L3800 HST Rear Remote Hydraulics

[teg]

Where do you plan to mount the spool? What's your main use for the float feature? I don't have it and wonder what I might be missing.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Where do you plan to mount the spool? What's your main use for the float feature? I don't have it and wonder what I might be missing.

Having the float feature with the top link allows you to have your 3pt mower follow the terrain better. Yes most mowers have the swivel hitch mount, but even that is not enough for some uses. An example would be pond banks if they happen to be steep.

For the side link, finish smoothing of a road at intersections such as driveways where the camber of the road changes as you go around the corner. This allows the implement to follow the road contour, not the tractor.

This is just a single example for each, I know that there are more for the side link for sure.

 

[teg]

Having the float feature with the top link allows you to have your 3pt mower follow the terrain better. Yes most mowers have the swivel hitch mount...

Thanks, I've not hooked up my toplink to my mower, I saw people here on TBN running without one. It works fine. Any time I've needed to avoid an obstacles, just raising the 3ph arms works for me.

I just could not figure why you want a box blade to float more. 3ph doesn't put any down pressure on the box so it's basically floating. I would rather have 3 spools like this one which is cheaper, https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...L-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB31BBB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7863.axd

I just have not had a need for float... when I did, I just pulled the pin on the 3ph arm.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks, I've not hooked up my toplink to my mower, I saw people here on TBN running without one. It works fine. Any time I've needed to avoid an obstacles, just raising the 3ph arms works for me.

I just could not figure why you want a box blade to float more. 3ph doesn't put any down pressure on the box so it's basically floating. I would rather have 3 spools like this one which is cheaper, https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...L-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB31BBB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7863.axd

I just have not had a need for float... when I did, I just pulled the pin on the 3ph arm.

While removing the top link may work for some, I assure you that it would not be fine for everyone.

While the 3pt hitch floats, it does not float independently side-side. Pulling the side link pin works, but if a person has to do that on a regular basis, by far nicer to have the float feature. John Deere and some others even provide this manual float feature for many of their tractors as seen with the left hand side link in the picture. Turn the pin 90* and you have 1" of independent float capability, do both links and you have 2". Use the float feature of a side link and have that much or more depending on the stroke of the side link being used.


Imagine doing what you are suggesting every couple of minutes or even less, every 30 seconds, you simply would not and you end up with "That's good enough syndrome".

But when that capability is at your finger tips, very easy to make use of it. This feature is not required what so ever, but for those of us that do make use of it often, I believe that most of us would not be without it.

Just my :2cents: based on my own personal use and that of many of my customers.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Thanks, I've not hooked up my toplink to my mower, I saw people here on TBN running without one. It works fine. Any time I've needed to avoid an obstacles, just raising the 3ph arms works for me.

I just could not figure why you want a box blade to float more. 3ph doesn't put any down pressure on the box so it's basically floating. I would rather have 3 spools like this one which is cheaper, https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...L-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB31BBB5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7863.axd

I just have not had a need for float... when I did, I just pulled the pin on the 3ph arm.

That's the valve I used -- well, almost. I got the 4 spool for $35 more. Even if you don't need all 4 now, it's pretty easy just to cap them for future.

I agree with what Brian is saying about the float feature. The other side of the "once you have it you'll never be without" is "if you've never had it, you don't know what you are missing" I'm in the second category. I've managed just fine for 30yrs without float, or a full T&T for that matter. I'm just about to add my first hyd toplink ever for my current log grapple build.

 

[teg]

...I got the 4 spool for $35 more....

Yup, worst $35 I ever saved... I "thought" 3 was more than enough!!! Wish I had it now to angle my blade...

 

[Fallon]

My 3 spool setup with float came from FitRite. I'd recommend him. I designed my system with his help. My only regret is where I put the quick disconnects. They crowd the 3pt to much.

 

[RedTailHawk]

Where would you put them? Do you have a pic of your setup?

 

[Fallon]

https://goo.gl/photos/rzhW7XJYYcbyD2p76

https://goo.gl/photos/NHtzwyRhRzFJxLoV7

https://goo.gl/photos/TF8zQeQngScncGk98

https://goo.gl/photos/MUR8xJ3jyUVk8HT18

https://goo.gl/photos/6T5fn2CsLqdJx3Yz9

I'm really happy with how I have the spools mounted & the joystick for TnT. Less so with the QDs. Part or the problem I'm sure is the fact I use a Quick Hitch, which crowds things back there even more. My first set of hoses for the TnT weren't the right length & got chewed up (toplink hose at one point snagged on the QH top bracket & was holding my box blade from dropping. The new hoses are a lot better, but have a few scrapes on them. This was my first hydraulic project ever & a very good learning experience (I.e. a bit expensive, I broke a few thing & ordered a few of the wrong things, etc). I'd do it differently a bit knowing what I know now, but would still do it all over again in a heartbeat. I'm happy with the support & advice I got from Brian @ FitRite, even though he wasn't enough of a psychic to know some of the hose lengths I ordered weren't quite right.

As far as where to move the QDs to? I'd say mount them a bit higher & possibly on the outside of the ROPS instead of inside. Would look uglier, but wouldn't jam stuff in back there as tight. The QH crowds things a bit & you are already fighting 6 axises for a whole lot of movement all over the place on a smaller tractor. Putting the QDs a little further away would put them farther from the QH & let you route things a little better.

 

[s219]

The factory kit puts the quick disconnects outside the ROPS, just above the right tail light. I contemplated putting the bracket to the inside, but honestly, there's just not enough space on this fairly narrow tractor. With placement to the outside, I use about a 60" hose length, with a loop, to run to the top link and side link. With that loop, the hose can coil itself when the 3-pt is raised, and stay tucked in. Without a loop, any hose that would be long enough to handle the lowest position would end up bunched up and sticking out the back 12-16" when raised to the highest position.

Here's a photo of the hose and loop before I put a hose cover over the pair.



I should note that I tried a whole bunch of configurations and hose lengths before I settled on this arrangement. Sometimes I look at it and wonder if it could be improved, but I remember all the trial and error and realize this is probably as good as I can get it.