L39 Options/Prices

[JimMorrissey]

Gary,

It's not a matter of whether it will start or not . It's a matter of the viscosity of the engine oil and hydro fluid (HST) when you turn the key at -10 and the incremental start-up damage to the engine that occurs with oil that is "thick as molasses"....unless you run some kind of synthetic. It's just a lot easier on the machine in the long haul, IMHO. But that's a whole 'nother discussion area all its own.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Tim,

-The HD bucket is made (from prior pictures) by Woods. It looks rugged and is likely an option. It prob not much more $, but more none the less. The cost was built into my price.

-Figure $1200 for rear hydraulics. That's what I paid for my L3830 and it's a similar setup. Actually, I remember the dealer saying something around "a grand" for controlling two cylinders, not three.

-Lights....Extra. Not sure on the price. ($200-$300 guess)

-Block heater. Not necessary in your neck of the woods.

-Toolbox. Extra. Unknown cost and size. I wanted one, so I ordered it. It's probably too small for what it cost.

-Rubber street pads. Extra. ($200 or so). These attach to the bottom of the stablilizer feet for working on pavement or other stone-like surfaces that you don't want to destroy when digging with the hoe. They're just super hard rubber pads.

-18" bucket is standard. 24" was about $300 more (buckets are not cheap). 24" has substantially more volume, but substantially less cutting ability, due to the increased surface area of the bucket itself. 12" and 24" are a good combo. I'm getting both. 12" for rocks and roots / stumps.

-Quick-attach (hoe)....Unknown until we get our hands on one. Figure a couple of minutes (hopefully less), based on previous posts and likely similar mechanics. -I'd like to be able to snag a bucket without leaving the machine, that the hope anyway. We'll see.

-Front hydraulics. A must IMO. You'll have over 11gpm to run bobcat style attachments (lower flow attachments). I may be wrong, but 11 GPM is a lot more than most any CUT I know of. However, 11gpm is not considered "high flow" and you need to check the flow requirements before you rent or buy anything for it. Most smaller Bobcat attachments will work well on 11 GPM from what I've found.

There are a couple of more things you can order, but not many. For $5,800 you can get the sweet Kubota hydraulic hammer for the front end and do some serious destruction /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Hope that helps somewhat. Unfortunately, a lot of info is unknown right now. I like the mystery, but I want the tractor!

 

[LarryRB]

" Figure a couple of minutes (hopefully less), based on previous posts and likely similar mechanics. -I'd like to be able to snag a bucket without leaving the machine, that the hope anyway. We'll see. "
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I had said it takes less than a minute to change a 12/24 and visa versa. However,. you will leave the machine. It is a mechanical QA and not hydraulic... I suppose you could snap a bucket, roll up tight and under the dipper and still, you"ll have to leave the seat and at least climb off the hoe.. The mechanical QA is of simplest design and use.,.. Still not hydraulic. where one stays in the seat.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Larry,

Yes you did say one minute. I was just airing on the side of caution /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I don't know what type of coupling it will be (new design or existing) so that's why I was hoping they figured out a way to do it with the hoe controls. But, yes it's not a hydraulic connection like a bigger excavator or CAT TLB.

 

[LarryRB]

If you have reason to head towards Hartford CT or thereabouts =, please stop by and check it out.. I'm right on the MA/CT state lines and your more than welcome to stop by, play, I mean work, with the disconnect

 

[GaryE]

Jim,

I agree with you in theory and I do plan on using my block heater but that said, I really doubt there is really going to be all that much thermal transfer between the coolant and the HST fluid @ -10F. In fact I have found in most engines, there is not all that much transfer between the coolant and the motor oil. That is why they make dip stick heaters, but those bring along a whole 'nother set of problems!

With block heaters most of the heat is dissipated out the radiator. There is a lot of heat retention around the cylinder walls, but that is only because of the amount of coolant in contact with them.

I for one don't plan on starting my tractor @ -10 unless I really need to..... As for plowing snow, that is what Diesel F-250 (with block heaters) are for!!!!!

But you are right, this is "'nother discussion area all its own", and it would be interesting to explore.

Gary

 

[coopers]

So can you change from JD to Cat controls? That would be sweet, I can't do JD controls. Either case or cat. It looks like a nice machine, curious to see if the rental company I work for will purchase them. They for some reason skipped out on the L35's. Not sure why.

Blake
WA

 

[JimMorrissey]

Gary,

I had a BX before my 3830 and the block heater made all the difference in the world. It would not start in conditions below 10 without the heater plugged in. The block was warm to the touch after about three hours @ say 0 to 10 degrees. It's possible the larger blocks won't heat as easily, but the heater is also larger. I can't comment on where the heat loss is most extreme, as I've never checked the radiator. There's no pumping action, so I don't see that as being any greater heat dissipater than the block itself. Maybe the warm flow of coolant upward is the cause. Anyway, I will check my 3830 if I plug it in again before it departs to its new owner.