L4310 won't start - tried everything I can think of

[jfsawatzky]

The issue I have on my hst , the rocker pedal does not always return to neutral… or rather the linkage underneath does not engage/ disengage the switch to allow starting. In the worst case I’ve spent a few minutes taping the pedal forward and reverse to try and find neutral before it will start. It’s another job on my todo list.

 

[bhlack]

Won't the positive cable accomplish the same thing? I guess I'm a bit confused. I already have the positive cable attached at the battery and then to the bolt on the starter [along with red wire that's spliced on the cable connected to the alternator.]

 

[bhlack]

I very much appreciate all the guidance here. Still a bit confused. For clarification... the positive cable and the red wire are both connected to the bolt on what I thought was my starter, but sounds like some of you think it's the solenoid. The photo above shows on the right the large cylindrical device. On the bottom of it is a bolt and my photo shows that I connected the positive cable along with this red wire onto the bolt. Is that not correct?

 

[CliffordK]

Ok, perhaps some clarification.

So, this is a generic starter motor photo. The whole unit is called the starter. The can on top is called the Solenoid. It's purpose is to switch the connection from the big wire from the battery (connection top right) to the starter (connection from factory, bottom, may not always be visible).

That big connector from the battery is also frequently used for an accessory connector such as to the ignition as it has power 100% of the time. Thus the second wire you're seeing.

The connector on the left, in this case is a spade connector that comes back from the ignition. Some starters will just have a bolt on connection that is smaller than the large main connection.

So, you should have, the large connector, positive from battery 100% of the time.
Small connector, or spade connector gets positive from the ignition when the starter switch is turned on.

The starter is grounded through being bolted to the engine which is grounded back to the battery in one fashion or another.

Ok, so what I was saying is that if you jump between the big connection from the battery, and that small spade connector from the ignition, that should make the starter turn, and if your tractor ignition is enabled, it may start your tractor.

That is one of the first checks I like to do because it tells me that the battery and starter are both fine.

An electrical tester may help monitoring where you have power and where you don't.

Some tractors have a number of safety switches for starting it.

• Weight in seat
• Clutch and/or brake depressed.
• PTO turned off

I get annoyed when safety features cause problems with using the tractor,

 

[bhlack]

Gordon, wow! thanks for this diagram and explanation. I only see one cylindrical object so maybe this is the solenoid though mine is the size of the larger one in ur photo. I need to find the spade connection (and wire from ignition to starter). That might be my answer. Thank you again!!

 

[dstig1]

Sometimes the solenoid is inside the housing, from what I have seen, so there is just one housing, but it will look about the same at connections. This is what I was getting at with the tab I circled a page or two back and your mystery wire connector.

But kudos to Clifford for an excellent illustration and explanation!

 

[CliffordK]

Several variations. Some vehicles have the solenoid separate from the starter. My old AMC Hornet had a separate solenoid. I've seen it on other vehicles too, I think.
My little Fiat 500 has a cable pull back to the starter, similar to my JD 440ic that has a rigid bar from the starter to the dash to pull.
I still have to pull my L4310 to a place I can work on it. But, I don't remember anything out of the ordinary with it.

 

[daveinnh]

Lights come one but it doesn't turn over.
Battery is fully charged.
New positive cable installed on battery and starter with the extra wire on the end that slides over the starter bolt.
There's another thin wire that has a plastic type plug but not sure if that just dangles or should be connected to something.
Any suggestions before I call the service people to come pick this monster up? Many thanks in advance.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Load test the battery, as fully charged doesn’t really indicate battery health. Remove it and take it to a battery shop if you don’t have a tester.
Also have you removed the negative cable from the frame, cleaned/sanded the frame and lube with dielectric grease and reinstalled?
These two issues cause most of the weak/no-crank symptoms…
Keep us posted