L39 Backhoe Thumb?
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shasta
Bronze Member
catvet,
Last year my dealer put a mechanical thumb on my L39 for me(~$800). If I remember correctly it is a Germore. It work great for my needs. When I when shopping for it he said the Kubota makes a kit for a hydraulic thumb. I think it was something like $1500-1700 plus the thumb.
Last year my dealer put a mechanical thumb on my L39 for me(~$800). If I remember correctly it is a Germore. It work great for my needs. When I when shopping for it he said the Kubota makes a kit for a hydraulic thumb. I think it was something like $1500-1700 plus the thumb.
I recently talked with my dealer and he said that there is no new news on a Kubota thumb for the L39. My dealer has an aftermarket Hydraulic one which he would install (around $3000 total). Also manual for around $1000. For the moment I'm holding off. The wife has agreed to allow me to rent an excavator for pond building and other chores. Would rather do that this year than get the thumb. Also looking at the M59 for a year down the road which I would certainly get with backhoe and thumb if it happened.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I have an Addington hydraulic thumb for my Deere 110 TLB.
At the time I bought it, the word on TBN was that the Deere thumbs were soft.
I am very satisfied with it, and I believe they are available for the L-39.
A hydraulic thumb can do things a mechanical thumb just can't, although a good operator can work around some of that.
For my money, one of the biggest reasons to get a hydraulic thumb is safety. I know that I would be too lazy to reposition the TLB to change the thumb position, and the biggest uses for a thumb are in terrain which is very uneven and rocky or brushy. I just plain think the possibility of a fall in this terrain while dismounting and going out to reposition a mechanical thumb is fairly high.
At the time I bought it, the word on TBN was that the Deere thumbs were soft.
I am very satisfied with it, and I believe they are available for the L-39.
A hydraulic thumb can do things a mechanical thumb just can't, although a good operator can work around some of that.
For my money, one of the biggest reasons to get a hydraulic thumb is safety. I know that I would be too lazy to reposition the TLB to change the thumb position, and the biggest uses for a thumb are in terrain which is very uneven and rocky or brushy. I just plain think the possibility of a fall in this terrain while dismounting and going out to reposition a mechanical thumb is fairly high.
Alt5600
Member
That is exactly the reasons why I'd want one. I have 35+ acres backing up to a hill with lots of rocks EVERYWHERE ... up the hill and down into the pasture. The don't call it The Rockies for nothing. One of these days, I'll be carving switch-backs up the hill, and a thumb would be ideal.
It looks like the L39 will be a good fit for me (could use a bit more hydraulics), but I do wish it came with a hydraulic-thumb mount (at a minimum) much like the B26 and M59. I had posted another thread on this a while back and under a different username, but the dealer I spoke with was talking about welding the mount onto the dipperstick and installing something like the U25 thumb on it. I can see how that could be possible, but still it seems like it could potentially lead to problems if it wasn't done exactly right ... alignment issues, popping-off the mount due to poor weld or too much hydraulic-power. Maybe you guys can share your thoughts here.
I'll look into the Addington. The 110 has a mount already on the dipper though, right? Despite the 110 being a preference, I haven't looked at it much because I've been under the assumption that it'll cost a lot more than the fully-loaded L39 that I want. I ran the "build your own" tool on the Deere website, but it was showing something that was way out of my range.
It looks like the L39 will be a good fit for me (could use a bit more hydraulics), but I do wish it came with a hydraulic-thumb mount (at a minimum) much like the B26 and M59. I had posted another thread on this a while back and under a different username, but the dealer I spoke with was talking about welding the mount onto the dipperstick and installing something like the U25 thumb on it. I can see how that could be possible, but still it seems like it could potentially lead to problems if it wasn't done exactly right ... alignment issues, popping-off the mount due to poor weld or too much hydraulic-power. Maybe you guys can share your thoughts here.
I'll look into the Addington. The 110 has a mount already on the dipper though, right? Despite the 110 being a preference, I haven't looked at it much because I've been under the assumption that it'll cost a lot more than the fully-loaded L39 that I want. I ran the "build your own" tool on the Deere website, but it was showing something that was way out of my range.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
The 110 has a mount already on the dipper though, right?
It mounts in two places. The thumb pivots on a pin which is longer than the stock bucket pivot pin and they give you a drop-in replacement. It is not as good a quality as the stock pin, but no problems so far.
The hydraulic cylinder mounts to a plate which must be welded to the dipperstick. It cost me about $150 to have a welder come out and put it on.
I had no worries about the weld weakening something else, and so far it has been great.
Check out what a 110 really costs at a dealership. I paid a lot less than list price.
The only issue is that you need to order it with all of the hydraulics you will ever need because they can not be added once it leaves the factory. My dealer just ordered them loaded and that is how I got mine.
The L39s seemed cheaper, but when I added in the cost of all the hydraulics and considered the value of HST (which is great) vs. GST (I haven't tried that but it seems less than HST), the 110 was very competitive. About $1500 higher than a similar L39, but what is the value of HST, which isn't even available on the L39?
It mounts in two places. The thumb pivots on a pin which is longer than the stock bucket pivot pin and they give you a drop-in replacement. It is not as good a quality as the stock pin, but no problems so far.
The hydraulic cylinder mounts to a plate which must be welded to the dipperstick. It cost me about $150 to have a welder come out and put it on.
I had no worries about the weld weakening something else, and so far it has been great.
Check out what a 110 really costs at a dealership. I paid a lot less than list price.
The only issue is that you need to order it with all of the hydraulics you will ever need because they can not be added once it leaves the factory. My dealer just ordered them loaded and that is how I got mine.
The L39s seemed cheaper, but when I added in the cost of all the hydraulics and considered the value of HST (which is great) vs. GST (I haven't tried that but it seems less than HST), the 110 was very competitive. About $1500 higher than a similar L39, but what is the value of HST, which isn't even available on the L39?
yekrut
Silver Member
I'm heading down to my dealer next week to pick up a new Landscape Rake, Boxblade and to check out the M59. I will ask about the thumb options for the L39. I anyone will know they will.
I compared the 110 and L39 about a year ago. Drove both and priced both at multiple dealers. Price wise I never got closer than $4500 between the two with as similar specs as you can make them. I liked the 110. That's where I started looking. The one thing that really bothered me was how expose the hydraulic were under the machine. Crazy. They said you can get undercarriage protection for them but it just blows my mind they designed it that way. There were several other considerations that went into my decision but I ultimately went with the L39. I'm at 175hrs and have no regrets.
I compared the 110 and L39 about a year ago. Drove both and priced both at multiple dealers. Price wise I never got closer than $4500 between the two with as similar specs as you can make them. I liked the 110. That's where I started looking. The one thing that really bothered me was how expose the hydraulic were under the machine. Crazy. They said you can get undercarriage protection for them but it just blows my mind they designed it that way. There were several other considerations that went into my decision but I ultimately went with the L39. I'm at 175hrs and have no regrets.
Alt5600
Member
I looked at the Addington website. I've seen them before. I requested some information to be sent since their site is quite thin.
The remainder of this response is crying out to be in another thread and I'm sure this may stir-up a war-of-colors, but ...
Admittedly, I have been so focused on the L39 and trying to make sure it will fit my needs that I have neglected the 110 to a degree. I like the power in the slightly smaller package of the L39. That said, I will make my purchase color-blind, and I know the 110 will do everything that I want without question. So why not go with the 110? Potential cost. A fully-loaded L39 is about ~$40k (with spoiler and racing-stripes), and the equivalent 110 (build your own ... known to be higher) was ~$50k+. Once the boss gives me the financial go-ahead for a machine, I fully intend to do due-diligence and take a look at the 110 price/financing at the dealer in order to get the real story. I just want to have alternatives. There is a JD dealer on the very-very-long-way home from work that I intend to stop at (time-permitting ... yeah right).
The L39 has to be factory-ordered with all of the remote hydraulics as well ... and cannot (will not) be added after the fact. Waiting for the order is not a problem as long as I get what I want ... once I know what I want ... which takes the longest time for me. I suffer from analysis-paralysis at times, and especially on high-dollar items. However, once I make a decision, I have absolutely no regrets.
I've questioned the transmission issue ... especially since I'll be doing some hill-work. My understanding is that GST is not as good as the HST due to the rolling-potential during the brief pause while shifting. I'm not certain I'd be brave enough to be shifting out of the lowest gear or going faster on a slope anyway ... but I have to check it out. The thumb and transmission are my #1 and #2 open-issues on the L39 that I need to be comfortable with prior to making a decision that it is a viable option for me. Some TBN threads have mentioned the exposed hydraulics underneath the 110 and having to buy a $700 skid-plate. This won't be an issue for me since I have eight whole scrub-brush trees on my 35 acres and any rock that I'm driving over needs to be pulled-up and moved out of the way with the hydraulic-thumb anyway. How's that for coming full circle and tying back into the subject of the thread.
(Noting the long response.) Boy, I can yack.
The remainder of this response is crying out to be in another thread and I'm sure this may stir-up a war-of-colors, but ...
CurlyDave said:
Admittedly, I have been so focused on the L39 and trying to make sure it will fit my needs that I have neglected the 110 to a degree. I like the power in the slightly smaller package of the L39. That said, I will make my purchase color-blind, and I know the 110 will do everything that I want without question. So why not go with the 110? Potential cost. A fully-loaded L39 is about ~$40k (with spoiler and racing-stripes), and the equivalent 110 (build your own ... known to be higher) was ~$50k+. Once the boss gives me the financial go-ahead for a machine, I fully intend to do due-diligence and take a look at the 110 price/financing at the dealer in order to get the real story. I just want to have alternatives. There is a JD dealer on the very-very-long-way home from work that I intend to stop at (time-permitting ... yeah right).
The L39 has to be factory-ordered with all of the remote hydraulics as well ... and cannot (will not) be added after the fact. Waiting for the order is not a problem as long as I get what I want ... once I know what I want ... which takes the longest time for me. I suffer from analysis-paralysis at times, and especially on high-dollar items. However, once I make a decision, I have absolutely no regrets.
I've questioned the transmission issue ... especially since I'll be doing some hill-work. My understanding is that GST is not as good as the HST due to the rolling-potential during the brief pause while shifting. I'm not certain I'd be brave enough to be shifting out of the lowest gear or going faster on a slope anyway ... but I have to check it out. The thumb and transmission are my #1 and #2 open-issues on the L39 that I need to be comfortable with prior to making a decision that it is a viable option for me. Some TBN threads have mentioned the exposed hydraulics underneath the 110 and having to buy a $700 skid-plate. This won't be an issue for me since I have eight whole scrub-brush trees on my 35 acres and any rock that I'm driving over needs to be pulled-up and moved out of the way with the hydraulic-thumb anyway. How's that for coming full circle and tying back into the subject of the thread.
(Noting the long response.) Boy, I can yack.
MarkV
Super Member
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- Apr 7, 2000
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- Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
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- 1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39
catvet said:
Yep I agree. There have been numbers of people who have had dealers add remotes and front hydraulics to the L39. Not sure about the backhoe hydraulics so may be something there. WR Long makes a kit for front hydraulics on the L39 that isn't to bad for the home mechanic to add. Could be a job your dealer just doesn't like to do.
MarkV
art
Super Member
The factory assembly of components on tractors is less costly then dealer installed options. Many times the units need to be taken partially apart to assemble the options.
mc faulkner
New member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2008
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- 10
We happen to make a L39 mechanical and hydraulic thumb, and normally we have them in stock The hydraulic thumb is a direct pin thumb (a longer boom pin is provided with the thumb to hold on the bucket, the thumb, and if you have one, a quick coupler). we recommend the hydraulic thumb be installed by a kubota dealer, and the Kubota foot peddle kit, with some modifications, is normally used to control the thumb. The mechanical thumb can be installed by any competent welder - it takes about an hour to an hour and a half to weld on and retouch the paint. These same thumbs also fits the L 48 and we offer a joy stick control for the L 48 hydraulic thumb, as an option. We have been making these thumbs for about 4 years, and sell enough of them to make it worth our while to stock them. Please go to our web site for photos of the hydraulic thumb, and information about us. Maine construction equipment attachments, heavy-duty repairs, custom fabrication
SkyPup
Elite Member
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- North Central, Florida
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- Kubota L-39 GST TLB, Kubota L3130GST, Massey 1030 HST, Kubota ZD-21 ProDecK, Two Euro VW TDIs
yekrut said:
You got that right, I took one look at the JD 110 hydraulic lines and instantly brought our L-39 650 hours ago......
Alt5600
Member
I feel better now ... much much better.
mike69440
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2005
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- Central NH (God's Country)
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- 2005 L39 Kubota, 2020 Polaris 570 Sportsman, 2006 RTV 900, 2019 RTV1100C, 1997 Komatsu PC75UU2E w/ Thumb & Blade, 2013 Mahindra Max28XL Shuttle plus many attachments
My biggest beef with the L39 is it needs to weigh a ton more and have the HP to handle that extra weight. I like the small size and 6' bucket.
I have about 520 hours of hard use. Machine has been overall good to me.
I still use the thumb on the L39 even since buying my little excavator, just not as much.
USA Thumb photo attached.
I have about 520 hours of hard use. Machine has been overall good to me.
I still use the thumb on the L39 even since buying my little excavator, just not as much.
USA Thumb photo attached.
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yekrut
Silver Member
mike69440 said:
Mike - After seeing the type of work you are doing I can certainly understand your beef but from my perspective I wouldn't want another ounce. I'm running through my yard all the time down to my creek bottom, working around timber farm tree's, a 3 acre muck field and a lot of sandy soil. Only reason I'm not out there right now is the grounds to soft from the rain a couple days ago but if it was working I just be creating other work and I got plenty to do. I have the rears half filled and the L39 is right where I want it. I'm at 205 hrs - 2 weeks and I'll of had her a yr. Couldn't be happier with the big bang in a tight package and tons of versatility. Just got a BB and LR to help tiddy things up.
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