be operating on any steeper slope than that -- if that steep. I run a MF2660 low profile model with rear tires 8ft apart at the outer edges and ~ 50% is my limit. Of course you can come DOWN a little steeper slope letting the tractor down using brakes in 4WD etc. but there are so many ways to get in trouble.
I have lost VERY experienced tractor operating friends rolling over while bush hogging. At some point you have to compare the value of a clean hillside to the value of your life !!
About slopes: I am no fan of inclinometers and gadgets that just distract you from concentrating on operating the tractor. But when you have land you regularly mow, or will mow, it is helpful to know what degree/% slope your are dealing with.
I built a crude measuring device using a 1x2 piece of lumber, a printed chart of slope angles and a thread with weight dangling from the thread to measure the slope. I use a piece of stiff wire in each end of the 1x2 in order to stick the gadget in the ground standing on it's own while I satisfy myself that the 1x2 is parallel to the slope. Sorry for the low quality photo.
This below shows a 24 degrees (45%) measured slope.
To the right in this picture below measures 45%. That is also the B2150 with 6" spacers added on each side rear.
And finally, measure it this way if you have a helper. Do the math.
RjCorazza has it about right in terms of steepness: his 28 degrees works out to a roughly 53% slope and you do not want to be operating on any steeper slope than that -- if that steep. I run a MF2660 low profile model with rear tires 8ft apart at the outer edges and ~ 50% is my limit. Of course you can come DOWN a little steeper slope letting the tractor down using brakes in 4WD etc. but there are so many ways to get in trouble.
I have lost VERY experienced tractor operating friends rolling over while bush hogging. At some point you have to compare the value of a clean hillside to the value of your life !!
About slopes: I am no fan of inclinometers and gadgets that just distract you from concentrating on operating the tractor. But when you have land you regularly mow, or will mow, it is helpful to know what degree/% slope your are dealing with.
I built a crude measuring device using a 1x2 piece of lumber, a printed chart of slope angles and a thread with weight dangling from the thread to measure the slope. I use a piece of stiff wire in each end of the 1x2 in order to stick the gadget in the ground standing on it's own while I satisfy myself that the 1x2 is parallel to the slope. Sorry for the low quality photo.
This below shows a 24 degrees (45%) measured slope.
To the right in this picture below measures 45%. That is also the B2150 with 6" spacers added on each side rear.
And finally, measure it this way if you have a helper. Do the math.