L3800 HST Rear Remote Hydraulics

[DeltaBravo]

Hi All! My name is Dave and after lurking on this site for a few days and researching all I can find on the topic of adding rear remotes to a Kubota L series tractor, I still have a few questions for the experts. I'm planning on adding a 2 spool valve with one spool float capable. The valve that I have decided on is the Price MB21GB5C1. What I have learned so far, is that I will supply the new valve from the power beyond line coming from the FEL valve and route a return line from the power beyond port of the new valve back to the manifold port where the loader valve PB line was previously attached to. Correct? I will plug the two other outlet ports on the new valve. Here is a list of my other questions:

1) I do not understand how the float works. By putting the float spool valve in detent, does this allow the 3 point to float when using, for example, a box blade?

2)After the installation is complete, there will be air in the new lines. Is there a vent in the hydraulic system? I will need to add more hydraulic fluid to compensate for pressurizing the new valve/lines?

3)The pump capacity on my tractor (L3800 HST) is 6.3 gpm. The new valve that I will be adding is rated at 8 gpm. Is this ok?

I have not purchased the valve yet. I want to make sure that I have a clear understanding of how all of this works before I put my tractor out of service to begin this project. I priced the kit from my Kubota dealer for just a single spool valve and it was $1000. It seems that I should be able to purchase the valve, lines, and fittings for around $500 and install them myself. Any and all info or advice you can provide is very appreciated! Thanks and have a great day.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Hi Dave, welcome to the site.

I added a 4 spool to my B3300, the process should be the same for your L. There are a couple things with your understanding that are not accurate -- unless there is something funky with the way the factory did it. You are certainly right about the price of the Kubota kit. I did my 4 spool for about $600. Here's a couple pics of mine http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/290254-4-spool-rear-remote-install.html?highlight=, I recommend adding as many spools as you have room for. There is no such thing as too many sets of remotes.

Existing setup should be like this:
PB from the loader valve feeds the IN of the 3pt hitch
RETURN of the 3pt hitch goes back to the tank.

The way you want to install the new valve should be like this:
PB from the loader valve to the IN of the new valve
RETURN of the new valve 'T' into the RETURN line of the 3pt hitch (I did mine by changing the fittings right at the tank as per the Kubota manual)
PB of the new valve to the IN of the 3pt hitch.
The 2 pair of work ports of the new valve will have QDs for your attachments
The 3pt will function exactly as it does now.
With a 2 spool valve, you should be using 7 ports total to have it correctly installed.

 

[DeltaBravo]

Thanks for the reply and the pics, CDN. Your install looks great! Sounds like I need to locate the return line from the 3pt to the tank and install a T to accommodate a RETURN from the new valve. Then run a line between the PB port of the new valve to the manifold block on the right side to supply the 3pt. I understand. After my install is complete and I fire up the tractor the first time, I should check the level of the hydraulic fluid and will need to add more? Thank you for your input!

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Sounds like you have the idea now. Yup, check for leaks and the level. Not likely that the level will change much as you are only filling a few feet of hose and the new valve but always good to check. I don't think mine went down more than 1/2 liter. Whenever you hook up a brand new or new-to-you implement, you should also check the hyd level. It's typically the long hoses and cyl of the implements that make the level go down the first time they are filled.

 

[s219]

The L3800 3-pt does not have an external return line to the tank -- that is all internal to the case. I think you could likely tee into the return line for the front loader though.

The L3800 does have a return port built into the side of the transmission case (it's where the factory valves would bolt on). That might be a good option. You'd need to make some sort of fitting block with an o-ring seal to bolt over the port. If I recall right, the cover blank is a rounded triangular shape with three bolts. It's on the right side of the tractor roughly near the 3-pt lever area, down below on the case.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here is a diagram

 

[DeltaBravo]

THANK YOU!!! That diagram clears it up!

 

[RedTailHawk]

What are your thoughts on rear remote hydraulics from Fitritehydraulics.com? I'm talking to them about a 3 spool valve system, 2 with the float function intended to be used with the top & tilt set and the 3rd a spring return to center valve, typically used for implement hydraulics. Anyone have experience with their products? Where do people typically install the valve mount?

 

[Baby Grand]

What are your thoughts on rear remote hydraulics from Fitritehydraulics.com? I'm talking to them about a 3 spool valve system, 2 with the float function intended to be used with the top & tilt set and the 3rd a spring return to center valve, typically used for implement hydraulics. Anyone have experience with their products? Where do people typically install the valve mount?

I don't have Brian's remotes, but I suspect they are first rate.
This is based on the TnT kit that he supplied for my tractor.
He does quality work, is easy to communicate with and stands behind what he sells.
I am very pleased with the gear that he supplied for me.
It really transformed my L into a much more efficient and versatile machine.
-Jim

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What are your thoughts on rear remote hydraulics from Fitritehydraulics.com? I'm talking to them about a 3 spool valve system, 2 with the float function intended to be used with the top & tilt set and the 3rd a spring return to center valve, typically used for implement hydraulics. Anyone have experience with their products? Where do people typically install the valve mount?

Off the ROPS above the fender. Until the last few years, even Kubota mounted the valves there on the std L models.

Something similar to the picture.

 

[teg]

Where do you plan to mount the spool? What's your main use for the float feature? I don't have it and wonder what I might be missing.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Where do you plan to mount the spool? What's your main use for the float feature? I don't have it and wonder what I might be missing.

Having the float feature with the top link allows you to have your 3pt mower follow the terrain better. Yes most mowers have the swivel hitch mount, but even that is not enough for some uses. An example would be pond banks if they happen to be steep.

For the side link, finish smoothing of a road at intersections such as driveways where the camber of the road changes as you go around the corner. This allows the implement to follow the road contour, not the tractor.

This is just a single example for each, I know that there are more for the side link for sure.

 

[teg]

Having the float feature with the top link allows you to have your 3pt mower follow the terrain better. Yes most mowers have the swivel hitch mount...

Thanks, I've not hooked up my toplink to my mower, I saw people here on TBN running without one. It works fine. Any time I've needed to avoid an obstacles, just raising the 3ph arms works for me.

I just could not figure why you want a box blade to float more. 3ph doesn't put any down pressure on the box so it's basically floating. I would rather have 3 spools like this one which is cheaper, https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...L-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB31BBB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7863.axd

I just have not had a need for float... when I did, I just pulled the pin on the 3ph arm.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks, I've not hooked up my toplink to my mower, I saw people here on TBN running without one. It works fine. Any time I've needed to avoid an obstacles, just raising the 3ph arms works for me.

I just could not figure why you want a box blade to float more. 3ph doesn't put any down pressure on the box so it's basically floating. I would rather have 3 spools like this one which is cheaper, https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...L-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB31BBB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7863.axd

I just have not had a need for float... when I did, I just pulled the pin on the 3ph arm.

While removing the top link may work for some, I assure you that it would not be fine for everyone.

While the 3pt hitch floats, it does not float independently side-side. Pulling the side link pin works, but if a person has to do that on a regular basis, by far nicer to have the float feature. John Deere and some others even provide this manual float feature for many of their tractors as seen with the left hand side link in the picture. Turn the pin 90* and you have 1" of independent float capability, do both links and you have 2". Use the float feature of a side link and have that much or more depending on the stroke of the side link being used.


Imagine doing what you are suggesting every couple of minutes or even less, every 30 seconds, you simply would not and you end up with "That's good enough syndrome".

But when that capability is at your finger tips, very easy to make use of it. This feature is not required what so ever, but for those of us that do make use of it often, I believe that most of us would not be without it.

Just my :2cents: based on my own personal use and that of many of my customers.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Thanks, I've not hooked up my toplink to my mower, I saw people here on TBN running without one. It works fine. Any time I've needed to avoid an obstacles, just raising the 3ph arms works for me.

I just could not figure why you want a box blade to float more. 3ph doesn't put any down pressure on the box so it's basically floating. I would rather have 3 spools like this one which is cheaper, https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...L-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB31BBB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7863.axd

I just have not had a need for float... when I did, I just pulled the pin on the 3ph arm.

That's the valve I used -- well, almost. I got the 4 spool for $35 more. Even if you don't need all 4 now, it's pretty easy just to cap them for future.

I agree with what Brian is saying about the float feature. The other side of the "once you have it you'll never be without" is "if you've never had it, you don't know what you are missing" I'm in the second category. I've managed just fine for 30yrs without float, or a full T&T for that matter. I'm just about to add my first hyd toplink ever for my current log grapple build.

 

[teg]

...I got the 4 spool for $35 more....

Yup, worst $35 I ever saved... I "thought" 3 was more than enough!!! Wish I had it now to angle my blade...

 

[Fallon]

My 3 spool setup with float came from FitRite. I'd recommend him. I designed my system with his help. My only regret is where I put the quick disconnects. They crowd the 3pt to much.

 

[RedTailHawk]

Where would you put them? Do you have a pic of your setup?

 

[Fallon]

https://goo.gl/photos/rzhW7XJYYcbyD2p76

https://goo.gl/photos/NHtzwyRhRzFJxLoV7

https://goo.gl/photos/TF8zQeQngScncGk98

https://goo.gl/photos/MUR8xJ3jyUVk8HT18

https://goo.gl/photos/6T5fn2CsLqdJx3Yz9

I'm really happy with how I have the spools mounted & the joystick for TnT. Less so with the QDs. Part or the problem I'm sure is the fact I use a Quick Hitch, which crowds things back there even more. My first set of hoses for the TnT weren't the right length & got chewed up (toplink hose at one point snagged on the QH top bracket & was holding my box blade from dropping. The new hoses are a lot better, but have a few scrapes on them. This was my first hydraulic project ever & a very good learning experience (I.e. a bit expensive, I broke a few thing & ordered a few of the wrong things, etc). I'd do it differently a bit knowing what I know now, but would still do it all over again in a heartbeat. I'm happy with the support & advice I got from Brian @ FitRite, even though he wasn't enough of a psychic to know some of the hose lengths I ordered weren't quite right.

As far as where to move the QDs to? I'd say mount them a bit higher & possibly on the outside of the ROPS instead of inside. Would look uglier, but wouldn't jam stuff in back there as tight. The QH crowds things a bit & you are already fighting 6 axises for a whole lot of movement all over the place on a smaller tractor. Putting the QDs a little further away would put them farther from the QH & let you route things a little better.

 

[s219]

The factory kit puts the quick disconnects outside the ROPS, just above the right tail light. I contemplated putting the bracket to the inside, but honestly, there's just not enough space on this fairly narrow tractor. With placement to the outside, I use about a 60" hose length, with a loop, to run to the top link and side link. With that loop, the hose can coil itself when the 3-pt is raised, and stay tucked in. Without a loop, any hose that would be long enough to handle the lowest position would end up bunched up and sticking out the back 12-16" when raised to the highest position.

Here's a photo of the hose and loop before I put a hose cover over the pair.



I should note that I tried a whole bunch of configurations and hose lengths before I settled on this arrangement. Sometimes I look at it and wonder if it could be improved, but I remember all the trial and error and realize this is probably as good as I can get it.