L4600 adjustable lift arm link

[Rmart30]

Ive seen them on some deeres and longs ... The right side adjustable arm has a crank on it, instead of the type with a jamb nut. Makes it much easier to level implements or angle them when not tools are required. Anyone know if they are available for a L series? I looked all the thru kubota site but couldnt find anything.

 

[Oldoak]

I never saw anything like it for Kubota. Had what you are talking about on my previous JD2350 and sure miss it on my Kubota L4200.

Instead of all the latest and "greatest"? electronics and digital displays, Kubota should devote some engineering to more useful user friendly mechanical systems.

 

[RjCorazza]

The Grand L's used to have a crank adjustment, as my L3410 did. My L4060 does not have one, and I really liked it also. I priced out the parts on Messick's www site last year (for older L3410) and it came in around $600 so I abandoned my quest. Given the outrageous number it's possible I made a mistake looking it up though.

 

[jeff9366]

Originally Posted by djradz
My personal opinion is that the crank that NH has been using now for several years, and the one shown in the TC31 picture, really sucks. SORRY. But under load, even with mine greased to the point that grease is running out everywhere, it just isn't very useable because it is extremely difficult to turn. Take the load off/rest the implement on the ground, and it's not too bad - but what a hassle. My old Ford 1720 had one very similar but much better. I see kubota now uses the exact same design as the 1720, so maybe that's why NH tried something different. Unfortuneately, any of these OEM cranks are in the $250 - $400 range.

No need to apologize here! That is why I asked the question. Some others are saying their older units worked great. I suspect it comes down to the threads on the barrel. The new one I saw on the TC31 had coarse threads and therefore moved quite a bit with no load and just a few cranks. Finer threads would give you a more effective gear-reduction and the ability to lift more of a load with more cranks. My double ended barrel system has very fine threads, but you have to turn it by hand and continuously relieve the load on the 3PH to adjust the height.

In any event, if we're talking about $250 to $400 for a simple crank screw jack, I'll put that toward a TNT and never have to fight with again. Some day.

Thanks for the input.

Brad



FULL THREAD: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...8704-alternative-adjustable-lift-rod-3ph.html

 

[bdhsfz6]

The crank adjustable link arm on my old L3430 worked fine if there wasn't too much load on it. Not sure of the price or if it would fit the L4600 since it has a 15 degree offset pin angle with a straight clevis.



The MX series uses a better style IMO. Its a variation of the nut / rod design with a boxed handle that locks in place. No tools required. I bought a second one so I could use one on each side when I'm not using the T&T kit. I paid around $200 for it. Again, I'm not sure if it would fit a L4600. There is no offset to the pin, its 90 degrees to the rod but there is a 15 degree offset to the clevis. The length / adjustment range could also be an issue.



As jeff9366 suggested, the money is better spent on a T&T kit especially if you already have rear remotes.

 

[Rmart30]

The crank adjustable link arm on my old L3430 worked fine if there wasn't too much load on it. Not sure of the price or if it would fit the L4600 since it has a 15 degree offset pin angle with a straight clevis.

View attachment 511725

The MX series uses a better style IMO. Its a variation of the nut / rod design with a boxed handle that locks in place. No tools required. I bought a second one so I could use one on each side when I'm not using the T&T kit. I paid around $200 for it. Again, I'm not sure if it would fit a L4600. There is no offset to the pin, its 90 degrees to the rod but there is a 15 degree offset to the clevis. The length / adjustment range could also be an issue.

View attachment 511726

As jeff9366 suggested, the money is better spent on a T&T kit especially if you already have rear remotes.

Dont have rear remotes but would like a set of 2 for a hydraulic shank box blade and a 2 cylinder grader blade. Thats been my only regret is I wish i had got them on it when I bought it.

Really cant justify the cost for a T&T kit as I dont do much that I would need it for. 80% of what i do is bush hog work. Box blade ive always used level.... grader blade always been fine with manual angle, offset and tilt.

I could see throwin $100 or so at one of the crank handle arms but for the price of 2 remotes and the T&T kit i dont think would be money wisely spent for my needs.

 

[Coyote machine]

FWIW, Kioti uses a double clevis end crank handle lift arm link with fine threads. I too have T-N-T, and took the crank handle unit and placed it on the left side 3PH arm; (it came on the right side from the factory), but I use the right side now with the hydraulic tilt cylinder.

Keep in mind it has two clevis type ends one at top, one at bottom, no ball/socket type ends, no offsets etc. Again length and total distance of adjustment could be an issue depending on specific setup.

 

[futurustic]

I have one on my 1952 Ford 8N, which works, and one on my Kubota L3710, which doesn't work. Don't know of it's stripped gears or a broken shear pin. The adjustable links are not engineered to be adjusted under load. If they were, they'd use Acme (flat faced) thread, not regular bolt thread.