L4310 Enhancements

[MChalkley]

Bird - I had hoped it would work well. I have to say it exceeded my expectations. I haven't had any problem pulling it through anything you should be attempting to till in the first place. It does usually require 4wd, though... But boy does it improve the tilling process! My dad says it sure makes the potato bed better!

MarkC

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>sure makes the potato bed better</font color=blue>

I'll bet it does.

Bird

 

[Keoke]

Hi Mark, a couple maybe helpful of points on your wiring job. The voltage drop spec for home and industrial wiring is to get not less then 95% of input voltage (box) at full demand, to the load. The same applies to automotive applications if your looking at a class job. The MAX voltage drop across any switch or relay is .3 of a volt. This (.3) is not a good number, but the higest number tolerated. All voltage readings shoud be taken with engine running. Since alternator voltage is about 15% higher then battery voltage current flow and voltage drops will also increase proportionaly.
It may be a good idea to put a fuseiable link on your 8 gauge power lead at the take off point. This will protect what looks to be a long hot lead to your switch distribution box. Fuseiable links are sized 4 gauges smaller (#12 gauge for you) then the circuit they protect. They are desinged to melt without flame. These links should not be put in a harness.
The down side of these links is their voltage drop. But, you looking at a very short piece of 12 gauge wire here.
When wiring relays, wire the input (hot wire) to the fix point on the relay and not the moveable point (armature). Relay will work either way but is safer with the B+ on the fix point. Best to have hot conducters fixed rather then flopping. Also it is safer and cheaper to wire relays to switch on a LOW input, that is, having the trigger switch provide a ground instead of B+ to relay coil. This saves on wire since no return path is needed on metal mountings. Also, a short to gnd on trigger lead would simply keep the relay on instead of popping fuses or smoking wires. One last tip, when using in line plug connectors always try to get the female (shrouded) terminal on the hot or source side. This is so when you pull them off for testing the shrouded terminal is less likely to short to gnd then the male (all metal) terminal.
Lot's of luck with your project.

take care,
george

 

[MChalkley]

George - Thanks for the insights. I'm running an 8 gauge positive wire and a 6 gauge negative (they were out of 8 in the right color). There's a fuse at the battery, followed by the relay (wired the way you said). The individual circuits are 14 gauge wire.

MarkC

 

[gordon]

Thanks for posting the pics Mark. Where do you leave that trailer parked???/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I'll dig through the enhancements thread and find out what is plumbed to what. As of right now I've just got the hydraulic toplink. Can't live without it and of course more is better. Will be doing the 50 hr service on the tractor this week.

On the subject of tires, did you have to change the front rims and if so what brand are they. Also, were you able to keep the stock tires on front with the Michelins on the back?
That was a great idea on the tiller. How is your pops garden coming? Get rid of some of that clay yet? Ok I'm getting off subject.

As usual thanks in advance
Gordon

 

[MChalkley]

Gordon - The trailer is parked in the Rottweiler kennel, which should give you an idea of the size of the kennel and how many dogs guard it... /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

The 19.5LR24 rear tires have a larger rolling circumference than the stock tires, so the front tires have to be larger, too. I got the wheels custom made by OTR. I'll dredge up the part # and contact if you need it. I think I gave it to Rich, too. The rear rims are stock, but the rims are the minimum width that will still work.

Unfortunately, as far as Dad's garden is concerned, the red clay is a permanent aspect of it, I'm afraid. If you can till it thoroughly at the right moisture content, though, it'll sure grow a good garden.

A funny story about the tiller modification: My dad has a neighbor in his 70's who's been a farmer all his life. He's got a couple of big (relatively) JD's and a big MF. He always manages to show up when I bring the tractor to Dad's and usually manages to bad mouth my tractor for some reason. Usually, he makes a prediction of some sort about the limited performance of my "toy" tractor, then sneaks off without saying anything when it doesn't happen the way he thought it would. So, when he saw the scarifier teeth on the tiller, he said "Did you bring a chain so I help you pull them teeth through that clay?" I'm careful not to be cocky around this guy because if I am and he's ever right, I'll never hear the end of it, so I just said "Yeah, I made sure I brought plenty of chain, but it's only G-80 3/8", so go easy on it if I need help, ok?" He laughed and we were off on a non-combative start. About the time I made my 2nd loop around the garden plot, I saw him sneaking off across the field back home. That's about as close to a compliment as I'll ever get out of him...

MarkC

 

[JATO_RaT]

Mark, sorry if I'm getting in a little late on the discussion, seems when I get back to this site there are hundreds of new posts and I'm getting to the point of "to much" info to wade through. Curious what the solenoids control. I see you already have your 3 remotes on back. I'm thinking maybe your 4N1. I saw a very slick setup on a new L48 at a nearby Kubota /JD dealer with solenoids all mounted near the joystick (this place has been selling dozens of L48's and I'm begining to see them everywhere on construction sites nearby). This Kubota dealer not only builds their own 4N1 buckets they do some very trick hydraulic work. I noticed the valves tend to be Dinoil brand. Great to see you around, the BX and mini compact talk is getting more and more frequent and as I told you once before I know nothing about them because I don't have much interest in them. Rat...

 

[MChalkley]

Rat - I have 4 switch-controlled solenoids mounted on a plate above the 3-point hitch that control the hydraulic flow from 2 of the 3 remote hydraulic valves (called "triple remote valves" by Kubota) on the tractor. The middle remote valve always controls the top link cylinder. When the switch is off, the other two valves control the side link cylinders. When the switch is on, they control whatever implements I have connected to the hydraulic connector block mounted on the ROPS, like gauge wheels, auger downforce cylinder, etc.

MarkC

 

[JATO_RaT]

So what you have then is a single lever? Flipping the switch allows the use of one lever to control 3 functions. I have an arrangement setup on a Glenmac Harley power rake where the rake ties into the ripper bar remote used on a box scraper. From there I can control on the power rake 3 funtions from the single ripper valve or lever. 1. rake angle,( windrow right, left, etc. ) 2. rake height, and 3. scarifier bar. It has 3 solenoids on the rake using a fairly long set of hoses to tie into the 1 remote on back again, set up typically for the hydraulic rippers on the box. There is also a 2 conducter wire used to control all three solenoids. Rat...

 

[MChalkley]

Rat - Yes, I have a single switch that changes the function of two hydraulic control valve levers. One way, they control the 3-point hitch side-link cylinders - the other way, they control whatever cylinders I have hooked up to the remote valve block quick-connect ports.

MarkC